Last Updated on: 4th August 2024, 11:28 pm
Morelia, the capital of the state of Michoacán, is easily among Mexico’s most beautiful cities. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991, Morelia has a distinctive and unified look thanks to the bare Cantera stone used in most of its buildings. Be that as it may, it get very few foreign tourists, making it ideal for travelers who like get off the beaten path. In this Morelia guide, we’ll cover what you can see and do in the City of Pink Stone in a single day.
Also be sure to check the end of the guide for information on transport and accommodation.
But first, a bit of history:
Throughout the colonial period, the city was known as Valladolid (not to be confused with the popular town in Yucatán state). But before the arrival of the Spanish, the general region of what’s now Michoacán state had long been home to various indigenous tribes, mainly the Purépecha.
The region was then part of the mighty Tarascan Empire, whose prominent cities were Tzintzuntzan and Patzcuaro. The Tarascans, in fact, were nearly as powerful as the Aztecs.
And they might have one day defeated the Aztecs, had they not succumbed to diseases introduced by the Spanish and then conquered by them.
What’s now the city of Morelia was first established in 1541 as a Spanish settlement. It gradually became larger and more important than then-capital Patzcuaro, eventually becoming the new capital of Michoacán.
The city’s current moniker is based off of José María Morelos, an important War of Independence hero who was born in the city (then Valladolid). As we’ll cover below, his childhood home is one of the city’s main attractions.
(To avoid confusion, we’ll be referring to the city solely as Morelia from now on, even when discussing the colonial era.)
Most of Morelia’s current constructions were built in the 17th century and remain in an excellent state of preservation. While many large Mexican cities have historical centers, none look and feel quite like Morelia’s.
The Michoacán Regional Museum
History lovers may want to start their day at the Michoacán Regional Museum, situated next to Morelia’s main square, Plaza de Armas. It’s a great way to get acquainted with the pre-Hispanic past of Michoacán along with Morelia’s colonial era.
Just be forewarned – like many museums of this type in Mexico, all signage is in Spanish only. Also be sure not to come on a Monday when the museum is closed.
On the ground floor of the museum, you’ll find numerous artifacts from the Purépecha, the prominent ethnic group of the Michoacán region. Many inhabitants of the state still identify themselves as Purépecha to this day.
And just before the arrival of the Spanish, they controlled the mighty Tarascan Empire – the only kingdom which the Aztecs were never able to dominate.
In addition to a large collection of pre-Hispanic ceramics and figurines, you’ll also find a replica of a Toltec-inspired chac mool sculpture. It indicates an ancient Toltec influence over the region, though this is pretty much our only clue.
The original sculpture now sits in Mexico City.
On the upper floor, you’ll find numerous artifacts from the colonial era. You’ll also learn about the founding of Morelia and its rivalry with Patzcuaro, the largest city in the state at the time.
As we know, Morelia would eventually overtake it to become the new capital, upon which many of the city’s most beautiful and important buildings were commissioned.
Morelia Cathedral
On the other side of Plaza de Armas is Morelia Cathedral, arguably the city’s most impressive and significant structure. Construction began on the three-nave cathedral in 1640, but it wouldn’t be finished until 1744, ultimately replacing the city’s original.
It was first designed by an Italian architect named Vicente Barroso de la Escayola. But later in the 18th century, the design would be modified by Joseph de Medina, who’d previously worked on the Cathedral of Puebla. It was he who would implement the cathedral’s massive 66 m-high towers.
After Morelia was declared the new state capital, Morelia Cathedral was intended to become the centerpiece of the city’s urban layout. And it was only after its design was finalized that the construction of many of the city’s other notable landmarks would begin.
Centro Cultural Clavijero
Formerly known as the Palacio Clavijero from the 17th-18th centuries, the Centro Cultural Clavijero is one of this Morelia guide’s must-visit destinations (closed Mondays). But what exactly is it?
The building complex was once home to the Jesuit school of St. Francis Xavier, and it maintains its massive central patio. But today, the individual rooms aren’t used for religious purposes, but to house modern art exhibits.
Fortunately, the art on display here is not bad. But even if the halls were empty, the museum would still be worth a visit for its stunning architecture.
Just around the corner, don’t miss the Biblioteca Publica Universitaria, a beautiful library on which construction began in the year 1660.
Casa Natal de Morelos
No visit to Morelia is complete without seeing the Casa Natal de Morelos (open daily). But while José María Morelos is well-known to every Mexican, not every foreign tourist is going to be familiar with the events of Mexico’s independence from Spain.
Morelos is best-known for taking over the independence movement after the assassination of Miguel Hidalgo in 1811. As with Hidalgo, Morelos was a Catholic priest.
And he was also there for Hidalgo’s ‘Cry of Dolores,’ which took place in the Guanajuato town of the same name, and which kickstarted the war for independence. (As an interesting side note, both Hidalgo and Morelos happened to be descendants of Hernán Cortés.)
Despite not having a military background, Morelos would lead successful campaigns to take cities like Acapulco and Cuautla. But after forming a congress and drafting a new constitution, he too would ultimately be captured by the Spanish and executed in 1815.
The museum, situated in the Morelos family home, contains various rooms with information on the national hero’s life. One room is that in which Morelos was born, while another details his youth and time as a priest.
You’ll also learn about his time as an insurgent – if you understand Spanish, that is. As with many museums in Mexico, the Casa de Morelos contains no English signage.
Nevertheless, it’s worth a quick visit due to its historical significance. You’ll also find a pleasant garden with a bust of Morelos, along with a replica of the bell struck for the Cry of Dolores.
Colonial Art Museum
While far from being the most essential museum in this Morelia Guide, the Colonial Art Museum is conveniently located in the center and can be toured rather quickly.
As the name suggests, you’ll find a collection of artwork from the colonial era spread across five rooms. While most of the art is religious in nature, you’ll even find models of Cristopher Columbus’s ships.
The museum is open daily.
More Around the Center
Morelia has no shortage of historic churches and peaceful plazas. Yet another of the city’s beautiful churches is the 16th-century Ex-Convento del Carmen (Casa de la Cultura de Morelia).
As the current name suggests, it’s no longer an active monastery, but is used as a cultural space and contemporary art exhibit, similar to the Centro Cultural Clavijero mentioned above.
The gates were locked during my visit, but it was still nice to look at from the outside. Just beside it is the tranquil Plaza del Carmen which can be a good place to rest your legs for a while.
Just nearby is the imposing Parroquia de San José, on which construction began in the 18th century. Similar to Morelia Cathedral, it’s recognizable for its two imposing bell towers.
Another huge church in the center is Templo de San Francisco de Asis, which was constructed between 1536-1610. It faces a spacious plaza, and if one were to pass it before seeing Morelia Cathedral, it could easily be mistaken for the city’s main church.
There are still other churches to check out, such as Templo de las Monjas, Rectoría de San Agustín, Templo Capuchinas, and more.
But if you only have a day in Morelia, it may be wise to start walking east, where you’ll find a plethora of additional unique landmarks.
Eastern Morelia
What we’re calling ‘eastern Morelia’ is still part of the historical center and walkable from the locations mentioned in the guide above. The Fuente de las Tarascas, for example, is just a 15-minute walk from Morelia Cathedral.
The iconic fountain, as the name suggests, is an homage to the mighty Tarascan Empire that once controlled these lands.
The current statue was placed here in the 1960s. But it’s only a reproduction. Oddly, the first version of the fountain mysteriously disappeared in 1940!
The fountain sits beside Plaza Villalongín, which is home to yet another elegant fountain and statue. And as you can see, the plaza is surrounded by parts of the city’s ancient aqueduct.
The city’s very first aqueduct was installed back in 1549. The portion of the aqueduct that one can see today, however, was built between 1785 and 1789, and it stretches out to around 2 km.
Bringing water from a source around 10 km away, it served the city all the way up until 1910, until it was replaced with a more modern metal piping system.
Just east of Plaza Villalongín is Callejón del Romance. While the alley dates back to the 19th century, it was given its current moniker in 1965 after a poem called ‘Romance of My City’ by Lucas Ortiz. Walking down it, you’ll find numerous small plazas and alleyways to explore.
And eventually, you will come face to face with the aqueduct again. Walking alongside it, you’ll find one of Morelia’s most pleasant pedestrian streets, lined with well-manicured gardens in addition to restaurants and coffee shops.
While in eastern Morelia, don’t miss the Santuario de la Virgen de Guadalupe, a baroque church built in the early 18th century. While rather ordinary looking from the outside, the blue and gold interior decorations, which were added in 1915, are stunning.
Also be sure to check out the paintings on the walls. They depict Catholic priests converting the local indigenous tribes. One painting depicts a priest intervening to stop a human sacrifice, while a toppled-over idol is replaced with a cross in the background.
Near the end of your walking tour through east Morelia, you’ll encounter the San Diego ‘Plaza del Caballito,’ which features an impressive statue of José María Morelos on a horse.
If time permits, just nearby is the city’s Contemporary Art Museum, home to various exhibits spread across two floors.
Additional Info
Morelia is a large city with a gorgeous historical center. And the center is likely where most people will choose to stay.
One of the highest-rated high end hotels is NaNa Vida Hotel Morelia. A good mid-range option near the main attractions, meanwhile, is Vista Express Morelia.
Morelia also has plenty of budget options, like Casa Aura, or numerous places on Airbnb.
Considering how the city is also a good base for day trips (such as Tzintzuntzan and Patzcuaro), and how the bus station is quite a distance from the center, I opted to stay within walking distance of the station.
While being close to the station saved me a lot of time overall and I have no regrets, I wouldn’t recommend most travelers stay in that area.
As you can tell from the above Morelia guide, central Morelia is arguably one of the most beautiful cities in Mexico. But the city’s outskirts feel like another dimension. While I didn’t have any issues and everyone in the neighborhood I stayed in was friendly, ‘apocalyptic’ was the first word that came to mind as I explored the area.
As a metropolitan area of nearly a million people, Morelia is fairly easy to reach. Many major cities in central and western Mexico will have direct buses there.
One exception at the time of writing, however, is Guanajuato. While direct buses apparently existed in the past, visitors now have to transfer in the city of Irapuato.
The main bus terminal is quite a distance from the historical center. Fortunately, Uber works in the city, which is pretty much always a better option than local taxis, as you don’t have to haggle or worry about potential scams.
Morelia also has its own airport with connections to major cities around the country as well as several destinations in the US.
Want to see most of the locations featured in the Morelia guide above, but as part of an affordable tour?
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