Last Updated on: 12th June 2024, 12:51 am
Belize’s various Mayan sites aren’t always that easy or cheap to reach. One major exception, however, would be Cahal Pech – just about thirty minutes on foot from the tourism hub of San Ignacio. And while one might suspect that the Cahal Pech ruins would be rather small and insignificant, that’s far from the case.
The site is most known for its well-preserved palatial complex which is perhaps the only surviving building complex of its kind in the Mayan world.
At the end of this guide to the Cahal Pech ruins, you can also learn more about reaching San Ignacio and where to stay at the end of the article. But first, let’s cover a bit of history:
First occupied from around 1200 BC, Cahal Pech would really start to take form from the Middle Preclassic Period (900-300 BC). The city then began flourishing in the Late Preclassic Period (33 BC–300 AD), and a few of the existing buildings we see today date from this time.
But most of the existing structures date to around 600-800 AD during the Late Classic Period. About 10-20,000 people lived in Cahal Pech at the time, while archaeologists believe that Cahal Pech would’ve had contact with Caracol and Xunantunich, not to mention other nearby cities.
Construction at Cahal Pech, however, would mysteriously stop around the end of the 9th century. The circumstances remain unclear, and it’s especially puzzling considering how nearby sites would continue to thrive.
As was often the case with abandoned Mayan cities, Cahal Pech would continue to be visited by religious pilgrims for centuries after.
Though Mayan, the name is not original and means ‘Place of the Ticks,’ which was coined in the 1950s during early excavations. While ticks were indeed prevalent here at the time, that’s fortunately no longer the case.
Visiting Cahal Pech
At the time of writing, Cahal Pech costs $10 BZ ($5 US) to enter, while the site is open daily from 8:00-17:00.
A visit to Cahal Pech begins with a walk through the on-site museum which you’ll have to traverse before reaching the ruins. It’s a nice little museum but largely informational in nature, containing only a handful of artifacts.
I began my visit in the eastern section of the site in the area known as Plaza C (confusingly, the on-site map depicts the east to the left). This area contains multiple pyramidal structures, some of which are shared with Plaza B on the other side.
Incredibly, some of these buildings are believed to be over 2,000 years old.
And it’s also here that you’ll find the East Ball Court. As we’ll cover below, there’s an additional one at the far opposite end of the site.
Pretty much all Mayan cities contained one or more ball court where the athletic and ritualistic Mesoamerican ball game would be played.
Coming around the corner, you’ll enter Cahal Pech’s largest plaza, Plaza B. And it’s here that you can see the front end of some of the structures visible from Plaza C.
The largest of all the plazas at Cahal Pech, Plaza B takes up a total of 50 square meters.
As convenient as it is for Cahal Pech to be so close to the town of San Ignacio, its proximity comes with a downside – at least for tourists. At the time of my visit, staff were setting up various tables, tents and even a little stage in the middle of the plaza!
As such, I was unable to enjoy unobstructed views of many of Plaza B’s structures. In any case, the largest pyramid here is Structure B1 which reaches up to 12 meters. Numerous tombs were discovered within.
At the opposite end of the plaza is a wide staircase with a temple at the top, officially known as Structure A2. The doorway leads to the large palatial complex, but you can also access the area from the left.
The southern end of the site is home to Plaza G, and its sunken plaza. While I didn’t manage to capture it on film, it was here that I happened to see a wild agouti, which a large rodent about the size of a small dog!
Moving on, I approached the exterior of Plaza E. And it’s here that I encountered something I’d never seen before at all the dozens of Mayan sites I’ve visited.
Typically, most doors you’ll find at Mayan ruins just lead to a single chamber with no other exit. And that is indeed the case with some of the doors here.
But uniquely, many of the doors here also lead to additional hallways and rooms, resulting in what feels like a labyrinth. And with multiple options to choose from, you’ll have to backtrack repeatedly to make sure you’ve seen everything.
Not only are there multiple pathways to choose from, but the various rooms are also spread out across multiple levels. This large and complicated palatial complex is what makes Cahal Pech so unique and a must-visit attraction for Mayan ruins lovers.
Within the palace area, you’ll find Plazas E, D, C and A. And arriving at the upper level, I found myself at Plaza D.
Plaza D is home to a multi-chambered structure and a sunken plaza. Again, it was quite unique to see this type of layout on the upper level of a multistory building.
And it’s also up here that you’ll find an additional pyramid. Though I didn’t notice early on in my visit, the structure is actually climbable via a staircase on the side.
The views from the top would likely give you a clear vantage point of the entire site. But by the time I realized this, a large group of school kids had arrived and occupied the top.
The largest section of the palatial complex is Plaza A, which consists of a massive sunken plaza and is located on the opposite side of Structure A2 mentioned above.
Numerous staircases take one down to the bottom of the plaza, while the upper levels are surrounded by multi-roomed chambers. It’s not entirely clear what everything was used for, but it appears to have been both ceremonial and residential.
On the other side of Plaza A, don’t miss the staircase taking you down to the lower level, which is also the far west end of the archaeological site. Here you’ll find an additional ball court, not to mention some tranquil forested paths.
Next, I headed back up the steps and proceeded to exit via Structure A2. By this point, dozens of people were already gathered for whatever event was set to take place in Plaza B, and so I decided to head for the exit.
While it would’ve been nice without the crowds, Cahal Pech is still one of the most unique Mayan archaeological sites I’ve visited, and it was especially impressive considering how it was within easy walking distance of a town.
Though I didn’t end up visiting, the site of Lower Dover – about thirty minutes east of San Ignacio by bus – is said to have been built almost as a mirror of Cahal Pech. But it’s still hardly been excavated.
Furthermore, if you plan to visit, you should call them in advance to let them know. There are modern lodgings just next to the ruins, and it’s the hotel that manages the archaeological site and offers tours. Based on a phone conversation with them, there’s no official charge, though a donation is expected.
Additional Info
Despite only having a population of 25,000, San Ignacio is one of Belize’s most popular towns for tourism so there’s no shortage of places to stay. It’s also easily one of the country’s most charming towns.
I stayed at the Don Santiago Guesthouse, where I paid about $33 USD per night for a room with a private bathroom and air conditioning. The location was perfect, while the owner was very easygoing and helpful.
Other relatively affordable options in the center include Arnold’s Guest House and Venus Hotel.
If you’re already in Belize, you’ll first need to get to Belize City. Though on the opposite side of the country, San Ignacio is situated along the George Price Highway which connects it to Belize City and Belmopan.
The bus journey from Belize City should cost about $10 BZ ($5 USD). I’m not sure if there are faster buses available, but the bus seemed to stop every thirty seconds during my journey, either to drop someone off or let someone on. In total, the journey ended up lasting 2.5 hours.
As San Ignacio is located right by the border with Guatemala, a lot of travelers will be coming from Flores. You should easily be able to book a shuttle to Belize on the ground in Flores. But if you prefer the peace of mind of having something booked in advance, you can do so here.