Last Updated on: 12th November 2024, 06:35 pm
Established on March 1, 1872, Yellowstone National Park is the world’s very first National Park. While the US is now home to over 60 such parks, visiting Yellowstone remains a unique experience thanks to its hydrothermal features and abundant wildlife. While the park is massive, there’s no better place to start than at Old Faithful in the Upper Geyser Basin.
The following guide to southwest Yellowstone then takes you to the Midway Geyser Basin and its mesmerizing Grand Prismatic Spring. In total, this region alone is home to no less than five geyser basins, and seeing everything would take up an entire day.
While we will be covering a few hikes, exploring these basins largely consists of walking along wooden boardwalks built across along mostly flat terrain. Just be careful not to fall off, as the water is scalding hot!
It would be wise to start your day with the Upper Geyser Basin and get there as early as possible. But it’s important that you strategically plan where you spend the previous night. See the end of the article for more details on accommodation, getting around the park and current park entry fees.
Upper Geyser Basin
The Upper Geyser Basin is home to no less than 150 geysers in a single square mile, making it the most dense concentration of geysers on the planet.
Most people come to the Upper Geyser Basin – and Yellowstone as a whole – to see Old Faithful, the park’s most famous geyser. But as we’ll cover shortly, there’s a lot more to see around the area.
Old Faithful happens to be the first geyser you’ll encounter upon walking to the Upper Geyser Basin from the parking lot. As such, it makes sense to wait around until the next eruption before going off to explore the rest of the area.
If you have time to kill, you can go admire the nearby Old Faithful Inn. Completed in early 1904, it’s one of the country’s only remaining log hotels.
Old Faithful
Old Faithful is the most frequently-erupting large geyser in the park. And its regularity fascinated the early explorers to this area – just as it continues to fascinate modern visitors.
While the interval between eruptions has lengthened over the past few decades, Old Faithful presently erupts every 90 minutes or so. You’ll find scheduled eruption times at the Visitor Center, while you can also check online.
Upon my arrival, I had about thirty minutes to wait for the next eruption. Surrounding the base of the geyser, you’ll find a large wooden platform complete with benches, though spots can fill up quickly.
There’s also another popular spot from which to view Old Faithful’s eruptions, appropriately known as the Observation Point. Located northeast of the geyser, it requires a moderate hike to reach.
While I’d planned to view another eruption from there, I became so captivated by the rest of Upper Geyser Basin that I wouldn’t end up making it.
Finally, the wait was over, and Old Faithful began its massive eruption right on cue. The eruptions typically reach up to 130-140 feet, and the spectacle can last up to several minutes.
Many people travel for days just to witness this in person, and it’s easy to understand why. But even without Old Faithful, the Upper Geyser Basin would still be one of the most remarkable geological areas on the planet.
Geyser Hill
There are a few different ways to go about exploring Upper Geyser Basin, but I decided to start by heading northeast to Geyser Hill.
Some people like to plan their explorations in order to be back at Old Faithful in time for another eruption. But there’s so much to see in the general area that to see it all would take well over 90 minutes of your time.
All in all, after witnessing Old Faithful erupt, I’d spend over two hours exploring the rest of Upper Geyser Basin! And one could easily spend longer by waiting for some of the other regular geysers to erupt.
If you’ve never been before, it’s hard to describe exactly what it’s like to walk through one of Yellowstone’s geyser basins. Imagine countless colorful geysers bubbling and sputtering on either side of you while steam rises from the ground in all directions.
And that’s not to mention the strong rotten egg smell you’ll encounter throughout much of the park. It’s a result of hydrogen sulfide, and you’ll likely get used to it over time.
But what exactly are geysers? Essentially, a geyser is the same thing as a hot spring but with a restricted water flow.
Yellowstone’s hydrothermal activity is fueled by magma beneath the earth, and the heat is constantly looking for a way out. While hot water that smoothly flows to the surface is just a hot spring, sometimes the path is not so clear.
When faced with a complicated tunnel system beneath the earth, pressure can build up, eventually resulting in eruptions.
While we can’t see exactly what’s going on beneath the surface, different ‘plumbing systems’ beneath each geyser results in drastically different eruption schedules.
Some geysers seem to constantly sputter water, while others remain perfectly calm until the occasional violent eruption. It’s almost like they all have their own individual personalities and temperaments.
In addition to geysers, Geyser Hill is home to various springs, such as the Arrowhead Spring. But while its turquoise water may resemble water you’d find at a tropical beach resort, it would be scalding hot to the touch.
Along Firehole River
Continuing along the boardwalk past Geyser Hill, you’ll encounter plenty more geysers as you walk parallel to the Firehole River.
While you won’t likely find yourself alone for very long at Upper Geyser Basin, the crowds will start to dwindle the further away you get from Old Faithful.
Some highlights here include Tardy Geyser, which I just happened to encounter mid-eruption. While some of its eruptions happen only minutes apart, it can supposedly sometimes go hours without one.
Also of note is the steaming Spasmodic Geyser, as well as numerous colorful springs such as the Beauty Pool and Chromatic Pool. Interestingly, their colors are a result of microscopic lifeforms that can somehow survive under extreme heat.
But the most remarkable geyser in this part of the basin would have to be the Grand Geyser.
Grand Geyser is one of several at the Upper Geyser Basin for which rangers estimate the next eruption. You’ll find the next estimated eruption time written on a small whiteboard.
I arrived at Grand Geyser around 9:30, and saw that it was scheduled to erupt between 9:30-12:00. Like waiting for a FedEx delivery, it could’ve happened right then, or I’d end up wasting hours sitting around.
While I decided to keep exploring, some people I spoke with were intent on waiting. But what makes Grand Geyser so special?
While not as predictable as Old Faithful, Grand Geyser’s eruptions are taller, reaching up to 180 feet. That makes it the tallest predictable geyser in the world!
As pictured further below, I would briefly catch the eruption from a distance, and somewhat regretted not sticking around for longer.
Heading further north, I encountered some of my favorite landmarks in this part of the park. Grotto Geyser is a fountain-type geyser which is actually a cluster of different geysers. It constantly seems to be violently sputtering water and steam, though it only actually erupts every eight hours.
It’s connected underground with nearby Giant Geyser which can sometimes reach up to a staggering 300 feet. It goes through long periods of dormancy, however.
At the northern tip of Upper Geyser Basin is the stunning Morning Glory Pool. But unfortunately, it used to be even more colorful, and is gradually fading due to acts of vandalism. Sadly, visitors have been throwing objects like coins into the pool over the years, resulting in the greenish-brown hue we see today.
Nevertheless, Morning Glory Pool is still fascinating for how deep it is, resembling a potential portal to the underworld.
The Upper Geyser Basin actually extends north of the Morning Glory Pool, with a trail taking you to the Artemisia Geyser and Gem Pool. But as we’ll cover below, you can also get there following your visit to Biscuit Basin.
Making my way back south, I took the trail to the west of the lake. I headed west to check out Daisy Geyser. And though an eruption was supposed to be happening then, it appeared perfectly calm.
Returning to the main trail, I caught a glimpse of the spectacular eruption of Grand Geyser, but there was no way to quickly get closer.
I then passed by various other smaller geysers and pools as I made my way back toward the Visitor Center.
Even though I was heading south, I noticed a bridge over the Firehose River and decided to check out what was on the other side. Sure enough, there were more colorful springs here, such as South Scalloped Spring, that I was glad to have made the detour to see.
The geysers and springs mentioned and pictured above only scratch the surface of all there is to see in the Upper Geyser Basin. But if you only have a day to dedicate to southwest Yellowstone, there are several additional basins in the area that shouldn’t be missed.
Midway Geyser Basin
Finished with the Upper Geyser Basin, it’s time to head north. Next, head toward the Midway Geyser Basin. While you’ll pass by some other destinations on the way, you can visit them on the way back.
You’ll want to get to the Midway Geyser Basin before most of the crowds arrive, as it’s easily one of the most popular sections of the park.
Even if you make it relatively early, don’t be shocked to see a bunch of cars lined up outside the parking lot. It would be wise to just be patient and get in line.
In contrast to nearby Grand Teton National Park, where a full parking lot pretty much means you’re out of luck, Yellowstone works differently – at least from my experience.
Here, cars waited patiently in a single file. And when a visitor leaves the parking lot, the next car in line takes that spot. I don’t know if it works that way all the time, but I was surprised by how orderly and efficient it was.
After finally getting a spot, you’ll likely be eager to see the colorful Grand Prismatic Spring. But first. you’ll pass by the Excelsior Geyser which is noteworthy for its sheer size. Unfortunately, eruptions are hard to predict.
All in all, Midway Geysery Basin is tiny compared with Upper Geyser Basin, and the boardwalk will soon take you Grand Prismatic, arguably Yellowstone’s most famous attraction after Old Faithful.
At 200 ft (61 m) across, not only is it Yellowstone’s largest hot spring, it’s comprised of a beautiful array of colors. The blue comes from the water in the center scattering blue wavelengths, while the surrounding yellow and orange are caused by microorganisms that thrive here.
The spring maintains a constant temperature of 160° F (70° C), so it should go without saying that you’ll want to stay on the boardwalk.
You’ve likely seen photos of Grand Prismatic from above, but this vantage point cannot be accesssed from the Midway Geyser Basin. As we’ll cover shortly, the overlook can be reached via the Fairy Falls Trail further south.
Finished with Grand Prismatic, the boardwalk will take you past the pretty but comparatively unremarkable Turquoise Pool and Opal Pool. You’ll then make your way back to the parking lot.
Lower Geyser Basin
Next, head back south, stopping at the Lower Geyser Basin. While there are plenty of geysers to see here, the overall area is tiny compared with Upper Geyser Basin.
Confusingly, the walking trail through the basin is also known as the ‘Fountain Paint Pots Trail,’ with the boardwalk stretching out to 0.5 miles (0.8 km).
Of special note is the beautiful Celestine Pool, a vibrant blue hot spring. It’s both the first and last landmark you’ll encounter on the loop trail, allowing you to appreciate it from different angles.
You’ll then reach the Fountain Paint Pot itself, the main highlight of this area.
A mud pot is like a geyser, but rather than regular water, the liquid is highly acidic. So acidic, in fact, that it causes the ground to dissolve into clay. But since it’s constantly wet and often bubbling, it appears as what could best be described as explosive mud.
Another highlight of the Lower Geyser Basin is the Clepsydra Geyser which was erupting during my visit. Apparently, it often appears in a constant state of eruption, and it’s been this way for the last several decades.
While I didn’t realize it at the time, just east of this area is Firehole Lake Drive which will take you past even more geysers. But even without taking that detour, visiting all the stops in this itinerary would take up an entire day.
The Fairy Falls Trail
As mentioned above, the overlook for Grand Prismatic requires a hiking trail to get to, but you can’t get there directly from Midway Geyser Basin. A bit further south of the basin, however, is the Fairy Falls Parking Lot which will give you access to the trail.
The hike to the overlook is just about 0.8 miles (1.3 km), though it is fairly steep. The hike itself is unremarkable, as you’ll be surrounded by trees (not to mention other hikers) on either side of you. But the view is well worth it.
Expect to make it up in about 15-20 minutes. But why, you may be wondering, is it called the Fairy Falls Trail?
If you continue along the trail, you’ll reach the 200 ft-high Fairy Falls waterfall, about 1.6 miles from the trailhead. But I didn’t hike to the end of the trail, and it doesn’t seem like many visitors do.
The colors – particularly the vibrant blue hue – of Grand Prismatic can be hard to make out from the ground. But from up top, the spring takes on a very different appearance, especially on a clear day.
Even amongst the crowds, it’s a breathtaking sight that shouldn’t be missed by anyone physically able to do this hike.
Even after admiring this stunning view, you’re probably still wondering how to get those shots of Grand Prismatic that commonly appear on merchandise. Many of the most widely-circulated images of the spring were taken from directly overhead.
As drones are (rightfully) banned in the park, the only way you’d be able to witness Grand Prismatic from a bird’s eye view would be to book a private scenic flight.
Biscuit Basin
Continuing further south, the next destination on this itinerary is Biscuit Basin, situated just northwest of Upper Geyser Basin. This is a geyser basin similar to the others, though you also have the option of taking an additional hike through the forest.
Among the most beautiful sights here is the Sapphire Pool. Sure, it’s yet another blue pool like those pictured above, but admiring these geological wonders never gets old.
Another unique feature here is Shell Spring, comprised of protruding yellowish bumps in its center. It almost looks like some kind of sea creature.
About halfway through the main boardwalk in the geyser area is the detour for the Mystic Falls hike. From the boardwalk, it’s about 0.7 miles to reach the falls, or 1.7 for the entire loop hike.
I did the full loop hike clockwise, but later realized that everyone else was doing it counterclockwise.
By hiking the trail clockwise, you’ll reach the Mystic Falls fairly early on, After that, it’s a steep uphill hike followed by a gentle descent.
But aside from some nice views of Biscuit Basin, there aren’t any noteworthy landmarks past the falls, so you could shorten the hike by simply turning around at the waterfall.
On the other hand, by hiking counterclockwise, you’ll be rewarded with a view of Mystic Falls at the end. But frankly speaking, the falls, while pretty, are nothing special in comparison with all the hydrothermal features throughout the area.
Continuing with the other half of the Biscuit Basin boardwalk, you can admire even more geysers, such as Mustard Spring.
Back at the parking lot, if you still have energy left over, you might want to consider checking out some geysers on the other side of the road before getting back into your car.
Artemisia Trail (Upper Geyser Basin)
As mentioned above, past Upper Geyser Basin’s Morning Glory Pool, a dirt trail takes visitors even further north.
While I’d skipped it that morning to stay on schedule, I later realized that the opposite end of the trail can easily be accessed from the Biscuit Basin Parking lot. Simply cross the road and you’re at the trailhead.
The trail is commonly known as the Artemisia Trail after the Artemisia Geyser, which is composed of deposits of a type of silica called geyserite.
There are actually multiple pools in the area which all make up Artemisia Geyser, which is considered to be one of Yellowstone’s largest.
Past the geyser, I’d end up walking all the way back to the Morning Glory Pool, admiring it one more time before turning around. And on the way back, I happened the encounter Artemisia Geyser erupting!
While it wasn’t the main pool, it was still surreal to witness an eruption with no other visitors around.
At this point, my itinerary for the day in southwest Yellowstone was finally over. But it wasn’t until the drive back to my campsite that I noticed there was still one more geyser basin in the area.
Black Sand Basin
Black Sand Basin takes its name from black obsidian found in the area. This basin is similar in size to the other smaller basins mentioned above, with highlights including Cliff Geyser, Green Spring and Rainbow Pool. The boardwalk also takes you above Iron Spring Creek.
While hardly the most essential geyser basin in Yellowstone (though the park officially categorizes it as part of the Upper Geyser Basin), geyser aficionados should at least stop by Black Sand Basin for a quick visit.
Additional Info
As there are no shuttle systems in Yellowstone National Park whatsoever, renting a car is a must.
Of the areas mentioned above, the two most distant from one another are Upper Geyser Basin and Lower Geyser Basin. But the driving time between them is just fifteen minutes.
But what about reaching Upper Geyser Basin from your accommodation?
If you’re staying in Jackson, the drive to Upper Geyser Basin/Old Faithful would be about two hours. From the Grant Village Campground in the south of the park, meanwhile, the journey is just about 40 minutes.
The journey from West Yellowstone, meanwhile, would also be about 45 minutes.
Check below for tips on where to stay.
At around 2.2 million acres, Yellowstone National Park is absolutely massive, and there are few cities or towns right by the park. And even if there were, you’d still want to change locations at least once to easily make it to all the main areas.
Rather than present an exhaustive list of all the different options and variables, I’ll explain what my travel companions and I did. In the end, I’m very pleased with the way the trip worked out. What follows is a brief summary, but you can learn more details in our comprehensive Yellowstone Itinerary.
Yellowstone should be explored over the course of three or four days. Assuming you can spend four nights in the region, it’s best to camp within the park and to do so at two different locations.
Not only will this save you money, it will also save you a lot of driving time. It also makes it possible to observe wildlife at dusk and dawn.
Note that driving in Yellowstone in the dark is not advised due to the lack of lighting and presence of large animals on the roads. As such, you can count out staying in a nearby town and getting a head start by departing before sunrise.
Coming immediately from Grand Teton National Park, I entered Yellowstone via the South Entrance and headed straight for the Grant Village Campground. The next day, after exploring the geysers of southwest Yellowstone, I spent another night at the same campsite.
The following morning, we packed up our things and explored Yellowstone Lake and nearby areas. That night was spent at the Canyon Village Campground, located in the east part of the park where the two main loop roads intersect.
Again, we spent two nights in total at the same campground, allowing easy access to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. It was also within reasonable driving distance of Mammoth Hot Springs on the final day. (We’d then head north into Montana).
Yellowstone’s campgrounds are run by the Xanterra Corporation, and you can make reservations at this link.
Both campgrounds I stayed at had shower areas, though they unfortunately weren’t within walking distance of the campsite. There were plenty of bathrooms in the main camping areas, however.
Note that you can also find proper hotels/lodges at both Grant Village and Canyon Village. But not only can they get very pricey, you’d have to book many months in advance to secure a spot. On that note, even camping sites should be booked several months ahead of time.
Even with a comprehensive guide, planning a trip to Yellowstone can be overwhelming considering all there is to do and see. That’s where guided tours can come in handy.
If you’re short on time, this highly-rated tour takes you to various parts of the park, such as the Upper Geyser Basin (for Old Faithful) and Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. It also takes you through Hayden Valley, one of the best places for spotting wildlife.
This is a similar tour for those based in Jackson, while it also includes parts of Grand Teton National Park.
At the time of writing, Yellowstone costs $35 to enter (learn more here).
If you’re visiting from abroad, note that in contrast to many other countries, US parks typically charge per vehicle rather than per person. However, if you’re traveling by bicycle instead, they’ll charge you for an individual pass which costs $20, while those on motorcycles will be charged $30.
Considering how many National Parks and National Monuments there are to see in the Southwest alone, the best option for most will be to buy an ‘America the Beautiful’ Annual National Parks Pass.
These cost $80 for the year. In most cases, you’re already saving money by just visiting four National Parks/Monuments anywhere in the country within a full year.
What’s more, is that only one person in your vehicle needs to have the pass. Additionally, seniors can buy the pass for just $20. So if you have someone over 62 in your party, just have them get the annual pass and everyone else will be set.
As for where to get the pass, you can purchase it in person at most National Parks or Monuments. But you can also order it in advance online.
Fortunately, a park pass/entry ticket is all you need to visit Yellowstone right now, as the park has not implemented any permit or timed entry systems like other popular parks have.
The guide above is just one of many Yellowstone-related articles on this website. Just starting out with planning and aren’t sure where to begin? These articles have got you covered:
- Top 5 Things to Do in Yellowstone
- The Perfect 4-Day Yellowstone Itinerary
- Yellowstone: The Ultimate Packing List
And here’s a list of our other location-specific Yellowstone guides:
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