A Day in Budva: Exploring Budva Old Town & Sveti Stefan Island

Last Updated on: 4th August 2024, 11:37 pm

Budva is easily one of Montenegro’s most popular destinations, largely due to its abundance of beaches. But as the number of tourists increases each year, so does the amount of high-rises, making it easy to forget that that Budva is actually over 2,000 years old. One respite from the unsightly modern developments is the charming Budva Old Town, which appears much as it would’ve in Venetian times. A bit outside the city, meanwhile, is the photogenic Sveti Stefan, a medieval fortified island.

Following this guide to Budva, be sure to check the very end of the article for more information on transport and where to stay.

Visiting Budva Old Town

Budva was first mentioned by Sophocles in the 5th century BC. Originally a town of ancient Illyria, it was colonized by the Greeks in the late 4th century. 

It quickly grew as a major port and commercial center, although little remains from this period. One exception would be the necropolis, which, when approaching Budva Old Town from the bus station, you’ll encounter just outside the city walls.

Budva Old Town Budva Guide

The necropolis was first discovered in 1937. And excavations have uncovered ceramic vessels, urns, tombstones, and glassware from both the Greek and Roman periods. Many of these items are now on display at the Historical Museum in Cetinje.

Nowadays, there’s not much left, and the necropolis sits right in front of a large glass casino. But that’s modern Budva in a nutshell.

Entering through the gates of Budva Old Town, it’s time to begin exploring. Walking along the narrow cobblestone streets, you’ll pass by things like fancy restaurants, yogurt shops and the remains of ancient Roman villas.

Navigation can be disorienting at first. But after about fifteen minutes, you’ll begin to recognize landmarks and start to get the hang of it.

Budva Necropolis Cetinje Museum
Items from the Budva Necropolis on display in Cetinje
The remains of a Roman villa
Budva Old Town Budva Guide

Following the Roman period, Budva thrived as an early Christian center. And there are numerous churches to find around town, such as the Church of St. John the Baptist. First built in the 7th century, it was repeatedly renovated throughout the Middle Ages, with its current incarnation dating to the 1600s.

Another highlight is the Church of Santa Maria in Punta, which was established as early as the 9th century. And as we’ll go over below, you can find more Christian structures near the Citadel.

Budva was devastated by the Arabs in the 9th century, shortly after which the original fortress walls were built.

Budva Old Town Budva Guide
The Church of Santa Maria in Punta

In the Middle Ages, Budva was ruled by the prominent Serbian Nemanjić dynasty from the12th-14th centuries before being passed back and forth between various rulers. 

But in 1442, the city was taken over by Venice, which would maintain control until the dissolution of the Venetian Republic in 1797. And much of the surviving Old Town took shape during this period.

After the fall of Venice, Budva was later controlled by Austria, France and then Austria again, until Montenegro’s unification with Serbia in 1918. 

Budva's Mythological Origins

According to legend, Budva was founded by the hero Cadmus, the son of a Phoenecian king. One day, his sister was abducted by Zeus, and Cadmus went to look for her. But first, he stopped at the Oracle at Delphi for help, where he was instructed found a new town.

To be certain of the location, he was to encounter a cow with the mark of a full moon on its thighs. He did indeed find the cow, though this wasn’t yet at Budva.

He decided to sacrifice the cow to Athena, but, needing water for the ritual, he first had to slaughter the fierce serpent that was guarding the nearby spring. But as the serpent was a son of Ares, Cadmus later had to atone for his sin, and so he and his wife were sent into exile.

Upon arrival in Illyria, a local tribe elected Cadmus as their new leader, and he lead them to a victorious battle. And he would go on to control the region around Budva, which was named after the oxen (Bouthoe) that pulled him there. 

Poor Cadmus, however, would then suffer more punishment for the slaughter of the serpent, eventually being turned into one himself!

Budva Old Town Budva Guide

Those with an interest in the city’s past should visit the local city museum, one of the top things to do in Budva Old Town. While not terribly thrilling in terms of its artifacts, it offers some great information on the town’s history.

The highlight of the collection is an old mosaic that was discovered during the construction of a nearby hotel. Originally part of an ancient Roman villa, it depicts a dolphin and other sea creatures.

Budva Old Town Budva Guide

Other interesting items include old Illyrian helmets and Terracotta figurines from the Hellenistic period. From more recent times, you’ll find a recreation of an 18th-century house as well as a model ship.

Budva Old Town Budva Guide
Church of the Holy Trinity
Budva Old Town Budva Guide

In the southern part of town, you’ll find the Church of the Holy Trinity, established in 1804. It’s right by the Citadel, in front of which you can find the remains of an early Christian basilica, believed to be as old as the 5th century.

Entrance to the Citadel requires a ticket costing €3.5, but the price is well worth it for Budva’s best views.

Budva Old Town Budva Guide

You’ll first walk through a large and stately library established in the 1930s by the Austrian army. Another room, meanwhile, features a number of model ships on display.

The Budva Citadel is said to have been built right over the city’s ancient acropolis. And stepping outside, you’ll immediately see why the old fortress, which offers clear views of the Adriatic, was built here.

Budva Old Town Budva Guide
Budva Old Town Budva Guide

Before walking up the steps, you’ll pass by the ruins of the Church of Santa Maria de Castello, in use from the 12th-14th centuries. A good amount of the original foundations are now entrapped within the walls later built by the Austrians.

Budva Old Town Budva Guide
Budva Old Town Budva Guide
Budva Old Town Budva Guide

Standing at the highest point of the Citadel, you can see Sveti Nikola Island (more below) in one direction, Budva Old Town in another, and the rest modern Budva in yet another. 

There are few places in Montenegro where this clash between old and new is so jarring.

Budva Old Town Budva Guide

If you’re visiting Budva as a day trip, Sveti Stefan can easily be combined with a trip to the Old Town. And conveniently, the bus stop to get there is just a 10-minute walk from the Old Town gates (see map above).

Budva Old Town Budva Guide

Sveti Stefan

Located about 10 km south of Budva, Sveti Stefan can easily be reached by bus, which costs 2 euro and departs every 15 minutes (but expect delays). 

And after just about 20 minutes on what will likely be a hot and crowded ride, you’ll find yourself in front of Sveti Stefan, Montenegro’s most photographed landmark.

But as famous as it is, it’s important to understand one thing before visiting: the island is an exclusive resort that’s completely off-limits to normal visitors.

Sveti Stefan Budva Guide

So why even visit? Well, for two reasons: to take some photos and to relax on the nearby beach, which is accessible to all. As crowded as the beach can get, it was noticeably less crowded than the beaches I saw in central Budva and would later encounter at Sveti Nikola Island.

Regrettably, I waited until my visit to Sveti Nikola to get in the water. But looking back, Sveti Stefan offers the more pleasant environment for swimming.

Sveti Stefan Budva Guide
Sveti Stefan Budva Guide

Historically, this region was home to a tribe called Paštrovići, and the small island once served as their capital. And in the 15th century, they agreed to become a protectorate of the Venetian Republic, as this would help save them from the Ottomans.

Sveti Stefan Budva Guide

For centuries, the fortified island was home to a dozen families before it grew into a proper village in the 1800s. It later transformed into a royal getaway in the 1930s before being nationalized in the 1950s.

Now part of the Amanti Sveti Stefan 5-star resort, access is strictly limited to resort guests. You can, at least, walk across the causeway to get as close as possible.

Returning to the main road and the bus stop, I found a bus already waiting for passengers. Heading back to central Budva, I still had one more destination on my itinerary.

Sveti Nikola Island

Whether or not you’re visiting Budva Old Town, Sveti Stefan and Sveti Nikola Island all on the same day, you can find the island-bound ferries not far from the bus stop for Sveti Stefan.

From there, just head directly to the nearest beach, where you’ll find numerous restaurants and multiple ferry piers. But confusingly, you won’t see the name ‘Sveti Nikola’ anywhere – only boats bound for ‘Hawaii’!

Sveti Nikola Island Budva Guide

Hawaii is the local name for the island, and the ferry costs €5 roundtrip. While they may or may not ask for it on the way back, it would be a good idea to hold onto it just in case.

But why visit Sveti Nikola Island? Being an island, of course, there are plenty of beaches. And who doesn’t like islands? 

My main reason for coming, though, was that I’d read it would be a good place to escape the crowds. Getting off the boat, however, I immediately saw that this couldn’t be further from the truth.

Sveti Nikola Island Budva Guide

Nevertheless, I tried to make the most of the experience and enjoy the swim. Hoping to find some secret, quieter portion of the island, I walked as far as I could before the beach ran out and there was nothing but cliffs.

Eventually, I dried off and took the return ferry to town, after which I walked to the bus station to make it back to Cetinje. While I did enjoy my day in Budva, I also found myself relieved to be leaving it behind.

Sveti Nikola Island Budva Guide
Sveti Nikola Island Budva Guide

Additional Info

While Budva makes for a nice day trip for those who have the time, there’s no question that Kotor is the top seaside destination in Montenegro. Kotor’s Old Town may be similar to that of Budva, but it also maintains much of its traditional ambiance and appearance well beyond the ancient city walls.

Atmosphere aside, I’ve heard some people recommend Budva as the top place to visit for those wishing to enjoy the beach. And it’s true that Budva has much larger beaches than Kotor.

But, somewhat paradoxically, it’s precisely Kotor’s lack of large beaches that makes it Montenegro’s top destination for swimming. To the north of the town center, for example, the entire waterfront is lined with tiny beaches that are too small for lounge chairs and umbrellas. And that actually makes it easier to find your own secluded space by the water.

While Budva Old Town and Sveti Stefan are indeed interesting, all in all, the city has been ruined by overdevelopment and rowdy summer tourist crowds. Instead of making Budva your base, try staying in Cetinje, visiting Budva as a day trip before basing yourself in Kotor.

Budva is best reached by bus. And as Montenegro’s most-visited city, there are numerous connections throughout the day with just about every other city in the country.You should also be able to find international buses coming from places like Belgrade, Serbia, Sarajevo, Bosnia, Skopje, North Macedonia and Dubrovnik, Croatia.For those basing themselves in Croatia and who only have time to visit Montenegro as a day trip, a tour would be the easiest option. This highly-rated tour combines the top sites of Budva with Kotor and Perast.Given its popularity, staying in Budva can get rather pricey. In terms of location, staying near Budva Old Town or the coast would be ideal. But as mentioned above, I’d recommend staying in Cetinje and Kotor instead.Booking.com

Montenegro in summer can get expensive. Especially by Balkan standards. But even during the peak tourism season, you can still find a private room in Cetinje for as little as €10.

The major downside, of course, is that you won’t be by the beach. But from Cetinje, one can easily make day trips to places like Budva and other landmarks like Ostrog Monastery.

I found that staying for several nights in Cetinje and several more in Kotor was a great way to explore the country.

I stayed at Hostel Holiday Cetinje, where I paid €10 for a private room with a shared bathroom. While not right in the center, the town is small enough that all the main landmarks were walkable.

Even for such a small city, those on a larger budget will have plenty of good options to choose from.



Booking.com

Subscribe
Notify of
guest

1 Comment
Oldest
Newest Most Voted
Inline Feedbacks
View all comments
trackback

[…] away from the fjord, and directly to the lovely Adriatic coast, the beautiful city of Budva has long drawn tourists to its shores, looking to enjoy great beaches, fantastic nightlife, a rustic old town, with shades of Kotor, as […]

Scroll to Top