Last Updated on: 10th July 2024, 11:25 am
Two thousand years after they were built, the pyramids of Teotihuacan remain among the most awe-inspiring and mysterious structures in the Americas. In the following Teotihuacan guide, we’ll be covering the history and significance of each of the main landmarks in detail, along with the best way to navigate this massive (and crowded) archaeological site.
Only an hour’s drive from Mexico City, the ancient ruins of Teotihuacan are an essential day trip. Be sure to check the very end of the article for more information on getting to the ruins as well as where to stay in the capital.
2022 UPDATE: This article was originally published in 2018 based on a 2017 visit. I’ve since revisited the site again in 2022 and found that a number of things have changed. The main difference is that the structures are not currently climbable, meaning that ‘ascending the ancient pyramids of Teotihuacan’ is not an option right now.
Throughout this article, you’ll find photos from both 2017 and 2022, while the text has been altered in some cases to reflect the current situation.
Another major change is the drop off point of the bus from Mexico City, which you can read more about in the ‘Visiting Tips’ section below.
Teotihuacan: A Brief Introduction
Inhabited from around 50 BC up until roughly 650 AD, the ancient ruins of Teotihuacan have continued to captivate the imaginations of every subsequent culture to encounter them. The Toltecs and Aztecs spent a long time exploring the abandoned pyramids, and even incorporated Teotihuacan into their creation myths. But if the builders of Teotihuacan weren’t Aztecs, Toltecs or Mayans, who exactly were they?
To this day, nobody’s really sure. DNA tests carried out on skeletal remains have revealed that many of the city’s inhabitants came from all over Mexico. While the city was strategically located near important obsidian mines, the ancient Teotihuacanos were in possession of jade from Guatemala and even mica from as far away as Brazil. While we don’t know who founded the city, there’s no question that Teotihuacan was a thriving, cosmopolitan melting pot.
Archaeologists have speculated that the city’s original inhabitants escaped a massive volcanic eruption elsewhere in Mexico. But regardless of why it was founded, Teotihuacan grew into a city of roughly 250,000 inhabitants – quite a number for its era.
As little we know about its foundation, the reason for the city’s abandonment remains just as mysterious. It was likely due to a combination of factors, such as fires, bad weather and invasions from neighboring tribes.
As the Teotihuacanos left no writing system – or at least one that’s been deciphered – much of what we know about the culture stems from later civilizations. Numerous later city-states throughout Central Mexico would maintain Teotihuacano mythology, art and architecture. Even without a clear system of writing, the inhabitants of Teotihuacan were able to encode much of their knowledge of the stars, planetary cycles and geometry inside their pyramids and even within the city layout itself.
2023 Visiting Tips
The overall area of the Teotihuacan archaeological site is huge. While possible to see it all in a single day, expect to do a lot of tiring backtracking while also contending with large crowds.
At the time of writing, Teotihuacan is open daily from 8:00-17:00 and costs $90 MXN to enter. This ticket also includes entry to the two on-site museums.
TOURING THE SITE: During my initial visit in 2017, buses from Mexico City would drop visitors off at Gate 1 (near the Quetzalcoatl Pyramid), while buses back to the city would depart from Gate 2, near the Pyramid of the Moon. This was a great system, as it allowed one to efficiently tour the site by starting at one point and finishing at the opposite end.
Unfortunately, that was no longer the case during my second visit in 2022, with both the drop off and pick up points being at Gate 2. So to see everything, you’ll have to do a lot of walking back and forth. But don’t worry – it will be worth it!
If you’d prefer to have a knowledgable guide lead you directly to the highlights, you might want to consider this highly-rated tour from Mexico City.
Be aware that you are not given a map with your entry ticket, and the maps on the signboards around the ruins are both scarce and often lacking in detail. Use the map below which also includes the correct gate numbers for arriving and departing from the ruins.
WHEN TO ARRIVE: The journey from Mexico City (more below) takes about an hour. It’s best to take a bus departing at no later than 9:00 am, which will give you a little bit of time to explore the ruins before the huge crowds arrive.
But what if you’re a photographer hoping to shoot the pyramids with no one in the shot? During my more recent visit, I woke up extra early to be at the ruins right when they opened.
Disappointingly, however, the morning light at Teotihuacan is not really ideal, with both main pyramids looking much better in the afternoon. And even having arrived at 8:00, I was still somehow beaten by TikTok dancers filming a video for half an hour at the pyramid’s base!
Photographers, therefore, may want to try arriving later in the afternoon to shoot the pyramids as the crowds start to dwindle.
FOOD & DRINK: It would be wise to bring snacks and water with you to the ruins. Not far from the archaeological site, however, one can find various restaurants and food stands. Fortunately, visitors are allowed to leave and reenter with the same ticket.
The Citadel & The Pyramid of Quetzalcoatl
As mentioned above, at the time of writing, visitors coming by bus are both dropped off and picked up at Gate 2, not far from the Pyramid of the Moon. To see everything and make it back to the bus stop, one will have to walk across the entire site at least twice.
While you may want to first briefly check out the two largest pyramids upon your arrival, the following Teotihuacan guide will cover the landmarks from south to north, beginning with the Quetzalcoatl Pyramid.
You’ll first enter a wide area which encompasses the pyramid along with a number of other structures, simply referred to as the Citadel. Archaeologists believe that this was the administrative heart of the ancient city. And in fact, it was geographically at Teotihuacan’s very center.
Ancient Mesoamericans often built their cities as a reflection of their vision of the cosmos. The universe, they believed, consisted of four worlds which were divided by five points: the four cardinal directions and a point in the center. And the Citadel is what sits at Teotihuacan’s central point.
First off, in the distance, you’ll notice a large platform in front of the main pyramid itself. While the Pyramid of Quetzalcoatl was built around the year 200 AD, the ‘Adosado Platform,’ as it’s called today, was built a couple centuries later.
It also appears as if much of the original pyramid was covered and built over. Exactly why remains a mystery, but it’s likely due to a shift in power at Teotihuacan. It’s even possible that later rulers wanted to wash themselves clean of the mass killings that took place near the pyramid, as hundreds of bodies of sacrificial victims have been found there.
Before getting to the main pyramid, you’ll notice a few other structures in the area. One of them called Edificio Sur (still under excavation) features a faded old mural on one of its walls. Fascinatingly, it contains symbology related to the five directions of the universe, further emphasizing the central role that the Citadel once played.
Finally arriving at the main pyramid structure, you’ll encounter the intricate carvings the Teotihuacanos made of their central deities. While the serpent with its head surrounded by flower petals (i.e. the ‘plumed serpent’) is undoubtedly the creator god Quetzalcoatl, there’s some debate over who the other face depicts. But it’s widely believed to be Tlaloc, the god of rain and water.
Looking closely, you’ll also notice various serpents and seashells carved throughout the stepped pyramid, indicating the symbolic association the structure once had with water. There was also once a shrine at the top, but it’s long been destroyed and covered over.
Quetzalcoatl
Quetzalcoatl, also known as the ‘Plumed Serpent,’ was the prominent deity worshipped by the Teotihuacanos. He’s mainly associated with creation, as well as science and agriculture.
Other Mesoamerican civilizations, like the Mayans, the Toltecs and the Aztecs, continued to revere this snake/bird hybrid as one of their main deities, and he appears in murals and reliefs throughout Mexico.
The depictions here at Teotihuacan are believed to be among the earliest in existence, though the very first was created by the Olmecs. Remarkably, at this pyramid there may have once been as many as 260 plumed serpent heads, representing a full year of the ancient Mesoamerican sacred calendar.
Tlaloc
Tlaloc was the main god associated with rain and water. And he was also closely associated with war and with warriors.
An important mural discovered in the Teotihuacano compound Tepantitla is called ‘The Paradise of Tlaloc,’ and it depicts people making offerings, among them human sacrifices, to a mountain filled with water.
A tunnel underneath the Pyramid of Quetzalcoatl may have been intended to depict this very scene. Even after the fall of Teotihuacan, Tlaloc continued to maintain his importance in Mexico, as he was one of the main deities worshipped by the Aztecs, who even made an annual pilgrimage to his abode at Mount Tlaloc.
Nearly 1000 years after its construction, the Pyramid of Quetzalcoatl continues to make news headlines to this day. In 2003, a sinkhole began to form in front of the pyramid entrance. Shocked and surprised, archaeologists soon discovered a man-made tunnel which dates back to the founding of the city.
Using laser technology, scientists were also able to create digital maps of the tunnel, revealing its original shape and size.
But what did they find inside? The tunnel leads all the way to a space underneath the center of the pyramid. Underground watermarks indicate the presence of man-made lakes, while various statues and ritual offerings were also discovered underground.
Incredibly, this tunnel is one of the only parts of Teotihuacan to have never been looted.
While nobody knows for certain, it’s likely a representation of Chicomoztoc, a mythological cave from which humanity was said to have first emerged. Or perhaps it symbolized the realm of Tlaloc himself.
Excavations are still happening today, and while not quite ready at the time of my recent 2022 visit, it appears that this new attraction of Teotihuacan, dubbed ‘Proyecto Tlalocan,’ is set to open for visitors in the near future!
The Avenue of the Dead
After a visit to the Citadel, it’s time to backtrack slightly and start walking down Teotihuacan’s main street, the ‘Avenue of the Dead.’ While we don’t know what its original inhabitants called it, that’s what the Aztecs named it during their numerous visits to the abandoned city.
The Avenue of the Dead is a north-south street which originally stretched out to around 4 kilometers long. That means that visitors to the ruins today see only half of it.
Furthermore, there was an additional east-west street that intersected with the Avenue of the Dead near the Citadel, although no visible evidence remains. From here on out, we’ll be heading north, with the Pyramid of the Moon marking the end of the road.
Either side of the Avenue of the Dead contains ruins of former residences as well as temples. These are divided up into three main plazas, simply titled A, B and C. There’s a fair amount to explore on both sides of the avenue, and you can even discover narrow little alleyways well away from the crowds.
With the two largest pyramids in view, you’re probably already eager to get there. You should, however, at least stop to check out the western part of Plaza B.
To the west of the avenue are the ‘Superimposed Buildings,’ named as such due to the numerous superimposed construction levels dating to various phases of occupation.
In the area, you can even find a building complex that visitors are allowed to enter. In the outer portion, you’ll see a small pyramidal base with remnants of original murals on its sides. A path then leads you to an underground tunnel, where you’ll find remnants of ancient staircases.
While partially subterranean today, all these structures would’ve originally been built at ground level.
A bit further north, also to the west of the main avenue, are the ruins of a small temple with carved serpent heads at its base. This area was likely built around the same time as the Pyramid of Quetzalcoatl, and it’s an interesting glimpse into how much activity was going on at Teotihuacan outside of the main pyramids.
The Pyramid of the Sun
After a while of walking down the avenue, you’ll eventually reach the base of the Pyramid of the Sun, Mexico’s tallest. It stands at 75m high, with a base of around 225 m on each side, making it one of the largest pyramids in the world (in Mexico, only Cholula’s Great Pyramid is bigger in volume).
Like many other parts of Teotihuacan, this pyramid’s name was chosen by the Aztecs. As the pyramid faces west, it was a prime location for viewing sunsets.
It’s also lined up perfectly with two sunsets a year, which happen to be 260 days apart – the exact length of the ancient Mesoamerican calendar year.
As mentioned above, the Pyramid of the Sun used to be climbable for years. But since the start of the coronavirus pandemic, and until now in 2023, climbing has been off-limits. Hopefully, it will be accessible again in the not-too-distant future.
Should you happen to visit after the pyramid reopens, you’ll find that the climb to the top is tiring, but not that steep or especially difficult overall. And the views from the top are well worth it.
As with the Pyramid of Quetzalcoatl, the Pyramid of the Sun sits right on top of an underground cavern. In this case, it’s a natural cave that man-made tunnels were added to later. And numerous ritual offerings, like precious gemstones and animal bones, have been found underneath.
As stunning as the pyramid is to look at from the outside, the most significant rituals that took place here may have been those that happened underground.
Later on, you’ll see how when viewed from the Pyramid of the Moon, this pyramid greatly resembles the mountain behind it in the distance. That fact, combined with its position over a symbolically important cave, has led some to believe that the Pyramid of the Sun was the first major structure built in the city.
But as with many aspects of Teotihuacan, this is still up for debate.
The Teotihuacan Site Museum
Southeast of the Pyramid of the Sun is the Teotihuacan Site Museum, which is worth at least an hour of your time. In addition to a comprehensive historical overview, the museum contains everything from artifacts to a large-scale model of the site to sacrificial remains. There’s no additional charge for entry.
The Avenue of the Dead (Cont.)
Next, head back to the Avenue of the Dead, walking northward in the direction of the Pyramid of the Moon. But there’s still plenty more to explore on either side of the road.
As you get closer to the Pyramid of the Moon, don’t miss the mural of the puma on the Avenue’s right-hand side. The painting reminds visitors that Teotihuacan was actually once a colorful and vibrant-looking city. Not everything appeared as grey stone as we see it today.
A great many more murals, in fact, have been preserved which are now on display at the fantastic Mural Museum just outside Gate 3 (see more below).
The Pyramid of the Moon
The Pyramid of the Moon represents the feminine aspects of nature and the divine – fertility, water and of course, the moon. Displayed out in front of the pyramid is the ‘Goddess of Water,’ or Chalchiutlicue sculpture. We can be pretty sure, then, that the goddess was worshipped either at the pyramid or in the plaza in front of it. Notably, Chalchiutlicue is the female aspect, or perhaps consort, of Tlaloc.
Nearby the statue is a structure known as the ‘Teotihuacan cross,’ or Quincunce. It’s not exactly clear what this structure itself was used for, but it’s an obvious representation of the Teotihucanos’ cosmological vision.
The structure is best viewed from atop the pyramid (sadly not possible as of 2023).
While fully off-limits now, this pyramid could never be climbed all the way to the top like the Pyramid of the Sun. Visitors could, however, make it about halfway.
Also currently off-limits are the smaller platforms at the end of the Avenue of the Dead, which ordinarily provide excellent views of both main pyramids.
You’ll also notice that there are still lots of structures completely covered in grass, appearing to be nothing more than mounds. It will be interesting to see if these too get excavated in the near future.
The Palace of Quetzalpoatl
Backtracking south a little bit, head toward Gate 3 and you’ll pass by the Palace of Quetzalpoatl on your right. This is an intricately designed structure that was clearly designed for someone important.
The central room contains well-preserved columns that feature carvings of what appears to be a mythical ‘Plumed Butterfly’ being. However, this may not really be the case, and the carvings may actually depict an owl instead.
This is one of the best places to see Teotihucano artwork in its original setting, as the main room is covered in murals and reliefs. Some of the other rooms have obviously been renovated or reconstructed, but the palace is still well worth a walk-through to get a feel for how the ancient elite once lived.
Nearby, you’ll also encounter a labyrinth of former residences, as well as the open-air Palace of the Jaguars. But that’s not all. The same complex also features the Temple of the Feathered Conches, where you can find more murals and carvings, but this time in an enclosed setting. (Unfortunately, these additional buildings were closed in 2022).
The Mural Museum
The mural museum is an absolute must-visit when visiting Teotihuacan. Oddly enough, though, there’s almost no mention of it on-site. While technically outside of the official archaeological site, present your ticket for free entry, while you can also use the same ticket to re-enter the main area.
Get there by exiting Gate 3 and turning right (see map above). Walk along the road for a few minutes and you should see a sign for it on the right-hand side.
As the name suggests, the museum houses murals discovered throughout Teotihuacan. But what’s surprising is both the sheer amount of murals as well as their excellent condition. It’s much different from what you would expect after having just seen the faded murals at the ruins.
The museum provides a whole new perspective on what the pyramids might’ve looked like during their prime. It also contains convenient maps next to each piece, revealing where they were found. A whole lot of them, it seems, were discovered near some of the sub-structures in front of the Pyramid of the Sun.
Just outside the museum, you can see the foundations of additional ancient buildings, revealing how far out the original metropolis once extended.
Mathematical Mysteries
Above, we briefly went over how the city of Teotihuacan was divided into four sections split by two large intersecting avenues (one of them being the Avenue of the Dead), with their center at the Citadel. Many archaeologists believe that this perfectly symmetrical layout symbolized the inhabitants’ vision of the cosmos.
But the positions of the Pyramid of the Sun and Moon are anything but symmetrical. Why?
The layout of Teotihuacan’s three main pyramids continues to baffle researchers to this day. Putting outlandish theories like prehistoric giants or visiting aliens aside for a moment, there are definitely more than a few strange coincidences going on here.
When looked at from the sky, the three pyramids form a shape very reminiscent of the stars of Orion. Notably, according to some researchers, the positions of the pyramids of Giza also mirror the same constellation.
Furthermore, the Pyramid of the Sun is aligned in such a way that it faces two sunsets which are exactly 260 days apart – the length of the Mesoamerican sacred calendar year. It’s even speculated that the size difference of the two larger pyramids (40%) points to other sacred numbers in the Teotihuacanos’ system of measuring time!
Considering how the city was built over a period of at least a couple hundred years, this knowledge had to be passed down over many generations. And while Teotihuacan may be no more, its builders have surely left behind more important knowledge that we have yet to discover.
If you’re interested in learning more, this fascinating article is one of many on the subject.
Additional Info
Teotihuacan can be easily reached from Mexico City by bus.
First, you need to head to the bus station called Autobuses del Norte. This can be reached by subway, public city bus or Uber. The ticket booth for Teotihuacan is by Parada 8, which is nearly all the way at the end. If you see a sign that says ‘Las Piramides,’ this will be referring to Teotihuacan.
Buses leave every 30 minutes and the ride takes about 1 hour. A one-way ticket costs around $50 pesos, and you have the option of buying a round-trip ticket.
The last bus back to Mexico City supposedly departs as late as 19:00, but the archaeological zone itself closes at 17:00.
Mexico City is an incredibly massive city of nearly 10 million people. And its various tourist attractions are scattered throughout, making choosing where to stay a challenge. But here are a few suggestions to help you decide:
Centro Histórico
As the name suggests, this is the historical part of the city built by the Spanish. But they constructed it over the former Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan, even filling in the lake around it. As such, it’s the district where you’re going to find most the significant landmarks from both the colonial and pre-Hispanic era.
Just keep in mind that at the time of writing, Line 1 of the subway which runs through this area is down for maintenance.
A highly-rated high-end hotel here is Círculo Mexicano, while popular mid-range options include Hotel Metropol and Hotel Marlowe.
Those on a stricter budget, meanwhile should consider Hotel Sonno Plaza Allende. Another good budget option is Hotel Costazul, a no-frills hotel which is a fairly easy walk to the Zocalo and Templo Mayor.
Roma/Condesa
The Roma and Condesa neighborhoods, which are adjacent to one another, are widely considered Mexico City’s hippest districts. They’re also hugely popular with foreigners, so it may be a good place to stay if you’re not comfortable speaking Spanish.
On the higher end, Roso Guest House is conveniently located and includes free breakfast.
Stanza Hotel and Hotel Marbella are highly-rated mid-range options, while those on a budget should consider Anys Hostal.
Other popular neighborhoods include Coyoacán, home to the Frida Kahlo Museum, and just an interesting place to wander around in general. But while worth visiting, it’s not a very convenient base from which to explore the rest of the city.
If you plan on taking a lot of day trips, another good option is to stay near one of the city’s main bus stations. The problem is, however, that the city has no less than FOUR main stations – to the west, north, east and south of the center.
While there’s no perfect option, you could get a head start on visiting Teotihuacan by staying somewhere near the northern station (Autobuses del Norte).
The best way to get to Mexico City from abroad would be to fly. The main Benito Juarez International Airport services flights from all around the world.
Coming from within Mexico, many budget airlines service Toluca International Airport instead. Some cheaper flights from abroad also go to the nearby city of Puebla.
Of course, the capital is reachable from just about everywhere in the country by bus. Just be sure to choose the correct bus terminal (of which there are four) when buying your ticket.
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