Street Art: Santa Catarina Palopó

Last Updated on: 12th July 2024, 06:11 pm

The various towns surrounding Guatemala’s Lake Atitlán are often said to have their own distinct atmospheres and personalities. But none of them can claim to be as colorful as Santa Catarina Palopó.

Located a short distance from the lake’s main transport hub of Panajachel, Santa Catarina Palopó is one of the smaller and more traditional towns of the region, and it long struggled economically. But when locals saw the economic benefits that tourism was bringing to other parts of the lake, they wanted in on some of the action.

Rather than simply set up hostels or tourist-oriented cafes, Santa Catarina went a different route and started decorating its buildings with colorful murals. While not done elsewhere at Lake Atitlán, the town followed a model that’s proven successful in other small towns around the world.

The mastermind behind the project, which was initiated around a decade ago, is Guatemalan news correspondent Harris Whitbeck. And even now, local families can get their houses painted for free on the condition that they keep the area clean and assist with the work when necessary.

Santa Catarina still lacks tourist-oriented accommodations or tour offices, but they now attract plenty of day trippers who often end up spending money at local shops. This strategy has helped Santa Catarina Palopó avoid becoming just another San Pedro and San Marcos.

Below, we’ll be covering what it’s like to explore this charming town independently. And at the very end of the article, you can learn more about reaching Santa Catarina Palopó and nearby accommodation.

Santa Catarina Palopó Street Art
Santa Catarina Palopó Street Art

Street Art: Santa Catarina Palopó

Santa Catarina Palopó Street Art

Arriving in Santa Catarina Palopó via tuk tuk or shared pickup truck (more on that below), you’ll get dropped off at the main square. But even if somehow you don’t, the town is tiny, and the main square is never too far away.

The buildings surrounding the square are decorated in beautiful and colorful patterns, with the only exception being the main church.

Santa Catarina Palopó Street Art

While I didn’t realize it at the time, the main square is home to the official headquarters of the Pintando Santa Catarina Palopó project. The staff is said to be able to give you some information about the history of the project and the town itself.

But as we’ll cover shortly, you can see most of the street art around Santa Catarina Palopó by simply wandering around independently.

Santa Catarina Palopó Street Art
The main office of the Pintando Santa Catarina Palopó project

Elsewhere by the main square, I happened to meet one of the owners of a local handicrafts shop who welcomed me to the town and encouraged me to explore. 

He also explained how many of the common symbols depicted in the street murals have long been important symbols of the Kaqchikel Maya who inhabit the town.

Santa Catarina Palopó Street Art
Santa Catarina Palopó Street Art

A few of the common motifs include a two-headed bird known as the Ixkot, as well as the deer. 

The double-headed bird can be found around the world, and here it represents bravery and protection. Notably, the bird is simultaneously looking both forward and backward in time.

Deer, meanwhile, have long been an important food source of the Mayan people and has therefore come to symbolize abundance.

As you explore Santa Catarina Palopó, you’ll also notice that a majority of the buildings have been painted various shades of blue. And this also stems from local tradition.

The town’s women are recognizable for wearing a distinctive blue huipil, or traditional blouse. While huipils in general are very common to see throughout Guatemala, blue ones are associated with Santa Catarina in particular.

Santa Catarina Palopó Street Art
Santa Catarina Palopó Street Art
Santa Catarina Palopó Street Art

After checking out the main square, I continued exploring Santa Catarina Palopó by heading west along the main road. Just when I thought I’d reached the end of the murals, I’d keep encountering more.

But eventually they did end, and so I turned around to explore the rest of town.

Santa Catarina Palopó Street Art

While Santa Catarina Palopó is one of the few towns in the area that visitors reach by road, the town does indeed have a boat dock. And so I decided to check it out, wondering if there might be some street art there, too.

Santa Catarina Palopó Street Art
Santa Catarina Palopó Street Art

Sure enough, there was – both on the walk over and near the dock itself. Walking out to the boardwalk, I even spotted someone’s lancha that was entirely adorned in traditional art!

In case you’re wondering, nearly all of the boats operating at this dock are private, so you’ll ultimately want to return to Panajachel again by land. But more on that below.

Santa Catarina Palopó Street Art

Normally, one should be able to enjoy a clear view of the multiple volcanoes surrounding the lake. But unfortunately, it was hazy throughout my entire stay in the region, and it was almost like the volcanoes weren’t even there.

On that note, one nice thing about street art is that it’s always there to enjoy regardless of external conditions.

Next, I walked along the main road toward the eastern part of town. Here, there were much fewer painted buildings along the road itself. But when looking up, I could see countless painted homes situated along the upper portions of the hill.

Santa Catarina Palopó Street Art
Santa Catarina Palopó Street Art

I eventually reached the eastern edge of the town and decided that it was time to turn back. 

Interestingly, I happened to walk by an unpainted ‘chicken bus.’ These buses, which were originally school buses in the United States before being imported to Central America, are typically painted in vibrant colors before being used as both city and long-distance buses.

But it was in Santa Catarina Palopó, of all places, that I found one left completely unpainted! Who knows – perhaps one day it will be painted in the town’s trademark style.

Back near the center, I decided to start exploring the town’s upper levels, which are entirely residential. But the shopkeeper I’d spoken with earlier encouraged me to walk around and explore, assuring me that Santa Catarina Palopó is completely safe (not all of Lake Atitlán’s towns are).

And so I headed up some stairs to walk down the little alleyways in between locals’ homes. Though I felt a bit like I was intruding, the residents who passed me by simply greeted me with a smile.

Unfortunately, I repeatedly hit dead ends and was often unable to find particular interesting buildings that I’d spotted in the distance.

About four or five times, I returned to the main road and started walking up a different staircase. And each time, I ended up in a confusing labyrinth that just led me to a dead end or straight onto someone’s property. Eventually, I gave up and decided to head back to Panajachel.

After several days of exploring Lake Atitlán, I left this massively hyped-up region with mixed feelings. But if I had to choose a favorite lakeside town of all seven or so that I saw, Santa Catarina Palopó is hands down my favorite – largely thanks to the local street art project.

Santa Catarina Palopó Street Art

Additional Info

As mentioned, it’s possible to both reach and explore Santa Catarina Palopó independently.

But for those who’d feel more comfortable with a local guide, it may be possible to arrange a private tour on the ground in Panajachel. In regards to tours that are bookable online, this unique ATV tour is one of the only options.

As the name suggests, it allows you to ride an ATV through Santa Catarina Palopó and also the neighboring town of San Antonio Palopó.

Despite being right next to Panajachel, the lake’s main transport hub, Santa Catarina Palopó is surprisingly tricky to reach. There don’t seem to be regular boats going there, though the town is only about fifteen minutes away from Panajachel by road.

In summary, you can reach Santa Catarina Palopó by either tuk tuk or pickup truck. But that’s easier said than done.

I’d recommend taking a shared pickup truck. While not the most comfortable option, it costs only 5Q, and there’s no need to haggle. The problem is figuring out where to go, which is far from obvious. While I didn’t know on the morning of my visit, you can catch a shared pickup truck slightly past the Taquero Mucho restaurant on El Amate street.

While I did indeed go to El Amate street, I wasn’t aware the trucks wouldn’t come further west or north of that point. And so I ended up having to deal with the local tuk tuk drivers.

I’d read on a couple of websites and forums that the one-way journey from Panajachel to Santa Catarina Palopó should only cost 20Q. But the first few drivers I spoke with were quoting me 50Q, 60Q and even 75Q! Some locals even asked me how much the drivers were quoting me and then shook their heads in disgust.

Finally, I found someone who didn’t completely rip me off, and we settled on 30Q. 

Luckily, getting back to Panajachel is much easier, as the shared pickup trucks will stop right by Santa Catarina Palopó’s main square. 

There are lots of different villages and towns surrounding Lake Atitlán, and many visitors have their own personal preference. But when first researching the area, figuring out where to stay can be overwhelming. Let’s take a look at some of the most popular options.

Panajachel

The lake’s main transport hub is the town of Panajachel. If you’ll be arriving at Lake Atitlán by bus or tourist shuttle from anywhere else in Guatemala, you’ll first be arriving at Panajachel. And if you’ll be staying in another town along the lake, you’ll most likely have to get there by boat.

I decided to base myself in Panajachel, and looking back, I feel like it was the correct decision. The main reason is convenience, as the town has road links with the rest of the country and boat links with the rest of the lake.

While Panajachel is indeed touristy, I found the town to have an even mix foreigners and locals. While there’s no shortage of things like tourism offices, you can also easily find restaurants that charge standard local prices.

So why don’t more people seem to stay in Panajachel? I’m not sure why, but a lot of travel writers online talk about Panajachel as if it were merely a stopover place before moving onto one of the more ‘authentic’ towns along the lake. But I actually found Panajachel to be the most authentic of all the tourist-oriented towns of Atitlán!

Regarding accommodation in Panajachel, a highly-rated budget option is Posada don Miguel, while a good mid-range choice would be Perla Maya Hotel. And those looking to splurge a bit might want to consider Villa Santa Catarina.

San Pedro

San Pedro is one of the largest and most popular towns along the lake, and it has quite a lot of accommodation options to choose from. And if you don’t speak much Spanish, the area near the dock seems entirely catered toward tourists.

Overall, San Pedro is quite affordable. One of the cheapest private rooms in town is Hotel Adulam, while a slightly higher-end choice would be Mikaso Hotel. And those not on such a strict budget should consider the highly-rated San Pedro Suite.

Before booking accommodation here, you should understand that San Pedro is especially known for its party and nightlife scene. And some criticize the town as being a ‘backpacker ghetto.’ So if you’re looking for more of a relaxing stay, you might want to look elsewhere.

San Marcos

San Marcos is Lake Atitlán’s – and Guatemala’s – main hippie town. It’s here that you’ll find things like yoga workshops, shamanic ceremonies and even Indian kirtans. San Marcos also has no shortage of plant-based and organic restaurants, but prices are nearly what you’d pay in the West.

San Marcos is slightly more expensive than the rest of the lake, but you can still find some budget accommodations, such as Earthship Cabins. Pricey but popular options, meanwhile, include Lush Atitlán and Baba Yaga Atitlan.

Elsewhere Along the Lake

Other quieter options that still have plenty of accommodation options to choose from would be San Juan or Santa Cruz.

And you can even stay in Santa Catarina Palopó, though the only two options (Hotel Casa Palopo and Tzampoc Resort) are very luxurious.

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