Last Updated on: 6th October 2024, 03:43 pm
Many who’ve done it call the Highline Trail one of Glacier National Park’s quintessential hikes. As we’ll cover below, the most challenging part of the hike is figuring out transport to the trailhead. But once you begin, it’s a relatively flat journey that takes you through some of the park’s most stunning scenery.
In the following guide, we’ll be covering the basics of the Highline Trail, followed by a detailed rundown of how to make it to Logan Pass, the hike’s starting point. After that, we’ll be covering everything you can expect to see during the hike itself.
For more information on where to stay at Glacier National Park along with current park entrance fees, be sure to check the end of the article.
About This Hike
THE BASICS: The Highline Trail can either be done as an out-and-back or point-to-point hike. Those doing the out-and-back version usually turn around at the Granite Park Chalet, making for a 14.8-mile (23.9 km) hike. (You could also turn around earlier as you see fit.)
This guide, however, will be focusing on the point-to-point version of the hike. This entails descending to The Loop via the Granite Park Trail after reaching the Granite Park Chalet, making for an 11.6-mile (18.6 km) hike. In total, the point-to-point hike took me about five hours. From The Loop, you will then need to take a shuttle back to wherever you parked that morning (learn more below).
While quite long, this could be considered a moderate hike, as it only has an elevation gain of about 800 ft (244 m). Note, however, that near the end is an option to make an uphill detour to the Grinnell Glacier Overlook, adding 1.2 miles to the hike. Those who do it commonly consider it the most difficult part of the trek.
As we’ll cover shortly, one of the hardest parts of this adventure is making it to the trailhead at Logan Pass.
Note that this trail is a common place to see or encounter grizzly bears. And if there’s been too much bear activity, rangers may even close the trail for a time. See the latest trail status reports here.
WHAT TO BRING: As with any long hike, you’ll want to come prepared with water, a hat and sunscreen. Wearing hiking boots would be ideal, while trekking poles would come in handy for the final descent.
Another essential item you should definitely bring is bear spray, which essentially acts as mace. Be sure to research in advance how to use it, and also how you should react in a bear encounter before reaching for your spray. You can learn more here, while there are plenty of great YouTube videos on the topic.
While you can find some good deals online, you’re not allowed to fly with bear spray, so you’ll have to buy it locally unless you’re driving from home.
People living in bear country generally discourage the use of bear bells, even nicknaming them ‘dinner bells.’
RECOMMENDED APPS: You can find the full trail outlined on AllTrails on OnX Backcountry, though you’ll have to pay for a yearly subscription in order to download it and access it offline.
For whatever reason, AllTrails only features the point-to-point version of the hike, so consider switching to the free Maps.me app once you’ve reached the chalet.
Getting to Logan Pass
While the Highline Trail itself is a fairly intensive hike, most people’s biggest challenge will be figuring out how to make it to the trailhead.
The trailhead for the hike begins at Logan Pass, located in the middle of Going-to-the-Sun Road. At the time of writing, visitors will need an advanced vehicle reservation to enter Going-to-the-Sun Road from the west, but not from the east (learn more in our Going-to-the-Sun Road guide and our Glacier planning guide).
Unfortunately, even with the vehicle reservation system in place, parking is still extremely difficult to find at Logan Pass.
In years past, it was common for the Logan Pass parking lot to fill up by around 8:00. But the implementation of the vehicle reservation system has actually made the problem worse. Since people can enter Going-to-the-Sun Road without a reservation before 6:00, the lot now typically fills up by around that time (during summer peak season, at least).
Anyway, let’s assume you do manage to find parking. While the hike begins at Logan Pass, it ends at another area called The Loop (assuming you’re doing it point-to-point). Therefore, most people finish the hike by waiting for a free shuttle back up to Logan Pass.
For reasons we’ll cover in the guide below, though technically possible, you wouldn’t want to begin this hike at The Loop.
It’s also worth noting that The Loop has its own parking lot, though it’s quite small. Another strategy would be to park at The Loop, take a free shuttle to Logan Pass, complete the hike and return right back to your car.
However, if you arrive to find both The Loop and Logan Pass parking lots full, you’re going to have a problem.
With all things considered, the best approach for many will be to reach Logan Pass with the free Going-to-the-Sun Road shuttle. (See the shuttle map here.)
But nothing at Glacier is simple, and even taking the shuttle comes with some caveats. The day before my hike, I asked a ranger at the Apgar Visitor Center for advice.
While she said that the Logan Pass parking lot could fill up by six, she also stressed the importance of arriving early enough to be able to board the very first shuttle of the day.
The first shuttle from Apgar departs at 7:00, and it functions as an express shuttle that takes you directly to Logan Pass. According to the ranger I talked to, people already start lining up for it from 6:00, and the express shuttles can only fit about 15 people.
So if you’re willing to show up that early, you might also consider driving yourself in hopes of finding a parking space. But as mentioned, if you’re a bit too late, you’ll be out of luck. Also keep in mind that taking the shuttle eliminates the need for an advanced vehicle reservation on this day.
It takes about an hour from Apgar to Logan Pass. We arrived at Logan Pass around 8:00, and I wasn’t surprised to find the parking lot already completely full.
With such crazy preparation involved to do this hike, I was really hoping that it would live up to the hype. But only time would tell.
Hiking the Highline Trail
After dealing with the madness of making it to Logan Pass, it’s now finally time to start the hike. Fortunately, the hike itself is pretty straightforward, and even a bit relaxing.
You’ll find the trailhead right across the road from Logan Pass. And at the start of the trail, you’ll also find the latest update on bear sightings. As mentioned above, rangers may close certain trails if there have been too many sightings in the recent past.
Though I saw a warning about bears frequenting Granite Park, the trail was thankfully open during my visit.
Bears generally want to avoid humans, and if they hear people coming in advance, they tend to get out of the way (though not always). The Highline Trail is quite popular, which slightly reduces your chances of bear encounters.
The latter portions of the hike, however, get a lot quieter, and you may find yourself alone at times. That’s why having bear spray and researching bear safety is a must before your trip to Glacier.
The Highline Trail gets quite adventurous early on, as you’ll soon find yourself walking along the cliff face of the massive Garden Wall.
The Garden Wall, in fact, is part of the continental divide, a line of mountains which separates where water either drains into the Atlantic or Pacific.
The Going-to-the-Sun Road was carved into a lower portion of the Garden Wall, and you’ll actually be overlooking it during the beginning of the hike.
The cliff face can get quite narrow, and there’s even a cable to hold onto just in case. But unless you have a terrible fear of heights, walking here isn’t as intimidating as it might look in pictures.
You will, however, have to occasionally pause to allow hikers coming from the other direction to pass. As mentioned above, many people do the Highline Trail as a shorter out-and-back hike.
Admittedly, as cool as walking along the Garden Wall was, I wasn’t sure what to think of the Highline Trail in the beginning. That’s largely because the lighting is not ideal in this section of the hike in the early morning.
But as the sun gradually makes its ascent in the sky, you’ll start getting clearer views of the valley. If you’ve already made the journey across Going-to-the-Sun Road and wish you could’ve gone much slower to take everything in, you’ll definitely want to hike the Highline Trail!
One of the top highlights of any hike at Glacier National Park is the chance to see wildlife. And the Highline Trail doesn’t disappoint. Shortly before my arrival at Haystack Butte, I spotted a group of bighorn sheep from fairly close up.
Male bighorn sheep, which can weigh up to 30 pounds, are known for their large horns. They’re also very adept at climbing steep terrain. And they’re even regarded as the symbol of the park.
While I didn’t spot any, another common animal on the Highline Trail are mountain goats. And as we’ll cover shortly, deer are plentiful as well.
The first few miles of the hike are quite flat and easy. But the ascent up Haystack Butte is arguably the most challenging part of the hike until the final descent (unless, of course, you opt to do the Grinnell Glacier overlook).
On the way there, we passed a large snow patch that managed to survive throughout the summer. Next came the relatively steep ascent. But while tiring, I didn’t find it nearly as exhausting as the Grinnell Glacier hike I completed a few days prior.
Reaching the other side, the views of the valley are absolutely stunning. You should also be able to enjoy a clear view of Heaven’s Peak, which reaches up to 8,991 feet (2,740 m) above sea level.
All in all, the Highline Trail is a pretty straightforward hike. But at Haystack Pass, there’s a slight confusing part where the trail forks. Just be sure to follow the AllTrails map and you should be fine.
What follows is a hike akin to what you experienced during the first few miles. But by this point in the day, the sun should be high enough in the sky to illuminate the whole valley. And you’ll likely find yourself constantly pausing to look around at the jaw-dropping scenery.
As evidenced by the crazy parking situation at Logan Pass, the Highline Trail is one of Glacier’s most popular hikes. And I did indeed encounter a lot of other hikers in the beginning of the hike. But the farther I got past Haystack Butte, the quieter the trail became.
As mentioned, many people do this as an out-and-back hike, turning around wherever they please. And that’s fine, as the real highlight of this hike is just enjoying the scenery rather than scaling a peak or reaching a particular landmark.
With that said, this hike is relatively flat and relaxing, so why not just do it until the end?
Turning a corner, I spotted a beautiful deer right along the trail. The deer here seem quite used to people, as he seemed completely unfazed by my presence.
The main destination of the standard Highline Trail hike, the Granite Park Chalet, is about 7.6 miles from the trailhead. But shortly before that, you’ll have the option of making a detour to the Grinnell Glacier overlook.
If you’re still in the early stages of your Glacier research, this can be a bit confusing. The hike to Grinnell Glacier is another one of the park’s most famous hikes. But that’s a hike that begins in the Many Glacier district.
This overlook, on the other hand, does indeed offer you a few of the same Grinnell Glacier, albeit from the opposite side and from much higher up.
And those who make the 1.2-mile (2 km) roundtrip detour to the overlook consider it the most strenuous part of the Highline Trail hike.
But in my case, I decided to skip it for one main reason.
I had just done the grueling Grinnell Glacier hike a few days before hiking the Highline Trail. As such, I didn’t feel guilty about skipping the detour to see the same landmark I’d previously hiked uphill for hours to see.
Looking back, however, I do wish I’d done it. While it surely can’t compare with being able to get right up to the glacier and the lake below it, the Grinnell Glacier Overlook does indeed offer an alternative and unique vantage point.
In any case, whether you make the detour to the overlook or not, it’s shortly past the fork in the trail that you’ll be able to see Granite Park in the distance.
The Granite Park Chalet was built in 1914-15 by the Great Northern Railway Corporation to provide lodging for backcountry hikers. And it’s still even possible to stay there to this day. Otherwise, you can step inside to purchase some beverages or use the restroom.
At the time of my hike, all I was thinking about was making it to The Loop and calling it a day, as this was the very last hike of my exhausting six-week road trip.
But I now realize that it’s from Granite Park that hikers can take a 1.8-mile roundtrip detour to Swiftcurrent Pass, which is said to be one of the park’s most stunning viewpoints. Just watch out for bears!
Interestingly, from Granite Park, one could actually walk all the way down to Bullhead Lake and Red Rock Falls in the Many Glacier district!
But even if you somehow had the energy, with your car at Apgar or Logan Pass, and with the shuttle system only running along Going-to-the-Sun Road, it’s not clear how you’d get back.
The Descent Via The Granite Park Trail
Frankly speaking, the descent via the Granite Park Trail can’t compare with anything you’ve seen along the main Highline Trail. It does offer some pretty views, though, even if trees often get in the way.
In comparison with the mostly flat hike up to this point, the sudden steep descent is rather jarring. And at 4 miles (6.4 km), it’s not exactly a quick journey, either. With that in mind, though it would be a longer total hike, don’t feel like you’re missing out much by doing the Highline Trail as an out-and-back hike.
As you make your way down the Granite Park Trail, it should start to become clear why almost everyone recommends you NOT start the hike from The Loop. On my way down, I did actually run into a few hikers that were doing it uphill, but they didn’t seem pleased with their decision.
And thankfully, despite warnings about bear sightings in the area, I didn’t happen to encounter any. With few people on the trail, I had to make sure to repeatedly stop and loudly clap so that I wouldn’t catch a bear by surprise – something they hate.
Near the bottom, you’ll encounter a bridge over a rocky creek. Some visitors come here for a swim. But though it seemed tempting, I just wanted to get back as soon as possible.
Only a few minutes past the bridge, you’ll find yourself at Going-to-the-Sun Road and The Loop parking lot.
As mentioned, if you managed to park at Logan Pass in the morning, you’ll want to wait for an uphill shuttle to take you back there. In my case, I’d taken the shuttle the entire way, so I waited for a downhill shuttle bound for Apgar. (Of course, you could also take the shuttle from the east in the morning, starting at the St. Mary Visitor Center.)
As no express buses were running in the afternoon, we had to transfer to a bigger one at Avalanche. I then finally made it back to the Apgar Visitor Center at 14:45 in the afternoon.
If you start the Highline Trail early in the morning, you should still have some time left over for another short hike or something like a boat tour.
Or, for a total change of pace, consider visiting the Montana Vortex and House of Mystery in Columbia Falls. Whether you end up convinced or not, you’re unlikely to regret your visit.
Additional Info
When staying on Glacier’s western side, one possibility is to stay in the park, either at Apgar or Lake McDonald Lodge. But park accommodation doesn’t come cheap.
The nearest town outside of park boundaries is West Glacier. Lodges like Paddle Ridge are quite popular, while the Belton Chalet is a bit more affordable.
The largest town near the park is Kalispell, which is also home to the nearest airport: Glacier Park International Airport. Kalispell is just about 45 minutes from Glacier’s West Entrance. In Kalispell, My Place Hotel and Super 8 are highly-rated and cheaper than their competitors.
Whitefish is another popular option, as it’s home to the nearest Amtrak station. You’ll find both rental apartments, such as Montana Style Downtown Condo, as well as hotels like the Best Western.
During my stay on Glacier’s west side, I stayed in the town of Columbia Falls. It was close enough to reach the Apgar early in the morning to catch the first shuttle of the day in order to hike the Highline Trail. In Columbia Falls, one of the better deals is Meadow Lake Resort & Condos.
There are also numerous other small towns along Highway 2 that you can choose from. Just be sure to calculate the driving distance to the park before confirming your booking.
As we’ll cover in our detailed Glacier planning guide, regardless of where you stay, you’ll want to make your reservations at least several months in advance.
When it comes to choosing accommodation at or near Glacier National Park, you have the choice of staying on the west side of the park or on the east side.
Given the park’s geography, it would be wise to spend some time on both sides of the park throughout the duration of your trip. The east side provides access to the Many Glacier District, the Two Medicine district, the Canadian border (to visit Waterton Lakes), and of course, the east entrance to Going-to-the-Sun Road.
I stayed in the small town of Babb, which is just a thirty-minute drive from Many Glacier. I stayed at the Glacier Elkhorn Cabins and Campground which I’d highly recommend. Accommodation throughout Montana is surprisingly expensive, and that’s especially true of places near the park. With that in mind, Elkhorn is a great value.
While the bathroom was shared, it was a short walk from my cabin. There’s also an on-site restaurant, while the owners can provide great information about the area. As the name suggests, you can also camp here if a cabin is beyond your budget.
Elsewhere on the east side of Glacier is the town of St. Mary. It’s about 30 minutes from the Many Glacier Hotel and it’s also situated near the east entrance to the Going-to-the-Sun Road. Other than St. Mary Village and Duck Lake Lodge, however, there don’t seem to be too many places that are bookable online.
Of course, you can also stay within Many Glacier itself, either at the iconic Many Glacier Hotel or at the smaller Swiftcurrent Motor Inn.
After camping for four nights at Yellowstone, I wasn’t in the mood to do so here, but the area is also home to the Many Glacier Campground. It’s just next to the Swiftcurrent Motor Inn and you can make bookings here.
At the time of writing, Glacier National Park costs $35 per vehicle to enter (learn more here).
US National Parks parks typically charge per vehicle rather than per person. However, if you’re traveling by bicycle instead, they’ll charge you for an individual pass which costs $20, while those on motorcycles will be charged $30.
(*Note: These are just the fees for the park entrance passes, which on their own do NOT grant you access to certain areas like Many Glacier or North Fork. Learn more about vehicle reservations in our dedicated Glacier planning guide.)
Considering how many National Parks and National Monuments there are to see in the Southwest alone, the best option for most will be to buy an ‘America the Beautiful’ Annual National Parks Pass.
These cost $80 for the year. In most cases, you’re already saving money by just visiting four National Parks/Monuments anywhere in the country within a full year.
What’s more, is that only one person in your vehicle needs to have the pass. Additionally, seniors can buy the pass for just $20. So if you have someone over 62 in your party, just have them get the annual pass and everyone else will be set.
As for where to get the pass, you can purchase it in person at most National Parks or Monuments. But you can also order it in advance online.