Last Updated on: 29th December 2024, 09:30 am
La Paz, a city of 250,000 residents, is the capital and largest city of Baja California Sur, one of Mexico’s most sparsely populated states. While long overshadowed by the nearby resort city of Cabo San Lucas, more and more people are now discovering La Paz and its unrivaled natural beauty. In the following guide, we’ll be covering the top things to do in La Paz, including a visit to the remarkable Espíritu Santo Island.
For tips on reaching La Paz and the best places to stay, be sure to check the end of the article.
La Paz: A Brief History
Given its remote geography, the Baja Peninsula in many ways feels like a separate country from the rest of Mexico. But the area was first settled as early as the 16th century by none other than Hernán Cortés.
Much of the motivation for the Spanish conquest came from the desire for gold. And while the Aztecs did have some, it wasn’t nearly as much as the conquistadors had expected or hoped for. Following the conquest, and after Cortés had largely been stripped of political power by the Spanish crown, he was as determined as ever to conquer more lands.
At the time in Spain, fantastical legends about islands filled with gold were extremely popular. And back then, nobody had an idea of how long what we now call the Baja Peninsula really was. Understandably, it was presumed to be an island, which the Spanish simply called California.
Cortés would spend much of his own money and resources trying to explore it. But he didn’t go there himself initially, first sending a man by the name of Fortún Ximénez. Unfortunately, Ximénez was a terrible scoundrel.
Despite a successful landing in what’s now La Paz, he and his crew raped the native women and stole their pearls. Understandably, he and most of his men were killed in retaliation.
Cortés then decided to come over himself, and upon landing at La Paz, he aimed to set up a small colony. But the ships he sent back to Sinaloa for supplies and men were lost in a storm. And after numerous other difficulties, the colony was eventually abandoned.
Despite his failed attempts, the sea which separates the Baja Peninsula and the mainland has since been named the Sea of Cortez in his honor. And it’s now revered by many as the ‘aquarium of the world.’
Over time, La Paz would be successfully settled, largely thanks to the arrival of Jesuit missionaries. But no permanent colony would even thrive here until 1811. Despite its remoteness, arid climate and lack of gold, it’s easy to see how this stunningly beautiful region long captured the hearts of explorers and adventurers.
Explore the City Center
Like many coastal cities, La Paz doesn’t quite have a distinct center and is instead spread out along the coast. The city is bordered by its malecón which stretches out to 5.5 km in total and is arguably the true heart of central La Paz.
Like many malecóns, it contains numerous small beaches, sculptures, and boardwalks. But out of all the malecóns in Mexico, this one is easily the most beautiful.
This is largely due to the stunning turquoise color of the water. Typically, one needs to travel to remote locations to see such a hue, but here you can enjoy it right in the middle of a state capital.
(Similar water, of course, can be seen in urban areas along the Riviera Maya, but those towns lack malecóns.)
As we’ll cover below, there’s no rule prohibiting one from swimming at the small beaches along the malecón, but few locals do. For swimming, most people venture out to one of the many beaches to the north of town.
Other highlights of the area include the Kiosco del Malecón, which provides great views of the water, and the pleasant park that surrounds it.
Further inland, but just a few blocks east of the Kiosco del Malecón, is the Jardín Velasco, which could be considered La Paz’s main square. And facing it is the Our Lady of Peace Cathedral, the seat of the local Diocese.
While the Jesuits first founded a mission here in the early 19th century, the current structure, which was built in the Romanesque style, dates to 1861.
On the opposite side of Jardín Velasco, meanwhile, is the Museo de Arte de Baja California Sur, the state’s prominent art museum. While not particularly large, entrance is at least free.
And on the opposite side of the museum, don’t miss the Faroles, a set of tall streetlights that’s one of the city’s most popular places for photography.
Further inland still is the Museo Regional de Antropología e Historia, which is a must-visit for those interested in the history of the Baja Peninsula. In contrast to other parts of Mexico, the natives never built elaborate stone cities here.
But the local tribes did create elaborate cave murals throughout the region. The ones near La Paz itself aren’t accessible, with most of the popular cave paintings being in the general region of Mulegé.
In addition to examples of these fascinating murals, the museum then covers the colonial period and the efforts of the Catholic missions.
At the time of writing, the museum costs $75 MXN to enter and is open from Tuesday to Sunday.
A Boat Tour to Espíritu Santo Island
Without a doubt, the top thing to do in La Paz is taking a boat tour Espíritu Santo Island, an excursion which lasts most of the day.
While Espíritu Santo Island tours run year-round, whale watching tours and whale shark snorkeling excursions only run during certain months. Learn more about them, along with how to book a tour to Espíritu Santo, at the end of this section.
Together with neighboring Isla Partida, the uninhabited island was declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1995, and since 2007, a Mexican National Park. Today, up to 479.9 km of land and sea are protected by law.
This was largely thanks to the efforts of American-born and naturalized Mexican citizen Tim Means, who had long promoted the area and took people here on adventure tours.
He managed to raise awareness and funds, purchasing a large part of the island to prevent it from being turned into a resort casino.
Jacques Cousteau dubbed the Sea of Cortez ‘the aquarium of the world.’ And during your tour around Espiritu Santo Island, you’ll quickly see why. Departing from La Paz a little after eleven, it wasn’t long before we encountered a school of bottlenose dolphins.
As we’ll cover shortly, this was just the first of many wildlife encounters throughout the day.
Next, we arrived near a large colony of frigate birds, a type of seabird common in tropical areas. These are just one of many bird species found on Espíritu Santo Island, with others being pelicans, blue-footed boobies, red-billed tropicbirds and more.
As mentioned above, the Sea of Cortez’s turquoise water can even be seen from the city center. But the colors are even more striking once one gets near Espíritu Santo Island. This was simply some of the most beautiful water I’ve ever seen.
While you can see similar aqua-colored water along the Riviera Maya, that flat region lacks the mountainous desert topography of La Paz. And the unique contrast is what makes this the most beautiful part of Mexico, in my opinion.
Next, it was time for what many consider to be the main event of an Espíritu Santo Island tour: swimming with sea lions. The island, in fact, is home to around 700 in total – one of the largest sea lion populations in the world.
Before we got close enough to even see them properly, we could both hear them – and smell them – from the boat.
The cacophony of hundreds of sea lions moaning and shrieking made for a very surreal, and somewhat disturbing, experience. Fortunately, swimming here is safe, but there are a number of protocols that must be followed.
Understand that swimming with the sea lions is entirely optional, so if you’d prefer to simply enjoy them from the boat, that won’t be a problem. Only half of the adults from my boat tour decided to do it, while none of the children were up for it.
The tour company provided us with snorkel gear and flippers. And upon getting in the water, all six or seven of us were instructed to hold onto the same life raft. Supposedly, swimming together as a large group appears somewhat intimidating to the sea lions, ensuring that they leave us alone.
A couple of them did swim directly under us, however, which we could clearly see thanks to our goggles. Unfortunately, I did not yet have a GoPro camera at the time of this excursion, so I lack footage of the swim itself. But I doubt that any footage could do this unforgettable experience justice.
When it comes to observing animals in the wild, there are rarely ever guarantees. Sometimes you just have to rely on luck. And fortunately for us, we got quite lucky with our next sighting: a mother whale and her calf.
While the Baja Peninsula as a whole is famous for whale watching, the season had ended a few weeks prior to my visit, and no more whale watching tours were running from La Paz. So getting to see one by chance like this was a nice surprise.
Next, we passed through a cave, where the highlight is supposed to be the opening itself which, from a certain angle, resembles a human face. While I remember seeing a face at the time, my photos don’t seem to have quite captured it.
Typical Espíritu Santo Island tours include lunch and a stop for a swim. This usually happens at Ensenada Grande beach, which is actually on Isla Partida, a smaller island which lies just north of Espíritu Santo.
While it used to be possible to hike around the island, this is no longer allowed. Therefore, you’ll just have to spend the time enjoying the ceviche and swimming in the crystal clear water.
While I spotted numerous transparent jellyfish in the water, I carefully managed to avoid getting stung.
While void of inhabitants today, Espíritu Santo Island was once inhabited by native tribes for thousands of years. Evidence of fishhooks, for example, dates back to over 8000 years ago.
There are said to be cave paintings around the island, though they’re not accessible to visitors. One piece of archaeological evidence you can see, however, is a giant stone mask.
Near the end of the tour, we were treated with yet another surprise: more dolphins. As opposed to the bottlenose dolphins we spotted earlier in the day, our guide explained that these were just ‘regular’ dolphins.
Later in Loreto, I’d take a similar tour to Coronados Island, where we found ourselves right in the midst of a large dolphin pod! The Sea of Cortez does indeed feel like a massive aquarium.
Arranging a Tour
Booking an Espíritu Santo Island boat tour can be rather confusing. There are indeed highly-rated tours that are bookable online, such as this one and this one. But as the online tours cost a bit more than I wanted to spend, I decided to see what I could find on the ground.
During my first day out exploring the city, I encountered numerous touts along the malecón offering tours, all of whom were offering the same price of $1200 MXN (about $67 USD at the time of writing).
They also all wanted a 200 peso deposit to secure the booking. At first I was a little suspicious, as most of these companies lacked any online presence whatsoever, except for one. The company was Bony Tours, who at least had a Facebook page with positive reviews.
I decided to take the risk and book with them, figuring the worst that would happen would be losing 200 pesos. In the end, everything worked out smoothly and I’d definitely recommend them.
For what it’s worth, while Bony does seem to handle some of their own tours, for the Espíritu Santo Island tour, they took me to a boat run by a different company called SIMAR. It didn’t matter, as the guides were great, and as an added bonus, spoke fluent English.
While I have no regrets about my decision, I would later come across a post in a La Paz expat group by someone who got scammed. According to the poster, they left their deposit with the tout only to get ghosted. And reading the responses, many long-time residents agreed that it was common sense not to deal with the tour companies on the street.
As mentioned, my experience was different, but if you’re concerned, you might want to book online instead.
OTHER POPULAR TOURS: Other popular boat tours from La Paz include whale watching tours and the chance to snorkel with whale sharks. Unlike the Espíritu Santo Island tour, both of these tours are seasonal and are also typically more expensive. But if either of them sound interesting, be sure to plan your visit accordingly.
This is the most popular whale shark tour online, while this is a highly-rated whale watching excursion.
Visit Balandra Beach
Looking up pictures of La Paz, many of the photos are of Balandra Beach – either from above or of its iconic mushroom rock formation.
Conveniently, many of the Espíritu Santo Island boat tours, such as the one mentioned above, will take you near the beach. But prior to taking the tour, I was under the assumption we’d be stopping there as well.
Unfortunately, that’s no longer possible. Like Espíritu Santo Island, Balandra Beach is also a protected area. And as recently as 2022, a yacht caught on fire there, resulting in a fuel spill and major environmental damage!
The beach closed for a while and has since reopened with a new rule stating that visitors can only access the beach if they arrive by land.
We did, at least, get fairly close to the famous mushroom rock (Hongo de Balandra). I was surprised by how unnatural it looks in person, and this is because parts of it repeatedly break off before getting repaired by locals.
Even after the boat tour, I was intending to visit Balandra Beach by bus on a separate day but ultimately chose not to. Here’s why:
At the time of writing, the beach is open from 8:00-12:00 and then from 13:00-17:00, meaning everyone has to leave the beach between noon and one. Furthermore, each shift has a cap of 400 visitors, though this could always change. (Balandra is, at least, free to enter.)
Given the visitor cap and the beach’s immense popularity (it’s also accessible from Cabo), most sources emphasize the importance of showing up by 8:00, with others even recommending 6:00 or 7:00!
Otherwise, you’ll have to wait in a long line and potentially not be allowed in at all. Also keep in mind that the beach is about a thirty-minute drive from central La Paz.
After the beautiful scenery I saw on Espíritu Santo Island, I don’t feel like I missed a whole lot by not returning to Balandra, though I did hope to hike up to see it from above.
There doesn’t seem to be an official source that has the latest updates, so your best option may be to check the latest Google reviews.
To avoid the hassle of researching and arranging everything yourself, you could also book a private tour like this one.
Explore More La Paz Beaches
While, as described above, visiting Balandra Beach can be a major hassle, La Paz has plenty more beaches to explore. Just next to Balandra, for example, is Tecolote, which has no visitor cap. Playa Pichilinque and Playa El Tesoro are other popular beaches near Balandra.
If you’re not renting a car, head to the Autotransportes Aguila terminal in central La Paz, as they run a daily Playa Bus that can take you to the beaches mentioned above.
I, on the other hand, opted for a different method for exploring La Paz’s beaches. I rented a bicycle from City Bike in the town center and road north along the malecón, which conveniently has a bike lane along much of it.
Just north of the city center, you’ll encounter some quaint, unnamed beaches. But for whatever reason, people rarely swim in them. And hoping for more of a workout, I kept riding north, occasionally stopping to check out random works of art.
My next stop was Playa El Coromuel, a stunning beach with crystal clear water. This would’ve been a perfectly good place to swim, but I was still curious about what beaches lay further ahead.
I did, however, walk out on the boardwalk to take in the views. There were a fair amount of people out on the beach, and while there seems to be a resort nearby, access to Playa El Coromuel was free.
My next stop was Playa La Concha which, while not as pretty as El Coromuel, had far fewer people. I had still been hoping to ride even further, but it’s right around La Concha that the bicycle lane ends.
And so, I relaxed at Playa La Concha for a few hours before riding the rental bike back into town.
While perhaps not the most epic experience one can have in La Paz, exploring some of the nearby beaches by bike is a great way to experience the outdoors away from the crowds.
Take a Day Trip to Todos Santos
The small town of Todos Santos is one of the most popular destinations in Baja California Sur. And it’s an easy day trip from La Paz, accessible via a 90-minute bus ride with the Autotransportes Aguila company.
Historically, it’s perhaps best known for being where the last battle of the Mexican-American War took place in 1848. While the town briefly thrived as a major sugarcane producer in the 19th century, the freshwater spring ultimately died up and the mills had to close.
The town was eventually revitalized thanks to a new highway in the 1980s and a burgeoning tourism industry. Being within easy reach of both La Paz and Cabo San Lucas, the little town is now packed with visitors day in and day out.
Nevertheless, there’s little to actually do in the town center other than take some photos and purchase souvenirs. While indeed a pretty town, it suffers from the same amusement park-like atmosphere you’ll encounter at some of Mexico’s other popular small towns.
Todos Santos was designated a Pueblo Mágico in 2006. But with a whopping 177 Magic Towns throughout the country at the time of writing, the label no longer means a whole lot.
One of Todos Santos’ most popular landmarks is the Hotel California. Though many have associated it with the iconic Eagles song, that song was written during one of the band’s visits to Los Angeles.
While this hotel first opened in 1947 and the name is coincidental, they apparently have tried to associate themselves with the song in the past, which even prompted the Eagles to sue them!
If you couldn’t tell already, Todos Santos doesn’t quite deserve the hype it gets from influencers online, many of whom probably haven’t traveled much outside of Baja. Nevertheless, it does make for a fun and easy day trip, and there’s also a bonus in store for those who like to get off the beaten path.
One of the top activities for the more adventurous traveler is a hike to the Mirador Punta Lobos, situated to the south of town along the Pacific coast.
If you came by bus and lack your own transport, you’ll have to get there on foot via dusty desert roads. The walk to the trailhead alone takes nearly an hour, so come prepared with adequate water and sunscreen.
Eventually, as you get closer to the ocean, you’ll see some entrances to modern resorts on one side and abandoned buildings on the other. This area used to be the town’s main port for sugar exports, and some of these structures probably date to that era.
From the abandoned building, seek out the trail that takes you up the nearby mountain (you can find the trail map on AllTrails). It’s from this point that the trail lasts another 7.5 km roundtrip, but you can cut it short by turning back at the viewpoint.
Eventually, after an uphill but moderate climb, you’ll reach the stunning Mirador Punta Lobos. If you’ve come from La Paz, it’s pretty cool to be able to see the Sea of Cortez and the Pacific Ocean on the same day, reminding one of how narrow the Baja Peninsula really is.
The trail continues all the way down to the beach. There were no other people in sight, and as tempting as it was to go for a dip, I ultimately decided to end my hike here and begin the long journey back to the bus station.
And it was my lucky day, as shortly into the return walk, a kind local gave me a lift back to the town center.
Additional Info
Generally speaking, when seeking out accommodation in La Paz, the closer you are to the malecón, the better.
Top-rated options near the water include Hotel & Suites El Moro, Amazing Vista Coral Condo and Seven Crown La Paz.
Those on a budget may want to consider something further inland, like Sunset Hostel.
If you’ve already done extensive traveling elsewhere in Mexico, you’ll quickly notice that La Paz is one of the country’s pricier cities – both in terms of accommodation and food.
I stayed for a whole month in La Paz. And for longer stays, Airbnb is the best option. Given the local prices and my need for fast internet, a private bathroom and a cooking space, I opted for one of the many listings run by a host named Mahonri.
While pretty barebones as far as studio apartments go, and aside from the owner’s constantly barking dog, I had a pleasant and drama-free stay. It was rather inconvenient being a 40-minute walk or so from the malecón, but thankfully Uber works quite well in the city.
La Paz can be reached in a number of ways. If you’re coming from elsewhere within the Baja Peninsula, renting a car (or driving your own from the US) is ideal. All of the major towns, however, are indeed accessible by bus, with the main company in this region being Autotransportes Aguila.
The nearest city to La Paz is Cabo San Lucas (which also has a major airport), which is just a little over two hours away. Coming from the north, the nearest town is Loreto, which is over five hours away.
Coming from even further away, you could fly into Cabo San Lucas and then take a bus. Or, you could fly directly into La Paz. The La Paz International Airport has direct connections with numerous cities in central and northern Mexico, as well as San Diego.
Though I was coming from Mazatlán, and direct flights do indeed exist between the two cities, it was much cheaper to come by ferry, which is one of the most popular ways to reach La Paz.
A lot of people with vehicles use these ferries to take them across, but you can also just ride as a regular passenger. I paid $1,900 MXN for the journey, which is currently about $110 USD. But it will cost more if you’re bringing a vehicle, while you can also upgrade to a private room.
Opting for the cheapest option in the cabin, I spent most of the roughly fifteen-hour journey in a chair. While not ideal, the seat was at least large and soft, and it wasn’t any worse than a long international flight.
Covering the ferry and the booking process in-depth is quite a complex topic that deserves its own article, but you can find a detailed rundown here.
When doing your research, you’ll encounter lots of horror stories about the Baja Ferries company. While I don’t dispute these stories, all I can say is that everything went smoothly from my experience.
As mentioned, I wasn’t traveling with a vehicle, which is the issue many people run into problems with. Furthermore, I was able to purchase my ticket in person in Mazatlán well in advance, allowing me to avoid the terribly dysfunctional online and telephone booking procedures.
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