Last Updated on: 21st January 2024, 12:12 am
Located in the state of Tlaxcala, the sister sites of Cacaxtla and Xochitécatl are an easy day trip from Puebla. Visitors to the region with the slightest interest in Mesoamerican art or history shouldn’t miss the Cacaxtla murals, some of the best-preserved pre-Hispanic paintings in Mexico.
The only other paintings on this level would be those of Bonampak, Chiapas on the other side of the country. Fascinatingly, despite being located in Central Mexico, Cacaxtla’s frescoes could also be considered Mayan.
While just a stone’s throw away from Cacaxtla, Xochitécatl is centuries older. And its hilltop pyramids long played a role in local fertility rites.
Following comprehensive guides to both archaeological sites, you can learn more about reaching Cacaxtla and Xochitécatl at the very end of the article.
A Brief History of Xochitécatl & Cacaxtla
Though Xochitécatl and Cacaxtla are situated right next to each other, they don’t share the same history. Xochitécatl is the older of the two sites by far, having been founded atop an extinct volcano around 300 BC. Over the next several centuries, numerous temples and pyramids were constructed that survive to this day.
Originally inhabited by the Otomi and Nahua peoples, Xochitécatl was long a prominent center of goddess worship. But due to an eruption of nearby Popocatepetl volcano around the year 200, the site remained abandoned for centuries.
But things turned around once the Olmeca-Xicallanca took over the region around the 7th century and began constructing Cacaxtla. Xochitécatl then became Cacaxtla’s sister city and the new rulers refurbished many of the old monuments.
But who exactly were the Olmeca-Xicallanca? Despite their name, they weren’t Olmecs, but a group of Mayan traders who controlled much of Central Mexico after the fall of Teotihuacan.
In addition to Cacaxtla, they also established Xochicalco in Morelos while taking control of prosperous cities like Cantona and Cholula. Remarkably, centuries before the Toltecs of Central Mexico would influence Mayan cities like Chichén Itzá, it was the Mayans who established bases in Central Mexico.
After the Olmeca-Xicallanca takeover of the Puebla-Tlaxcala Valley, Cacaxtla and Xochitécatl essentially functioned as one city, reaching their apogees from around 650-900. They thrived on trade as well as tributes from their conquered neighbors.
While Xochitécatl was accessible to everyone who wished to partake in the fertility rites, Cacaxtla was exclusively reserved for the elite. And the rulers left behind the exquisite Cacaxtla murals that can still be enjoyed by visitors today.
At some point around the year 1000, both sites were abandoned due to yet another eruption of Popocatepetl. Interestingly, Cacaxtla was deliberately buried, indicating that the rulers intended to return at some point. But they never did.
Even after its abandonment, locals remained aware of Cacaxtla’s existence, and a 16th-century Spaniard named Diego Muñoz Camargo wrote about it in a historical text. But nobody would uncover the mound until 1940, with no serious excavations taking place until as recently as 1975.
Visiting the Cacaxtla Murals
Visitors approaching the site will first walk past the Cacaxtla Museum. And if you plan on visiting Xochitécatl after Cacaxtla, it’s best to visit the Cacaxtla Museum first. But we’ll be covering the contents of the museum further below.
Cacaxtla’s visiting experience isn’t quite like other archaeological sites in Mexico. First of all, only the main ceremonial center has been excavated. And to protect Cacaxtla’s murals, a large modern roof has been built over it.
While it’s great that the murals are being protected, it would’ve been nice if the massive roof were a bit less ugly and distracting.
Approaching the ruins, you’ll pass by a pyramid and unexcavated mound just in front of the main structure. While inaccessible, they hint that there was once a lot more to ancient Cacaxtla than what we see today.
Officially known as the ‘Gran Basamento,’ or the Great Foundation, the main structure was built over the course of three centuries and underwent no less than nine construction phases.
Much of the complex was built of adobe and covered in limestone plaster, while the numerous buildings on top were originally flat-roofed.
After taking in the views from the bottom, a modern wooden path and staircase leads visitors to the top of the structure. Unlike at other ruins, touring Cacaxtla requires walking along a predetermined route.
Near the beginning, you’ll pass by a former storage area for grain – likely corn.
Reaching the top, you’ll encounter structures like the Palace, comprised of a myriad of rooms and courtyards. It’s fascinating to think that for a few centuries, these rooms were once home to one of the most powerful families in all of Mesoamerica.
Disturbingly, archaeologists have found the remains of children in one of the courtyards, likely placed as ritual offerings.
Over to your right, meanwhile, is the Gran Basamento’s centerpiece, the North Plaza. This was where events like religious ceremonies and celebrations would take place, while it also likely served as a gathering space on ordinary days.
One side of the plaza is flanked by some of the famous Cacaxtla murals, but more on that later.
In the southwest corner of the Gran Basamento is the Temple of Venus. And it’s here that you’ll get your first glimpse of Cacaxtla’s murals – albeit only along a single pillar.
The pointed shape covering the blue figure’s belly is believed to be a depiction of Venus, a highly important planet in Mesoamerican astronomy and religion.
Note how the man also has a prominent scorpion tail. The whole scene likely represented an important date or astronomical phenomenon, and the Temple of Venus was surely at the heart of important ceremonies held by the Cacaxtla elite.
Moving on, you’ll pass by the remnants of The Red Temple which also features a well-preserved mural.
The figure to the right may have represented someone from a town under Cacaxtla’s dominion who came to present tribute to the nobles. Or perhaps he was just a merchant.
Of special note is the large bag behind him. Known as a cacaxtle, these were a particular type of merchant bag in pre-Hispanic times. Cacaxtla, in fact, means ‘Place of the Cacaxtles.’
Moving along the path, look down to see a unique lattice fence. Archaeologists claim the design is completely unique in all of Mesoamerica. It was likely created around the same time as the Temple of Venus and the Red Temple.
Nearby, you’ll pass by some of Cacaxtla’s many pillars. As we’ll cover shortly, many of the pillars are painted. But over to the side, notice the three-dimensional stucco artwork depicting the feet of a mysterious figure. A similar piece is also on display at the on-site museum.
Coming back around to the edge of the North Plaza, it’s time for the most impressive of the Cacaxtla murals. Most ancient Mesoamerican cities, of course, were covered in vibrant colors. But very few murals have survived, which is what makes seeing original frescoes in situ at Cacxtla so special.
The scenes are divided into two halves on either side of the staircase. Beginning with the murals to the left, we see what appears to be a military victory and sacrifice of war captives.
But some scholars suggest that the scene holds a deeper symbolic meaning. The figure being speared to death, for example, may actually represent the god of maize.
Thus, the scene could represent the death of the deity before his eventual rebirth, and in turn the overall cycles of nature.
On the far left of the right-hand set of murals, notice the feathered hat or mask of the slaughtered individual. It resembles the headgear worn by the Mayan maize god, Hun Hunahpu. According to Mayan mythology, the deity was decapitated during each harvest before eventually being reborn.
Similar scenes can be seen further to the right, which may possibly depict the maize god dying at the hands of the rain god.
But other scholars simply take these scenes of war and death at face value. And it’s easy to understand why, as the period after the fall of Teotihuacan was indeed one of the most tumultuous and dangerous eras in pre-Hispanic history.
Accordingly, sites like Cacaxtla and Xochicalco were built atop hills and heavily fortified.
When making the Cacaxtla murals, the artists used black from charcoal, green from copper oxide, white from limestone and blue from a rare type of clay.
But how were they preserved for so long? It’s because the murals were deliberately buried in fine sand before the site was abandoned.
While the rulers likely did this with the intent of returning, and surely not for tourists of the future, their careful action has allowed people to appreciate the Cacaxtla murals centuries later.
Around the corner, you’ll see even more impressive murals in Building A. These murals were painted around 650 AD, which is a full century earlier than the battle murals featured above.
Here you can see two figures which likely depicted priest-kings – one dressed as a jaguar and another as some kind of bird. The feline priest holds numerous symbols related to the rain deity, Tlaloc. And notice how the bird priest is standing above a plumed serpent representing Quetzalcoatl.
Finished with your tour of the Gran Basamento, the path will lead you outside. Ordinarily, from here you’d be able to access a path leading directly to the hill on which Xochitécatl is located.
But during my visit, it was closed, and I wasn’t sure how I was going to get there.
I eventually did make it to Xochitécatl. But before going into how to do it, let’s go over some of the things one can find at the Cacaxtla Museum, which you’ll have passed shortly after the ticket gate.
The Cacaxtla Museum
The Cacaxtla Museum isn’t particularly large and it feels a bit dated, but it’s home to a number of interesting artifacts. While the museum is in Spanish only, if you can understand it, you’ll find a detailed overview of Cacaxtla’s history.
In terms of artifacts, highlights include a colonial-era map of Cacaxtla’s location, a collection of circular stones representing fertility, fragments of original murals, and ceramic figurines.
Among the most impressive pieces are the various carved, small sculptures of priests donning the attire of various deities. Another fascinating, almost life-size piece is of a man wearing traditional dress.
You’ll also find colorful replicas of some of the murals, such as those of the Red Temple and Venus Temple.
Xochitécatl
Your ticket for Cacaxtla will be good for Xochitécatl as well, so hold onto it. Xochitécatl is just under two kilometers from Cacaxtla. But if you find the official path closed as I did, you’ll have to take a much longer route.
Checking Google Maps, I saw the estimated time to be an hour. And so I began heading in that direction, but with the intention of finding some kind of shortcut along the way.
But now having done it, I can confirm that no such shortcut exists. The uphill path between the two sites is entirely fenced in on either side. And if you’re thinking of climbing up the hill, it’s not a good idea.
Aside from the whole trespassing issue, it gets steep and rocky near the top of the hill, so you’d end up having to do some dangerous scrambling.
Before setting off for the journey, I asked the guards outside Cacaxtla about the best way to reach Xochitécatl. They actually told me that walking was impossible, and that I should return to the main road and wait for another bus.
But if the official path is closed during your visit, walking is indeed possible, though it will take you an hour.
Finally making it up the hill, I headed straight for the first pyramid I saw – a circular pyramid that somewhat resembles Cuicuilco or Guachimontones.
Constructed during Xochitécatl’s earliest stage of occupancy, it’s appropriately dubbed the ‘Spiral Pyramid.’
From the hilltop, one can see the peaks of volcanoes like La Malinche, Iztaccíhuatl and Popocatepetl. It was the latter that the Spiral Pyramid was based on. Various Mesomaerican civilizations, in fact, integrated nearby geographical features into the designs of their structures.
Reaching the top, you’ll find a wooden cross (or maybe just its platform!), which is used during modern syncretic rites blending pre-Hispanic and Catholic beliefs.
Within the pyramid, meanwhile, archaeologists have discovered numerous ritual offerings that are now on display at the on-site museum (more below).
Nearby is the long and flat Platform of the Volcanoes. Notably, this is the only structure that the Olmeca-Xicallanca built from scratch when they took over the site in the 7th century. As one might expect, it was mainly used for ceremonial purposes.
Moving further along, you’ll reach the Temple of the Serpent, recognizable for the large ramp in front of it. Reaching the top, you’ll find a stone tub with a monolithic pillar inside – exactly the way archaeologists discovered it.
The tub would’ve once held water, and it was where locals carried out important rituals related to fertility. Xochitécatl as a whole, as mentioned, had long been a focal point of goddess worship and fertility rituals in the region.
Finally, at the edge of the site is its largest structure, the Pyramid of the Flowers. The multi-tiered pyramid stands at 37 m high, and it was yet another structure to have been closely associated with fertility rituals.
We know this because of the water basins in front of the staircase as well as the numerous figurines of goddesses found buried within.
Reaching the top, you’ll find a gate built of monolithic pillars which would’ve led to a temple. Obviously, the temple is no more, and the gate standing on its own now reminds one of a Japanese tori.
The top of the pyramid offers an excellent view of Cacaxtla with La Malinche volcano behind it. Like how the Spiral Pyramid was meant to represent Popocatepetl, the Pyramid of the Flowers represented La Malinche.
The Xochitécatl Museum
As with Cacaxtla, Xochitécatl is also home to an on-site museum. This one is a lot more modern and fancy, though the artifacts within aren’t quite as interesting. But if you made it all the way up here, there’s no reason not to step inside.
As discussed above, Xochitécatl was long the center of the regional fertility cult, and many of the items on display here are figurines of female deities or entities. They were typically buried within the pyramids and temples as offerings, only to be uncovered by archaeologists centuries later.
Interestingly, in terms of style, we can see influence from both Teotihuacan and the Gulf Coast.
Additional Info
Visiting Cacaxtla and Xochitécatl is a relatively easy day trip from Puebla. The company that runs buses to the area is called Flecha Azul, but you do NOT want to head to CAPU (Puebla’s main bus station) for this journey.
To catch a Flecha Azul bus, you have a couple of options. They have their own terminal which is located at the intersection of Ave. 10 Pte. and Calle 11 Nte. It will take you about 15-20 minutes to walk there from the Centro Historico, or you could just take an Uber.
If you’re staying closer to CAPU, while Flecha Azul buses won’t stop there directly, they do run along Blvd. Carmen Serdan just east of the station. Try waiting at the bus stop outside of Hotel Terminal.
But which bus to take? Look for a bus that either says San Martín Texmelucan or Nativitas on it. The ride should take about 45 minutes. When getting on, it would be a good idea to tell the driver you’re visiting Cacaxtla so he knows where to drop you off.
The Flecha Azul bus won’t take you directly to the ruins but will drop you off nearby along the main road. You should then wait for a local minivan to take you uphill to the ruins. This ride takes just a few minutes and the Flecha Azul driver should tell you exactly where to wait.
As mentioned above, there is a direct path between Cacaxtla and Xochitécatl, but you may find it closed. If that’s the case, you’ll either have to return to the main road and catch a couple more buses, or walk for an hour.
When finished with Xochitécatl, return to the main road and simply wait for a Puebla-bound bus to pass by.
The most beautiful part of Puebla is undoubtedly its Centro Historico. And this is also where you’re going to find most of the city’s cultural landmarks. What’s more, is that there are plenty of hotel options to choose from here, such as the highly-rated Hotel Boutique Casareyna (high-end), Hotel Diana (midrange) and Hotel Centro Historico (budget).
But would there any reason to not stay in the center? Yes, and for two main reasons. First of all, Puebla is not just a destination in its own right, but the city is one of the best bases for day trips in all of Mexico.
Secondly, the main bus station, CAPU, is unfortunately located quite far from the center. While I originally wanted to stay in the historical district, I realized that there were at least five day trips I wanted to go on that would require a visit to CAPU – not to mention my arrival and departure days.
And so I found an Airbnb within fifteen minutes on foot from the station. In the end, I’m really glad that I did, as it saved me a lot of time and hassle.
Unfortunately, however, the whole area around the bus station is not the most charming, to say the least (though it did at least feel safe). Compared with the historical center, it felt like another world.
While I didn’t have the best experience at my Airbnb for various reasons, you may want to consider Hotel Central, located right next to the station. I would end up staying here during a later trip, and while it was very basic and a bit rundown, I found it fine overall for the price.
Puebla has no tram network, and the drive between the center and CAPU is at least 20 minutes (only if traffic is perfectly smooth). Deciding where to stay, then, all depends on how many day trips you’ll be taking and how extra early you’d be willing to depart to ensure you don’t miss your buses.