Visiting The Obscure Mayan Ruins of Zaculeu

Last Updated on: 21st July 2024, 07:17 pm

Zaculeu is one of Guatemala’s lesser-known Mayan sites but also one of its most unique. The ruins are situated just outside the city of Huehuetenango, located between Xela and the Mexican border. That makes Zaculeu far from the easiest archaeological site to reach, but is it worth it?

In the following guide, we’ll be covering the history of the ancient city along with a summary of each section of the archaeological site. And at the end of the article, you can learn more about how to reach Zaculeu and thoughts on whether or not it’s worth going out of your way to visit.

Zaculeu: A Brief History

Occupied since the Early Classic Period (250–600 AD), Zaculeu was the capital of the Mam Kingdom, a lesser-known branch of Mayans who have long occupied the western highlands of Guatemala. 

Many of its major buildings date to the Classic Period (250–900 AD), and Zaculeu would gradually expand over the next several centuries.

The Mam were longtime rivals of the K’iche Maya. And though archaeologists still debate the precise year, the K’iche would conquer Zaculeu sometime in the Postclassic Period (900-1525).

 Skirmishes between the K’iche and Mam would persist until the arrival of the Spanish in 1525 when the longtime rivals appear to have formed an alliance in response to the new threat. This was not always the case, as another one of the K’iche’s rivals, the Kaqchikel, actually aligned themselves with the conquistadors around this time.

Both the K’iche and Mam worked together to fend off a Spanish attack, though many would die of starvation and the Mayan alliance would ultimately be forced to surrender. Zaculeu would end up abandoned, with the Spanish constructing the new city of Huehuetenango to take its place.

Later on, the site would be visited in 1840 by legendary explorers John Lloyd Stephens and Frederick Catherwood. But excavations wouldn’t begin until a century later when they were carried out by the United Fruit Company.

The company’s involvement with archaeology was partly a public relations move to help improve its image in the region, and its restoration project remains controversial to this day.

Though the United Fruit Company assembled an international and experienced team, some of the reconstructions were simply imaginings of how certain structures may have looked and not based off of actual evidence.

They also covered all of the structures in a mix of stucco and concrete which gives Zaculeu a different look and feel to most other Mesoamerican sites. In ancient times, however, visitors would’ve never been able to see the exposed stone we see today at most ruins.

Decades later, the excavation and restoration efforts that took place at Zaculeu in the 1940s are still criticized. But while some of the criticism is indeed warranted, one wonders if the project would’ve sparked nearly as much outrage if it was handled by anyone aside from the United Fruit Company.

Restoration aside, Zaculeu represents an interesting mix of the Mam and K’cihe city layouts, with some structures even demonstrating influence from Central Mexico.

Exploring The Zaculeu Ruins

At the time of writing, Zaculeu is open daily from 8:00-16:30 and costs 50Q for foreigners to enter.

All in all, Zaculeu is quite small and could probably be fully explored in under an hour. But even minor archaeological sites in Guatemala can get crowded, so you may have to do some waiting around for the crowds to clear.

Beginning at Plaza 2’s Structure 4 at the southeastern end of the site, I proceeded to explore Zaculeu in a clockwise direction, which is how we’ll be covering the structures below.

Plaza 2

Zaculeu Ruins
Structure 4 from below
Zaculeu Ruins

Shortly past the ticket gate is Structure 4 at the edge of Plaza 2, one of Zaculeu’s most interesting – and controversial – pieces of architecture. 

The core of the structure is a large pyramidal platform which features a temple at its top, while on either side of it are long columned halls which have barely been restored. 

Zaculeu Ruins

The facade of the upper temple appears to be completely modern. Supposedly, it was built by the United Fruit Company team based on how they suspected the original may have looked, despite no such evidence of the temple’s original appearance – or its height – existing.

Zaculeu Ruins

Like many structures at Zaculeu, Structure 4 is climbable. Visitors can step inside the temple and view its rooms, along with a rare circular structure in the back. Presumably, it was part of the original structure.

Plaza 1 as seen from the top of Structure 4

From the top of Structure 4 one can view the entirety of Zaculeu. Looking to your right, you’ll see Plaza 1, while straight ahead is the remainder of Plaza 2, and behind it, the ball court.

Looking out at Plaza 2 and beyond

In the center of Plaza 2 is a set of ceremonial platforms. Structure 17 is the largest of the bunch, and it consists of two tiers with a temple at its top.

Zaculeu Ruins
Structure 17

The Ball Court & Surroundings

Ball courts can be found at pretty much every Mesoamerican site, and those making the effort to visit an obscure site like Zaculeu have probably been to at least several others. 

But whether you like it or not, the stucco and concrete coating of this court makes it stand out. The smooth finish, in fact, is closer to how most ball courts would’ve looked in their prime.

Zaculeu Ruins

Visitors can even climb up the staircase and walk along the top of the structure. From here, you can enjoy excellent views of the entire site.

Zaculeu Ruins
Zaculeu Ruins

To the south and west of the court are a series of unexcavated mounds, the most notable being Structure. 2. 

Behind the ball court, meanwhile, are Plazas 5-7, all of which are small and mostly unexcavated. Nevertheless, they’re still fascinating to explore to get a sense of Zaculeu’s original size.

Zaculeu Ruins
Structure 2
Zaculeu Ruins

Plaza 4

Over to the north is Plaza 4. This spacious plaza is also largely unexcavated and remains covered in grass. The most prominent structure here is Structure 10, a massive rectangular platform. But at first glance, it appears as a grassy mound.

Measuring out to 52 m long, it was likely topped with a single long gallery.

Zaculeu Ruins
Zaculeu Ruins
Plaza 4, with Structure 10 on the right

Interestingly, while criticism of the United Fruit Company’s work is still being expressed eighty years later, a significant portion of Zaculeu remains unexcavated to this day.

Why don’t critics organize their own team to excavate the remainder of the site according to modern protocol?

Plaza 1

Zaculeu Ruins

Plaza 1 is easily the highlight of Zaculeu. Clearly visible from the other sections of the site, I decided to save it for last.

The plaza is home to Structure 1, Zaculeu’s main pyramid. Reaching up to 12 m, it almost resembles a miniature version Chichén Itzá‘s El Castillo, albeit with a staircase on only one side. 

While both Mayan, one wonders how much – if any – communication these city-states had with each other during their primes. 

Zaculeu Ruins

The pyramid consists of eight tiers, and it uniquely features a set of parallel staircases with tiered platforms in between them. 

And these central tiers clearly served some kind of ceremonial function, as they contain what appears to be an altar and a circular basin for holding liquids or offerings.

Zaculeu Ruins

Looking down at the rest of the plaza, you’ll see two platforms in its center, along with an unexcavated pyramid known as Structure 9 directly across.

And over to your right, you’ll see Structure 6. This is one of Zaculeu’s larger buildings, and it too can be climbed.

Zaculeu Ruins
Zaculeu Ruins
The view from Structure 1
Structure 6
Zaculeu Ruins
Zaculeu Ruins

Consisting of four tiers, the upper portion contains the remnants of a temple. Structure 6 is another excellent place to enjoy views of Plaza 1. And looking to your right, you’ll see some unexcavated mounds which could possibly be another ball court.

Zaculeu Ruins
Structure 1 as seen from Structure 6

On the opposite side of Plaza 1, meanwhile, is Structure 13. While one of the site’s smaller major structures, it can still be climbed for great views, and it too once featured a temple at its top.

Zaculeu Ruins
Structure 13

The Museum

Before leaving, be sure to check out the on-site museum, situated near the main entrance. While in Spanish only, you’ll find some information about the history of the site, and how Zaculeu made an appearance on the TV show Tarzan in the 1960s.

Zaculeu Ruins

And of course, you’ll find various findings discovered in tombs throughout the site – primarily the tomb discovered beneath Structure 1.

Objects include various ceramics, stone carvings and censers created in the shape of deities.

Zaculeu Ruins
Zaculeu Ruins

Additional Info

Zaculeu is situated just outside the city of Huehuetenango in Guatemala’s Western Highlands. Travelers entering Guatemala from Chiapas, Mexico typically pass through Huehuetenango, as it’s the closest major town to either the La Mesilla or Gracias a Dios border crossings.

Unfortunately, as I don’t have experience crossing into Guatemala this way, I can’t comment on specific details. I can, however, provide details of reaching Huehuetenango from Xela (Quetzaltenango).

But first, keep in mind that while by no means cheap, you have the option to reach Zaculeu by private tour if public transport sounds like too much of a hassle.

Reaching Huehuetenango from Xela

Surprisingly, Huehuetenango can be reached directly from Xela without the need for any transfers. It’s a long and tiring journey, however – especially if you’ll be going there and back on the same day.

In Xela, you’ll first want to head to the Minerva Terminal in the western part of the city. All of the buses here are ‘chicken buses,’ or converted American school buses.

Note that some of the buses that have ‘Huehuetenango’ displayed on their front windows won’t actually be going there, so it’s necessary to ask around. Locals often call it ‘Huehue’ for short.

Though there are no official timetables, in my case, we departed shortly after I boarded the bus at around 8:20 in the morning. The full ride to Huehuetenango costs 35Q, though the payment system was a little confusing.

Previously, I’d taken shorter chicken bus rides on which the staff would bring change within a few minutes. But here, on this three-hour journey, those paying with bigger bills will get tickets with how much change they’re owed written on them. And near the end of the ride, someone will come around and collect these tickets and give everyone their correct change.

Chicken bus rides can get terribly uncomfortable as you get closer to the main destination, as sometimes three people will squeeze into a single seat! Also, expect lots of stops and waiting around in random towns with zero explanations.

While chicken buses are affordable and sometimes the only option, there’s a reason why the whole tourist shuttle industry needs to exist in Central America!

Reaching Zaculeu from Huehuetenango

We finally reached Huehuetenango at around 11:45. Note that the bus terminal is located far from the city center. Though technically walkable, you’ll probably want to go to the main road and take a local bus toward the center (about 3Q).

You don’t want to go to the city’s central plaza, but a smaller park known as Salvador Osorio. It’s from here that the Zaculeu-bound buses depart. As a lot of different buses pass through the area, it’s best to ask a local where you should stand, as there’s zero signage.

Before long, I saw a big bus with Zaculeu written on it, and asked if it was going to the ruins. It’s important to ask, as many of them don’t, and I was told by the driver to keep waiting.

Another 15 minutes or so later, a bus arrived with nothing written on it, so I just ignored it at first. But I later realized that the conductor was saying ‘Las Ruinas’ when shouting out the names of the destinations. I asked the driver to confirm, and sure enough, they were going to Zaculeu.

The drive takes just about 10-15 minutes and costs 4Q. The bus will drop you right outside the site.

To get back, simply wait along the road outside the ruins and follow the steps mentioned above in reverse. While locals are kind and helpful, I would not recommend this excursion to anyone who doesn’t at least speak survival Spanish.

Having departed at around 8:00 in the morning, I didn’t arrive back in Xela until evening, despite only needing a little over an hour to see the ruins. So, was it all worth it?

If you’ll be entering Guatemala overland from Mexico and your travel plans have you passing through Huehuetenango, then it’s well worth setting some time aside to see Zaculeu. But if you’re considering coming as a day trip from Xela (Quetzaltenango), Zaculeu can be quite a hassle to reach.

Another thing to keep in mind is that as obscure and out-of-the-way as these ruins may seem, Zaculeu is still close to a significant city and can therefore get quite crowded.

For example, in the middle of my visit on a weekday afternoon, a huge group of dozens of teenagers suddenly entered the ruins and basically took over the pyramids, shouting at each other from across the site.

Without many large public parks or gathering spots in many Guatemalan cities, I’ve observed that locals tend to congregate at archaeological sites en masse. After all, they only pay 5Q for entry – about the same price as a local bus ride.

With all that said, as exhausting as the day was, I’m still glad I made it out to Zaculeu. Despite the controversy surrounding its restoration, I found the site to be more visually appealing than other lesser-known sites such as Iximche. But I would only recommend it for the most hardcore archaeology enthusiasts.

Xela is a medium-sized city of about 200,000 people. While many places can be reached on foot, walking around the city can be rather unpleasant due to terrible traffic, narrow sidewalks, and few traffic lights.

If you’re mainly in Xela for sightseeing, you’ll want to stay close to Parque Centroamérica. Xela is one of Guatemala’s most affordable destinations, so you should be able to find private rooms with private bathrooms for a great price.

One example is Hotel Casa Quetzaltenango, which is very budget-friendly and just a block from the central park. But those looking for something more luxurious should consider somewhere like Hotel Pensión Bonifaz, also right by the park.

On the other hand, if you think you’ll be doing a lot of day trips from Xela, you might want to stay further west, closer to the Minerva Bus Terminal. Consider the highly-rated ‘Brazilian Art‘ rental apartment which places you in between the center, the bus terminal and the cemetery.

Regardless of where you stay, remember that Uber works great in Xela, so there’s always an easy way to get from one side of the city to the other.

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