Last Updated on: 4th August 2024, 11:28 pm
Built during the final days of the Aztec Empire, the temple complex of Malinalco is unlike any other in Mesoamerica. Carved into the side of a hill at over 100 m above the valley floor, Malinalco is a rare example of monolithic architecture in this part of the world. Visiting Malinalco can also be combined with the fascinating Sanctuary of Chalma, regarded as one of Mexico’s most important pilgrimage spots.
For more information on reaching Malinalco and Chalma as a day trip from either Cuernavaca or Mexico City, be sure to check the end of the article.
The Ruins of Malinalco
Arriving in Malinalco, the way to the ruins isn’t quite obvious at first. But Google Maps will help you get started, and then you should eventually see signs pointing you toward the ruins.
As you make your way uphill, you’ll get to enjoy incredible views while stopping along the way to read the informational signage.
While the Aztecs wouldn’t conquer Malinalco until the 15th century, this area had been settled since at least 900 AD due to its fertile land and natural springs. According to Aztec mythology, however, it was founded by none other than the dark goddess Malinalxochitl.
Malinalxochitl was the sister of Mexica (Aztec) patron deity Huitzilopochtli, who left her due to her use of black magic. Malinalxochitl did not take kindly to being abandoned by her brother, and she swore that she would find him and get revenge.
During her search, she led her group around central Mexico and they would end up settling at Malinalco and founding a town.
Historically, the Aztec Empire came and conquered Malinalco in 1476, dedicating the settlement to Huitzilopochtli.
While things like an outer defensive wall had already existed, the Aztec ruler Ahuizotl would commission a large monolithic temple complex here in 1501.
Passing the ticket gate and arriving at the ruins proper, the first structure you’ll encounter on your left is Structure 8. While almost entirely missing, one can see how the Aztec builders flatted the hard rock behind it using only primitive tools.
On the right side of the terrace is Building 6, which was never completed. As mentioned, large-scale construction only began here in 1501, and the Spanish arrived in the area in 1520. As such, Malinalco was still something of a work in progress when the conquest began.
But that’s not to say that the site wasn’t put to use. In fact, it was an extremely important location in the final decades of the Aztec Empire. And this is evidenced by Malinalco’s centerpiece, Building 1, also known as Cuauhcalli (House of the Eagles).
Entrance to the temple would’ve been strictly limited to the ruling class and the Eagle and Jaguar Warriors, the Aztec Empire’s elite warrior classes.
It was inside the temple, in fact, that initiation rituals into these warrior classes would take place. A lot of rituals involved bloodletting in honor of Huitzilopochtli. And as Huitzilopochtli was a solar deity, this temple was also considered to be a dwelling place of the sun.
If you’ve already visited numerous archaeological sites throughout Mexico, you’ll immediately observe how unique this one is. Its core structure was entirely carved out of the natural rock of the hill – even the sculptures!
The sculptures near the base of the steps depict jaguars and eagles, including one jaguar carved in the middle of the staircase. Outside the entrance – which was carved to depict a serpent’s mouth – sits an Eagle Warrior atop a coiled serpent.
Temple 1 is currently off-limits to visitors to help preserve it. But one can get a decent view of the entrance from atop the large platform in front of it, also known as Building 2.
And for those wondering what the interior looks like, you can step inside a scale replica at the nearby Museo Luis Mario Schneider.
Inside the temple is a semicircular bench, with a jaguar in the center and eagles on either side. The eagle in the center of the floor, meanwhile, was where offerings were placed – including human hearts!
Malinalco was the location of a brutal type of ritual in which captive soldier would be given the ‘honor’ of fighting against an Eagle of Jaguar Warrior.
But the fight was rigged, with the captive only being given a wooden club. Furthermore, he’d keep fighting multiple warriors until his inevitable loss.
Eventually, he would be ritually sacrificed to Huitzilopochtli in the main temple.
As mentioned, the platform across from Building 1 is what archaeologists call Building 2. While a temple once stood here, the stones were usurped in the 16th century by the Augustinians.
Fortunately, the platform is climbable and offers spectacular views of the town of Malinalco and its natural surroundings.
Just to the right of Building 1 is a large staircase leading to upper portions of the temple complex. But unsurprisingly, it’s closed to visitors.
The adjacent circular building is known as Building 3. This one, which was possibly dedicated to the mortuary cult of fallen warriors, can be entered. And along the ground, you’ll find multiple receptacles for offerings and pits that may have served as fireplaces for cremations.
Archaeologists also discovered a tzompantli, or traditional Mesoamerican skull rack, in front.
At the edge of the terrace is a round platform which has oddly been named Building 5. Its original purpose remains unclear.
Next, around the corner is one of the most interesting sections of the Malinalco temple complex. While it appears to consist of multiple buildings, archaeologists have dubbed it Building 4, or the Temple of the Sun.
Here one can see a combination of stone ruins and huge flattened monolithic walls and floors. The temple would’ve originally been roofed over, and archaeologists believe it may have served as some type of council house for the Aztec elite.
Today, visitors can walk inside the spacious rooms formed by the hollowed out rock. Also be sure to turn around to look at the distant mountains.
It was through one particular gap that the sun would rise on important dates like the Mexica solar new year, and this temple was surely home to rituals related to sunrises in general.
Looking over the edge, one can find the remains of even more structures, like the remains of Building 11.
It’s around here that you can also see drainage channels carved out to divert rainwater. But as mentioned, despite all the effort the Aztecs put in to carving and building Malinalco, it would only be put to full use for a couple of decades.
Around Malinalco
Coming back the way you came, there are a few highlights around the modern town of Malinalco that you shouldn’t miss. Malinalco has been designated a Pueblo Mágico (Magic Town), which is especially fitting considering its association with the dark magic of Malinalxóchitl!
The town shares a similar look and feel to nearby Tepoztlán in Morelos, though I find Malinalco to be the more interesting of the two.
Museo Luis Mario Schneider
Those visiting the Malinalco ruins should be sure to see the Museo Luis Mario Schneider, not far from the start of the path up the hill. This is where many local archaeological findings are kept, including the replica of Building 1 mentioned above.
Visitors aren’t free to explore on their own, but instead of being led by a single guide, you’ll encounter a different guide in each room. Unfortunately for monolingual visitors, the explanations are all in Spanish.
The museum houses plenty of ceramics, figurines and stone sculptures discovered during Malinalco’s initial excavation in the 1930s led by José García Payón (some pieces, however, are replicas).
As for Luis Mario Schneider? He was a famous Argentine-born naturalized Mexican who settled in Malinalco, and the museum is situated in his former home.
More Around Town
As with many small colonial-era towns in Mexico, a highlight of visiting Malinalco is simply wandering the streets and admiring the colorful buildings. You can find plenty of restaurants and food stalls near the central square, while the town center is also home to another notable landmark.
The Augustinians first arrived in the area in 1537, and as mentioned above, they dismantled Aztec temples and used them to construct new churches. One of them is the Divine Savior Parish.
While fairly ordinary from the outside, it’s known for its stunning murals which were largely painted by indigenous artists.
The Sanctuary of Chalma
Speaking of churches, the neighboring town of Chalma happens to be the second-most important Catholic pilgrimage site in the country after the Basilica of Guadalupe.
As everyone visiting Malinalco via public transport will have to transfer here (more below), a stop at the Sanctuary of Chalma is a must.
The church is reached by walking through one of several alleyways lined with shops selling everything from religious items to local sweets.
But what makes Chalma so popular amongst religious pilgrims? According to legend, the image of Christ now on display at the main altar was originally discovered in a cave, having magically replaced a stone idol.
It was in this cave that religious rituals were regularly carried out in honor of Oxtoteotl, a form of Tezcatlipoca, who was closely associated with caves.
While the legend is supposed to symbolize the triumph of Christianity over local pagan beliefs, many of the ancient rituals from pre-Hispanic times have been preserved to this day.
Prior to the appearance of the ‘Black Christ’ image, the cave in Chalma had actually long been a pilgrimage spot to which indigenous people would walk to from far and wide.
Even now, devout pilgrims still make the journey on foot in hopes of having their wishes granted.
Coming out of the church’s other side, you’ll encounter the local river, in which pre-Hispanic pilgrims would bathe themselves before presenting offerings to Oxtoteotl.
For the average non-pilgrim, a visit here isn’t much different from your typical church visit. But given its fascinating backstory, even a brief trip to the Sanctuary of Chalma is something you’re unlikely to forget.
Additional Info
While there is no direct transport from major cities to Malinalco, you can easily transfer in Chalma by hopping in a shared taxi as soon as you arrive. You should be able to find one on the same road as soon as you get off the bus.
But what’s the best way to get to Chalma? Chalma can be accessed from either Cuernavaca or Mexico City.
Cuernavaca is the closer of the two, with the one-way journey lasting about 90 minutes. While I’d originally planned to visit Chalma and Malinalco during my stay there, at the time, the Flecha Roja company was only running a single daily bus at 5:00 or 6:00 in the morning!
Fortunately, at the time of writing, it appears that they’re now running regular buses throughout the day, but it’s always best to double check first.
I waited until my later stay in Mexico City to visit Malinalco and Chalma, but the day trip was certainly a long and tiring one, with the bus ride lasting nearly 2.5 hours one-way.
These buses are also managed by the Flecha Roja company and they depart from the Observatorio bus terminal in the west part of the city. No set timetable exists, but buses are supposed to run every thirty minutes or so begining early in the morning.
Mexico City is an incredibly massive city of nearly 10 million people. And its various tourist attractions are scattered throughout, making choosing where to stay a challenge. But here are a few suggestions to help you decide:
Centro Histórico
As the name suggests, this is the historical part of the city built by the Spanish. But they constructed it over the former Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan, even filling in the lake around it. As such, it’s the district where you’re going to find most the significant landmarks from both the colonial and pre-Hispanic era.
Just keep in mind that at the time of writing, Line 1 of the subway which runs through this area is down for maintenance.
A highly-rated high-end hotel here is Círculo Mexicano, while popular mid-range options include Hotel Metropol and Hotel Marlowe.
Those on a stricter budget, meanwhile should consider Hotel Sonno Plaza Allende.
Roma/Condesa
The Roma and Condesa neighborhoods, which are adjacent to one another, are widely considered Mexico City’s hippest districts. They’re also hugely popular with foreigners, so it may be a good place to stay if you’re not comfortable speaking Spanish.
On the higher end, Roso Guest House is conveniently located and includes free breakfast.
Stanza Hotel and Hotel Marbella are highly-rated mid-range options, while those on a budget should consider Anys Hostal.
Other popular neighborhoods include Coyoacán, home to the Frida Kahlo Museum, and just an interesting place to wander around in general. But while worth visiting, it’s not a very convenient base from which to explore the rest of the city.
If you plan on taking a lot of day trips, another good option is to stay near one of the city’s main bus stations. The problem is, however, that the city has no less than FOUR main stations – to the west, north, east and south of the center.
While there’s no perfect option, you could get a head start on visiting Teotihuacan by staying somewhere near the northern station (Autobuses del Norte).