Last Updated on: 17th March 2024, 10:25 pm
San Miguel de Allende may be one of Mexico’s most-visited towns these days, but it’s also one of its most divisive. But wherever your feelings lie, there’s no denying that San Miguel is a good base for some interesting day trips – among them the Sanctuary of Atotonilco and the Magic Town of Dolores Hidalgo.
The Sanctuary of Atotonilco is known for its stunning murals, making it one of Mexico’s most beautiful and unique churches. Nearby Dolores Hidalgo, meanwhile, is where the Mexican fight for independence was kickstarted in the year 1811.
After a detailed description of both locations, be sure to check the end of the article for info on reaching them on the same day via public transport.
Visiting the Sanctuary of Atotonilco
The Sanctuary of Atotonilco was established in the 18th century by Father Luis Felipe de Alfaro, who’s said to have been compelled to build it following a vision of Jesus.
But the church is mainly known for its interior frescoes, most of which were painted by Antonio Martínez de Pocasangre. Another artist named José María Barajas also contributed to the project, and in total, the paintings took four decades to complete.
Together with the entire nearby town of San Miguel de Allende, the Sanctuary of Atotonilco was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2007. Some, in fact, even call it Mexico’s Sistine Chapel. And stepping inside, it’s not hard to see why.
Just about every square inch of the church’s interior has been covered in intricate artwork, a style which, given the influence of indigenous art, could be described as ‘Mexican folk baroque.’
The art, however, was also heavily influenced by Flemish painting from Belgium, some examples of which had been brought over by the Spanish.
As stunning as the art itself is, the subject matter is rather predictable, focusing on various events from the life of Jesus. The main nave, for example, features imagery of Jesus and his Apostles, and ultimately, his death.
The entrance area, meanwhile, features scenes of the Last Judgement. And above the main altar, various scenes depict things like the betrayal, crucifixion and resurrection of Jesus.
Notably, this beautiful church played a significant role in the Mexican fight for independence. Early on in the war, Miguel Hidalgo (more below) gathered his troops here, during which he took a pennant adorned with the image of the Virgin of Guadalupe.
And this pennant from the the Sanctuary of Atotonilco is regarded as the very first flag of an independent Mexico.
It’s recommended that you arrive relatively early in the morning so you get a chance to take in the art in peace. Atotonilco is a popular stop on local tours which start showing up by late morning. As the church is not very big, it can quickly start to feel cramped.
Note that while entry to the main church is free, there’s an additional chapel that you shouldn’t miss, and it only costs about $15 MXN.
During my visit, it was still being cleaned, so I was told to come back in about thirty minutes. Fortunately, there’s a delicious gordita stand just around the corner from the main church, so I had some breakfast before returning.
Capilla del Santo Sepulcro
As mentioned, the Capilla del Santo Sepulcro requires a small extra fee to enter, but it’s well worth it. The chapel was built between 1759 and 1763 and contains even more vivid murals to admire.
The theme matter largely revolves around the crucifixion and resurrection of Jesus. And in addition to the paintings, you’ll find sculptures at the main altar and off to the sides depicting Jesus’ painful death.
Aside from the Capilla del Santo Sepulcro, the Sanctuary of Atotonilco contains several other additional chapels, though all were closed at the time of my visit.
If you’re wondering how these murals appear to be in such excellent condition, that’s largely thanks to extensive renovations carried out in 1996.
The tiny town of Atotonilco also happens to be home to some thermal springs, located to the south of the church. Whether you want to take a dip in the water or not, that’s the direction you should head to catch a bus to our next destination, Dolores Hidalgo.
Visiting Dolores Hidalgo
Before this outing, I hadn’t been able to come across any information online about visiting both Atotonilco and Dolores Hidalgo on the same day via public transport. Fortunately, it is indeed possible by simply heading to the nearest highway and waiting for a bus (learn more below).
But why visit Dolores Hidalgo? To be frank, while it has been designated a Pueblo Mágico (Magic Town), it doesn’t have a whole lot to offer the average foreign tourist. But for Mexicans, it’s widely recognized as one of the most important locations in their fight for independence from Spain.
In the center of town stands the beautiful Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores. And it’s here that Father Miguel Hidalgo, a native of Dolores, rang the church bell on the morning of September 16, 1810.
But while Hidalgo was indeed a Catholic priest, this was no ordinary ringing of the bell. Rather, it was an official call to arms against the Spanish, and the act has since been known as the Cry of Dolores, or the Grito de Dolores.
Hidalgo was born into a wealthy family and eventually became a priest. Over time, he grew discontent with the way the Spanish colonial government treated the natives, and so he met with other likeminded individuals to stage a revolution.
But he would never live to see a fully independent Mexico, as he was captured by the Spanish and executed in 1811. Mexico, of course, would gain independence from Spain a decade later. And to this day, Miguel Hidalgo is still recognized as the ‘Father of Mexican Independence.’
As for things to see and do in Dolores Hidalgo, the main attraction would be the Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores mentioned above. Beyond that, there are a few museums to check out, such as the Museo del Bicentenario.
On the first floor, you’ll find a replica of the bell struck for the Cry of Dolores. The second floor, meanwhile, features things like murals and an exhibit of quirky vintage film posters (at least at the time of my visit).
Nearby the town’s main square, meanwhile, are historical buildings like the Casa de Visitas, an 18th-century baroque structure.
Those with an interest in Mexican history should also be sure to check out the Museo de la Independencia. As one would expect, you’ll find a detailed overview of Mexico’s fight for independence – albeit in Spanish only.
The town is also home to the Museo de Sitio Casa de Hidalgo, situated in Miguel Hidalgo’s childhood home. The museum, however, is closed both Mondays and Tuesdays, and it wasn’t open during my visit.
There’s yet another house museum in Dolores Hidalgo to check out, but it has nothing to do with the struggle for Mexican independence.
The Casa Museo de José Alfredo Jiménez is dedicated to a famous Mexican singer who lived from 1926-1973, and who was one of the prominent singers of Mexican ranchero music. I had no idea who he was, and most foreign visitors probably won’t either.
Museums and history aside, Dolores Hidalgo also happens to be famous for its ice cream.
Additional Info
If you’re not into getting around by public transport, both Atotonilco and Dolores Hidalgo can be reached by tour. But if you’re looking to save money, using public buses from San Miguel de Allende is entirely possible.
Atotonilco is just about a twenty-minute ride away from San Miguel. With that in mind, you should be able to get an Uber for a cheap price, but below we’ll be covering how to do everything via public transport.
To find the bus, head to the street called Calz de la Luz, located to the north of the center. Near the intersection with Animas Street, you should see numerous buses lined up.
The bus you need to take is number 7 and buses should depart hourly at the start of each hour. In my case, the bus didn’t appear until just before departure, so don’t worry if you don’t see bus 7 at first.
When finished with the Sanctuary of Atotonilco, walk about 15-20 minutes south of the church, past the local spas. You should eventually reach the main highway, where you’ll want to carefully cross the road.
The highway contains occasional signs indicating where the bus stops are. But if you’re walking from north to south, you’ll be facing the backs of the signs. Be sure to look behind you to check that you did indeed encounter a bus stop, and then simply wait.
In my case, a bus appeared only after a few minutes. It appears that several different companies run this route.
Dolores Hidalgo has a proper bus station, so when finished there, simply return and catch the next bus back to San Miguel de Allende.
San Miguel de Allende offers a wide range of accommodation options. While many of them would be considered expensive and high-end by Mexican standards, the town does indeed have some budget-friendly options as well.
Some of the highest-rated luxury options include La Valise San Miguel de Allende and L’Ôtel at Dôce18 Concept House, both close to the center.
For around $50 USD per night, Suites Santo Domingo is another popular choice.
And if you’re looking for something even cheaper, you can find numerous affordable Airbnbs within walking distance from the center – just be ready for a potentially steep climb!
The best way to reach San Miguel de Allende is by bus.
From Mexico City, there are several bus companies that operate regular routes to San Miguel from TAPO, with the ride lasting around 4-5 hours.
From Guanajuato, the journey takes about 2-3 hours, from León 2-3 hours, from Querétaro just about 90 minutes, and from Morelia 3-4 hours.
While San Miguel is indeed a popular tourist destination, it’s still a small town, so there aren’t as many buses running per day on certain routes as one might think. Therefore, it’s always a good idea to confirm schedules in advance, either at the bus station or online.
For those coming from further away, the nearest airports are in León or Querétaro, from which you’ll need to take a bus or hire a driver/rent a car.