Last Updated on: 4th August 2024, 11:32 pm
Located 25 km to the west of Puebla, Atlixco is one of Mexico’s most colorful Pueblos Mágicos. As with many ‘Magic Towns,’ Atlixco doesn’t have a whole lot going for it in terms of attractions. But where it really shines is its atmosphere, traditional architecture and stunning volcano views. In the following Atlixco guide, we’ll be covering the best way to experience The City of Flowers as a day trip from Puebla.
Up the Cerro de San Miguel
Arguably the top thing to do in Atlixco is climbing up the Cerro de San Miguel in the center of town. While the church at the top is a little underwhelming, you’ll pass by numerous highlights on the way up.
Begin your journey at Atlixco’s iconic painted steps, locally known as La Escalera Ancha. The 85-step staircase, first constructed by the Franciscans, is now adorned with a massive mural painting of a man and woman in traditional dress.
These costumes can be seen during the annual Huey Atlixcáyotl festival which occurs in late September. In a syncretic blend of pre-Hispanic and Catholic traditions, the festival is dually dedicated to both the Archangel Michael and Quetzalcoatl.
The festival is a fairly recent tradition, having started in 1965. Nonetheless, it’s based on a pre-Hispanic ceremony held to give thanks for the harvest. The festivities involve things like a parade and traditional dances.
In regards to Atlixco’s pre-Hispanic past, the local history is a bit confusing, with numerous indigenous groups having taken control over the area throughout the centuries. But one thing for certain is that Quetzalcoatl, the Plumed Serpent, was one of the primary deities in the region.
At the top of the staircase, you’ll find the Ex-Convent of San Francisco. Established in 1582, it’s regarded as one of the oldest buildings in Atlixco. Unfortunately, the doors were closed during my visit, but I could still enjoy the facade.
Architecturally, the church represents a fusion of Baroque, Gothic and Mudéjar (Moorish) architectural styles.
Nearby the church, be sure to walk down Calzada 16 de Septiembre, where you’ll find plenty of colorful murals and hanging baskets of geraniums. Atlixco, in fact, is widely known for its flowers, with its full official name being Atlixco de las Flores.
Large flower ‘carpets’ are created throughout the year at the annual Flower Festival in March, as well as during the annual Day of the Dead festivities.
Continuing further up the hill, you’ll pass by numerous scenic overlooks, and even what appears to be a stage for concerts. As Atlixco is only home to about 125,000 people, you’ll clearly be able to see the entire town.
Reaching the summit, you’ll encounter the yellow Chapel of San Miguel Hill, built in the 18th century. But in pre-Hispanic times, a temple dedicated to Quetzalcoatl is believed to have stood at this spot.
Frankly, this church is nothing special, and you’ll likely find the doors locked. But the main reason to come here is for the aforementioned views.
If you visit on a clear day, you can also appreciate views of the Popocatépetl volcano, which is Mexico’s second-highest peak at 5,426 m.
It was sadly cloudy during my visit. But I could just make out the peak through the clouds and was blown away by the sheer size of the volcano.
Around the Center
The rest of this Atlixco guide covers things to check out around the town center. As we’ll cover below, there are indeed specific highlights to see. But a big part of the fun is walking down random streets and checking out various colorful buildings.
As with most colonial-era towns, Atlixco has no shortage of churches. Some notable ones at ground level include the San Agustin Church, easily recognizable for its yellow color. While construction was initiated in 1546, it wasn’t completed until 1629.
Also of note is the Chapel of the Third Order of San Francisco. At the time of my visit, even the outer gates were locked, but I could still make out the ornately decorated facade through the gap in the fence.
With its carvings of vegetal motifs, geometric patterns and angels, it’s arguably the finest church facade in Atlixco.
As with many towns in Mexico, Atlixco is centered around its Zócalo, or main square. And as is also typically the case, facing the square is a church. Known as Parroquia de Santa Maria de la Natividad, the 16th-century church has a simple yet elegant facade.
While it’s also known for its interior decorations, the church has been closed for restorations due to earthquake damage.
Also facing the Zócalo is the Palacio Municipal, a red building covered in Talavera tiles. Its style is reminiscent of some of the churches is nearby Cholula. While I didn’t step inside, the interior is said to be decorated with colorful murals depicting Atlixco’s history.
Also around the center, be sure to seek out things like the Commemorative Arch and the ruins of an abandoned monastery, outside of which is a well-manicured garden.
And that pretty much sums up this guide to Atlixco. While there’s no disputing that Atlixco is indeed a charming town, you may still be wondering if it’s worth setting aside a day for, especially considering all the other fascinating day trip options from Puebla.
If you’re especially into ruins, then places like Cholula, Cantona and Cacaxtla should all take a higher priority on your list. Furthermore, hiking fans shouldn’t miss climbs up La Malinche or Monte Tlaloc.
But while Atlixco is no Taxco or San Cristóbal, this Pueblo Mágico is indeed worth seeing if you have the time. As you’ll only need a half-day or so to view it, it makes for a nice break in between the more tiring day trips from Puebla.
Additional Info
Buses between Atlixco and Puebla’s CAPU are run by the ORO bus company, and the journey lasts about an hour – provided the bus leaves when it’s supposed to.
Buses are scheduled to depart from CAPU every forty minutes. But in my case, no bus showed up at my scheduled departure time, and I had to wait until the next one. It seemed like they had reduced their schedule by half with no prior announcement.
I ended up arriving nearly an hour later than originally expected, but I still had plenty of time to see all the things mentioned in the Atlixco guide above. And fortunately, getting back to Puebla was much smoother.
Alternatively, you may want to take a guided tour such as this one, which includes a visit to a local trout farm.
This tour, meanwhile, combines a trip to Atlixco with the Great Pyramid of Cholula.
The most beautiful part of Puebla is undoubtedly its Centro Historico. And this is also where you’re going to find most of the city’s cultural landmarks. What’s more, is that there are plenty of hotel options to choose from here, such as the highly-rated Hotel Boutique Casareyna (high-end), Hotel Diana (midrange) and Hotel Centro Historico (budget).
But would there any reason to not stay in the center? Yes, and for two main reasons. First of all, Puebla is not just a destination in its own right, but the city is one of the best bases for day trips in all of Mexico.
Secondly, the main bus station, CAPU, is unfortunately located quite far from the center. While I originally wanted to stay in the historical district, I realized that there were at least five day trips I wanted to go on that would require a visit to CAPU – not to mention my arrival and departure days.
And so I found an Airbnb within fifteen minutes on foot from the station. In the end, I’m really glad that I did, as it saved me a lot of time and hassle.
Unfortunately, however, the whole area around the bus station is not the most charming, to say the least (though it did at least feel safe). Compared with the historical center, it felt like another world.
While I didn’t have the best experience at my Airbnb for various reasons, you may want to consider Hotel Central, located right next to the station. I would end up staying here during a later trip, and while it was very basic and a bit rundown, I found it fine overall for the price.
Puebla has no tram network, and the drive between the center and CAPU is at least 20 minutes (only if traffic is perfectly smooth). Deciding where to stay, then, all depends on how many day trips you’ll be taking and how extra early you’d be willing to depart to ensure you don’t miss your buses.