Last Updated on: 2nd June 2024, 09:09 pm
Xunantunich is one of Belize’s best archaeological sites, and it’s also one of the easiest and cheapest to reach. Like many Mayan sites in Belize, the Xunantunich ruins are comprised of just a few plazas, as much of it has yet to be excavated. But what really makes it stand out is its unique main pyramid which likely served multiple functions in its prime.
For information on reaching Xunantunich and the best places to stay in the town of San Ignacio, be sure to check the end of the article.
But first, a bit of history:
Xunantunich means ‘Stone Maiden,’ though its name is not original. It stems from a 19th-century local legend about a man who witnessed an apparition of a beautiful maiden emerging from an opening in the main pyramid. While we don’t know the site’s original name, we do know a few things about its past.
Human activity here goes back to 3000 BC, though major development wouldn’t take place until the Middle Preclassic Period (900-300 BC),
Many of the larger buildings we see today were built from the 7th century AD, while another building spree occurred in the 8th century. In 744, the city of Naranjo (present-day Guatemala) took over Xunantunich following their defeat of Caracol. Naranjo would then commission construction projects at Xunantunich before they were eventually defeated by Tikal.
From around 780-850 AD, Xunantunich would rule itself, while the city finally began to decline from around the 9th century. But even after its abandonment, the site would continue to be visited by religious pilgrims.
Crossing the River
To get to Xunantunich, you’ll first have to take a river ferry. Fortunately, this is totally free, so there’s no need to haggle with a boat driver. (Learn how to reach the river ferry from San Ignacio below.)
If you have a car, you’re in luck, as you can also take your car across the river and then drive right up to the site. But if you don’t, as was my case, don’t fret. It’s just about a one-mile walk along a quiet road until you reach the site entrance.
While the weather was manageable upon my arrival in the early morning, the return trek in the afternoon was another story, as it would reach 40° that day! Needless to say, be sure to bring plenty of water.
Visiting the Xunantunich Ruins
The Xunantunich ruins are open daily from 8:00-17:00 and cost $10 BZ ($5 USD) for foreigners.
As mentioned above, Xunantunich is not particularly large which can make it feel rather crowded once the tour groups show up. As such, it would be wise to arrive early in the morning – both to beat the crowds and the heat.
Past the ticket gate, you’ll briefly walk uphill, passing your the first excavated structure on your left. While not clear, it appears to have been some kind of palace or perhaps temple.
Unfortunately, there isn’t much on-site signage at Xunantunich, though it is possible to hire a guide near the river ferry (or book one in advance).
Reaching the main area, you’ll see a pyramid to your left and a large staircase to your right. The staircase leads to an elevated plaza known as A-III, which you can either check out at the beginning or save for last.
I decided to start my explorations here, and upon ascending the platform,I spotted the pyramid known as Structure A11 straight ahead.
Archaeologists still aren’t sure of the pyramid’s true function, with some suggesting it served as the main residence of a Xunantunich royal family.
Others, meanwhile, believe it replaced El Castillo (the site’s tallest structure) as the city’s main pyramid during the time it was dominated by Naranjo.
Speaking of El Castillo, which is still adorned by stucco friezes (more below), this one was likely once adorned by friezes as well. But they’re now long gone.
Next, I came down from the plaza and proceeded toward the center of the site. Blocking my way was a pyramid known as Structure A1. There are also more buildings on either side of it, and I decided to start by walking around A1’s right side.
I soon encountered another pyramidal structure known as A9. Looking closely, you’ll observe both an opening in the center along with preserved hieroglyphic stelae on either side of the staircase.
Fascinatingly, the hieroglyphs found here likely originated at Caracol. But how did they end up here?
As mentioned above, Xunantunich saw a brief construction boom following the city of Naranjo’s defeat of Caracol. And the rulers of Naranjo looted a hieroglyphic stairway from there, with some parts of it ending up at Xunantunich!
And A9 itself may have been dedicated to a fallen soldier who was involved in that battle.
Moving on, you’ll soon pass through one of the city’s ball courts. If you’re new to Mayan sites, ball courts can be found at every ancient Mayan city, as well as at sites belonging to just about every other Mesoamerican civilization.
The game was highly symbolic and ritualistic, with the bouncing rubber ball symbolizing the movements of the cosmos. But disturbingly, following certain important matches, the winners would be decapitated! This was seen as a straight ticket to heaven.
From the ball court, you’ll be able to access the top of Structure A1. It’s well worth the climb up, as the views from here are some of the best you’ll find at Xunantunich.
It’s from here that you can enjoy a clear view of the massive pyramid known as ‘El Castillo’ across the plaza. As we’ll cover shortly, visitors can indeed climb all the way to the top.
But first, I decided to check out the other remaining structures. Little information exists about the pyramid A7, but archaeological excavations reveal an inner stucco-covered staircase beneath the outer stone exterior.
Many Mayan pyramids, in fact, were repeatedly built over throughout their lifespan.
As mentioned above, there are also some additional buildings on the opposite side of Structure A1. The pyramids known as A2, A3 and A4 all look remarkably similar to one another and were built in a neat row.
El Castillo
Next, it was finally time to explore El Castillo. The word simply means ‘Castle’ in Spanish, and is a modern generic title given to numerous Mayan pyramids.
But even if you’ve been to plenty of other Mayan sites, this particular El Castillo is a bit a different.
As mentioned, the pyramid is climbable, and you’ll find paths on either side of it, while you’ll also have access to the central staircase.
At other famous Mayan pyramids, the central staircase often leads directly to a temple at the top. But as opposed to purely religious, this one is believed to have been a multipurpose structure, serving religious, residential and governmental functions.
About halfway up, you’ll encounter a long building that likely served as an audience chamber. Its thirteen doorways probably symbolized the thirteen layers of heaven in Mayan cosmology.
Then, making your way higher, you’ll reach the base of what appears to be a distinct pyramid at the very top of the structure.
One of the things Xunantunich’s main pyramid is most known for is its detailed stucco friezes. Originally, these friezes would’ve covered all four sides of the pyramid, though today only the east frieze and parts of the west frieze survive.
While the original artwork is still on the pyramid, they’re concealed beneath modern reproductions. Otherwise, the original decorations would deteriorate under this harsh humid climate.
The faces at either end represent the World Tree, which was seen throughout the Mayan world as the link between the Three Worlds: our world, the underworld and the heavens.
Other faces, meanwhile, represent the Moon Goddess, the rain god Chaak, and Bacabs, or skybearers, who were meant to support the celestial throne of the king.
Continuing further up the structure, you’ll get a clear view of a rectangular sunken plaza below. You’ll then find yourself walking through vaulted rooms.
Out of all the Mayan pyramids I’ve had the privilege of climbing, this is the first I encountered that had rooms at an upper level with their roofs still intact.
Coming out the other side, you’ll be able to climb up to the pyramid’s top level. During my visit, it was a sweltering 40° C by this point of the day, so this was no easy climb! But still, the views were worth it.
El Castillo stands at 42 m high and remains one of the tallest structures in all of Belize. From the top, you can enjoy a clear view of all the structures mentioned above, in addition to the nearby jungles of Guatemala.
Over to the side, meanwhile, is structure A20, a shrine where the royal family would perform private rituals. Built sometime in the 9th century, it’s considered to be one of Xunantunich’s last structures.
Interestingly, its circular columns are rare in Belize and are more commonly found in the northern Yucatán. This suggests a strong influence from that region during Xunantunich’s final days.
Coming back down, I noticed some more unexcavated mounds at the other end of the site. But walking through the forest to get a better look, I realized that there wasn’t much to see.
Also to the west of El Castillo is yet another ball court that’s even slightly more impressive than the one mentioned above.
Supposedly, there are additional areas of unexcavated mounds in more remote parts of the site, but given the extreme heat, I decided to call it a day.
The Museum
Like many Mayan sites in Belize, Xunantunich features an on-site museum that’s well worth checking out. If you’re arriving in the morning, it would be wise to save it until the end so you can beat the crowds at the ruins.
This museum’s strong point is mainly its information on the history of the site and various Mayan customs. But in terms of objects, you’ll find some original hieroglyphs as well as ball court markers.
All in all, Xunantunich is an excellent site that could be considered one of Belize’s top destinations. While there are plenty of other attractions around the Cayo district, be sure to set time aside for a visit here during your stay in San Ignacio.
Additional Info
Getting to Xunantunich from San Ignacio is pretty straightforward. Xunantunich is situated near the border with Guatemala, and many shared taxis ride up and down the highway to bring people to and from the border.
As such, you simply need to hop in one of these shared taxis and tell the driver to let you off at the river crossing for Xunantunich. You can find them heading down Bullet Tree Road in front of Martha’s Guest House.
The confusing part is that most of these shared taxis are completely unlabelled cars. The key is to look at the license plate, which should start with ‘BVO.’
Furthermore, as a foreigner, you’re going to have to haggle a bit, or even speak with several different taxis before you get a fair price. Locals normally pay $3 BZ, but as my hotel owner explained, foreigners would be lucky to get $5 BZ.
The third driver I spoke with quoted me $7 BZ but I was able to bring it down to $5. Though it was supposed to be a shared taxi, nobody else got in throughout the entire ride. And I grew a little concerned, as I’ve dealt with shared taxi drivers in Mexico that dropped me off last and then tried to act as if I’d just taken a private taxi.
Furthermore, my driver, who was quite friendly, told me a shocking story of how he was robbed and nearly killed by a local passenger not long prior. While the story seemed real, I wondered if he was priming me to accept a higher price once we arrived.
But no, in the end, he simply accepted the $5 BZ and went on his way. I guess the bad news is that the disturbing story he told me was most likely true!
Coming back, you should easily be able to find shared taxis along the same highway.
If all that sounds like a hassle, you can also just take an organized tour from San Ignacio.
Despite only having a population of 25,000, San Ignacio is one of Belize’s most popular towns for tourism so there’s no shortage of places to stay. It’s also easily one of the country’s most charming towns.
I stayed at the Don Santiago Guesthouse, where I paid about $33 USD per night for a room with a private bathroom and air conditioning. The location was perfect, while the owner was very easygoing and helpful.
Other relatively affordable options in the center include Arnold’s Guest House and Venus Hotel.
If you’re already in Belize, you’ll first need to get to Belize City. Though on the opposite side of the country, San Ignacio is situated along the George Price Highway which connects it to Belize City and Belmopan.
The bus journey from Belize City should cost about $10 BZ ($5 USD). I’m not sure if there are faster buses available, but the bus seemed to stop every thirty seconds during my journey, either to drop someone off or let someone on. In total, the journey ended up lasting 2.5 hours.
As San Ignacio is located right by the border with Guatemala, a lot of travelers will be coming from Flores. You should easily be able to book a shuttle to Belize on the ground in Flores. But if you prefer the peace of mind of having something booked in advance, you can do so here.