Last Updated on: 7th December 2024, 07:48 am
As you’ll discover throughout your travels along Montenegro’s Adriatic coast, just about every city has a walled Old Town. Usually, as is the case with Budva or Kotor, they’re bustling with museums, souvenir shops and restaurants. But what makes visiting Stari Bar (‘Old Bar’) unique is that it’s entirely in ruin.
What’s more, is that it’s situated atop a hill, providing stunning views of the surrounding mountains. And while you’re in southern Montenegro, it’s worth checking out yet another Old Town in the city of Ulcinj, situated right by the border with Albania.
Following this guide to the Old Towns of Bar and Ulcinj, be sure to check the end of the article for info on accommodation and transpor.
Visiting Stari Bar
In contrast to other Old Towns throughout Montenegro, Stari Bar is located inland rather than right along the coast. And visiting Stari Bar requires making a 4 km journey from the bus station – either on foot or by public bus.
I opted to get there on foot. But as the old town is situated on a hill near the base of Mt. Rumija, it’s a constant uphill climb. Luckily, the climb wasn’t too bad overall.

Making your way through the suburbs of Bar, you’ll eventually get your first glimpse of Stari Bar’s haunting ruins in the distance. With the mountains in the background, this is arguably one of Montenegro’s most striking locations. And in such a scenic country, that’s certainly saying something.
Approaching the entrance, you’ll pass by a museum which showcases findings from the area, though it was sadly closed at the time of my visit.
While Stari Bar is relatively obscure as far as attractions in Montenegro go, the base of the fortress is lined with numerous restaurants and souvenir shops. Now may be a good time to get some breakfast.


Arriving at the entry gate, notice the Lion of St. Mark, a symbol of the city of Venice. And making your way through, it’s time to leave the modern world behind.
As mentioned above, visiting Stari Bar is a unique experience due to the fact that it’s (almost) entirely in ruin. Originally containing around 240 buildings in total, there’s quite a lot to see.
It will take you at least a couple of hours to explore fully. With that in mind, the €2 entry fee is an amazing value. Papers maps of the area, however, cost extra. I decided to explore on my own, managing to find everything eventually with a bit of trial and error.


Archaeological evidence suggests that there was an ancient Illyrian settlement here from as early as the 9th century BC. Then, much later, the region became part of the Byzantine Empire, when it was known as Antivarium.
Bar was then incorporated into the Serbian Empire ruled by the Nemanjić dynasty, the most prominent medieval dynasty in Serbia. Throughout the Middles Ages, it would switch hands between the Serbians, the Venetians and the Hungarians.
And from 1571, Bar would be held by the Ottomans for the next three centuries.


Following a fierce battle in the 1870s, the town was finally taken over by the Principality of Montenegro. And amazingly, Stari Bar remained inhabited until as recently as 1979.
But following a large earthquake that year, it was entirely destroyed and abandoned, resulting in the establishment of the new city of Bar along the coast.
As you walk through the ruins, many of the buildings are indistinguishable, though there are a few restored highlights to keep an eye out for. One of them is the clock tower, built in 1752 and located in the southeastern part of town.

Not far away is St. George’s Cathedral. Originally built as a Romanesque church, it was converted to a mosque in the 17th century. But tragically, it was accidentally destroyed by a gunpowder explosion!
Prior to the 20th-century earthquake, in fact, many of Stari Bar’s monuments had already been damaged during the bloody battle against the Ottomans.



Another nearby church, the Church of St. Veneranda, is in much better condition. And this was the only one that was accessible at the time of my visit.
While many of the other structures have also undergone recent facelifts, the doors were mostly locked. Among these churches is St. John’s Church, which was recently restored by the descendants of some of Stari Bar’s original inhabitants.




Another highlight of Stari Bar is the Turkish hammam, or bathhouse, which you’re unlikely to notice when walking beside it. It’s not until viewing the structure from the upper level that its terracotta roof becomes visible.


Also be sure to check out the Lapidarium. The small room contains hundreds of stone fragments dating from the 5th-19th centuries. Originally, the structure was used as a powder magazine by the Ottomans in the 1700s.

Over to the west, the expansive defensive fortress is arguably Stari Bar’s top highlight. It dates to the 11th century and visitors are free to walk up the steps to access the top story. From here, you can get fantastic views of the rest of Stari Bar and the surrounding mountains.
And it’s also from the fortress that one can view Stari Bar’s iconic aqueduct.



Built in the 17th century, the aqueduct brought water from the nearest natural source some 3 km away. It long served as the town’s lifeline – which is exactly why it was targeted by the Montenegrins during their battle against the Ottomans in the 19th century.
The Montenegrins detonated a huge explosive here to cut off Stari Bar’s water supply, forcing the Ottomans to surrender just a few days later.
It was later rebuilt and then more recently restored yet again following the 1979 earthquake.

Visiting Stari Bar is easily one of the most underrated things to do in Montenegro. Tour groups do stop here, though, so it’s ideal to arrive early to beat the crowds. When finished, you can either take a public bus or make the long walk down to the town center.
Be sure to bring your swimwear, as you should still have plenty of time to take a dip in the sea before returning to wherever it is you may be staying.

Around Modern Bar
The center of modern Bar is rather devoid of charm or personality, though it does feature a long seaside promenade. Here you’ll find a decent assortment of restaurants along with one historical monument of interest.
Built in 1885, the former Castle of King Nikola now functions as the Bar Country Museum. While I usually take advantage of the opportunity to visit such places, I was dying to cool off in the water.

Bar’s pebble beach may not be the nicest you’ll find in Montenegro, but it’s a lot less crowded than the main beaches of nearby Ulcinj or Budva. Bar seems to attract more of a local crowd. And while the beach does indeed get busy, the crowds are still bearable.

Visiting the Old Town of Ulcinj
Ulcinj, situated right by Montenegro’s border with Albania, is accordingly comprised of an Albanian-majority population, as it has been for centuries. Furthermore, it’s a favorite seaside destination for Kosovar Albanians, meaning you’ll hear Albanian spoken just about everywhere.
But Ulcinj does indeed have something in common with other places along the Montenegrin coast – its seaside Old Town.

Ulcinj’s Old Town is even visible from its main beach. But you’re likely to find Mala Plaza, as it’s locally known, crowded beyond reason. Don’t feel too disappointed, as there’s a semi-secret beach situated right behind the Old Town itself (learn more below).
Making your way up to the Old Town, be sure to stop at the Serbian Orthodox St. Nicholas Church, known for its vivid frescoes.



The Old Town is comprised of two sections: one area with hotels and restaurants that’s accessible to all, and a separate archaeological zone that costs a few euro to enter.
Entering the paid area, you’ll find a 16th-century church that was later converted to a mosque by the Ottomans. It’s now home to an archaeological museum housing findings from the area – mostly ceramics and glass.




On the other side of the courtyard, meanwhile, are various stone fragments dating from pre-Roman times through the Ottoman period. Moving on, you’ll find various unlabelled ruins, somewhat reminiscent of Stari Bar.
And it’s easy to see why: Ulcinj Old Town was damaged by the same 1979 earthquake mentioned above.


Another highlight of Ulcinj Old Town is its view from the tower, from which you can see the packed beach down below.
Considering how crowded central Ulcinj can get in summer, it’s rather remarkable how deserted the Old Town itself feels in comparison – perhaps because of the uphill climb required to get here.

Leaving the museum and exploring the free section of the Old Town, you’ll pass by numerous cafes, restaurants and scenic vantage points of the Adriatic. It’s also around here that you’ll encounter two noteworthy statues.


One of them depicts the legendary Spanish author Miguel de Cervantes, who, according to legend, was once a slave in Ulcinj. And the character of Dulcinea from the novel Don Quixote is believed by some to be based on a local woman.
While Cervantes’s relationship with Ulcinj can’t be fully proven, the southern coastal city was indeed home to a highly controversial figure from the 17th century: Sabbatai Zevi.



Who Was Sabbatai Zevi?
Sabbatai Zevi (1626-1676), born in Smyrna (modern-day Izmir) was a charismatic kabbalist who was known for his sweet singing voice. What’s more, is that he even claimed to have magical powers. And with Jews across Europe and West Asia so desperate for a savior at the time, many started to believe that Zevi was the long-awaited Messiah.
Sabbatai Zevi himself began to proclaim his divinity, and he soon amassed tens of thousands of followers. But the Ottoman sultan at the time, Mehmed IV, wasn’t so sure.
Mehmed IV summoned Zevi, telling him that if he was indeed a divine incarnation, it would be no trouble for his soldiers to attempt to kill him. But Zevi wondered if there was another way out of this, to which Mehmed IV declared that there was – conversion to Islam.
Much of the Jewish world was left in shock, though Zevi still maintained a fair amount of followers who believed that the conversion was all part of some divine plan.
Despite being Muslims on the surface, Zevi and his followers maintained many Jewish customs and traditions in private. Caught by the Ottomans while singing Jewish psalms in Constantinople, he was eventually exiled to Ulcinj, Montenegro, where he also likely died.
Many of his family members and followers then moved to Thessaloniki, Greece, which was also under Ottoman control at the time.
Zevi’s followers and their descendants have been known as Dönmeh, or ‘crypto-Jews.’ And to this day in Turkish society, it’s not uncommon for certain individuals to be accused of being a Dönmeh – including Mustafa Kemal Atatürk himself, who was born in Thessaloniki.


Finished with the Old Town and exiting the main gate, the best beach in Ulcinj can be found by walking downhill away from the town center. After just a few minutes along the road, you’ll encounter a staircase leading you down into a cove.
While the beach, known as Liman, is by no means secret, it’s by far less crowded than the main Mala Plaza beach. Despite Liman’s small size, I had no trouble finding a spot to set down my things . Fortunately, those who don’t mind laying on the rocks can use this beach for free.
Additional Info
The easiest way to get to Bar would be by bus. There are several direct buses per day connecting Bar with Budva, Kotor and Podgorica. And around a dozen linking it with Ulcinj, which takes just around 40 minutes.
Bar can also be accessed from Podgorica and even Belgrade, Serbia, by rail.
Stari Bar is located around 4 km from the city center. You have the option of taking a local city bus, but it’s best to confirm the times and bus number with staff at the bus station.
You should also be able to hire a taxi for several euro one-way. Or, you can try visiting Stari Bar on foot, which takes a little under an hour.
As Ulcinj is at the far southern end of the country, it’s a bit less accessible than other parts of Montenegro. Be that as it may, you’ll find several direct connections with Budva, a few with Kotor, and about a dozen buses per day between Ulcinj and Bar.
Just be aware that there are no websites that list fully accurate and up-to-date bus schedules. That’s why it’s always a good idea to confirm the schedule at the bus station in advance.
At the time of writing, there’s one daily bus from Shkodër, Albania which leaves at 9:00. From the main roundabout (Sheshi Demokracia) from which most local buses depart, head southeast for a minute down Rruga Teuta.
The bus should park along the street near Hotel Rozafa, but don’t expect to see any sign. Locals are helpful and can point out where you should stand.
You’ll also find numerous direct buses leaving from various parts of Kosovo. Just be aware that the journey will briefly take you through Albania, meaning you’ll have to go through immigration twice.
As a popular beach destination, there are plenty of places to stay in Ulcinj. In my case, I arrived in Ulcinj straight from Shkodër, Albania, and was looking for somewhere relatively close to the bus station.
Not only is it convenient to be able to walk to your hotel from the bus station when you’re new in a country and without a SIM card, but I also had plans on visiting Stari Bar as a day trip.
And so I chose a place called Ceka Apartments, where I paid about € 11 per night with a private room, private bathroom and air conditioning. While it was an easy 10-minute walk from the bus station, it took about 40 minutes to the coast and Ulcinj Old Town.
I was happy with my decision and would recommend Ceka to others. But if you’re hoping to relax in town for longer than a few nights, it might be best to find somewhere closer to the coast.

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