Last Updated on: 15th January 2026, 11:39 am
Jaisalmer, situated at the western end of Rajasthan by the edge of the Thar Desert, has long been touted as one of India’s top hidden gems. Today, however, the secret is very much out, and the small city of 65,000 is practically overflowing with tourists. Be that as it may, there are still plenty of things to do in Jaisalmer, like exploring its fascinating ‘Living Fort’ and ornate havelis.
Jaisalmer was founded in 1156 by Rawal Jaisal, and it long served as a major hub for trade between India and Central Asia. But since the Partition of India and Pakistan in 1947, the city is now mostly reliant on tourism.
I first visited Jaisalmer around fifteen years prior to my recent trip, and I never could’ve guessed how many new hotels and developments would spring up. Has Jaisalmer lost much of its former charm as a result? Absolutely. But is Jaisalmer still worth a visit for those traveling through Rajasthan? Definitely. And the guide below will give you an idea of what to see and do.
In addition to the sites below, which you can see over the course of a few days, also be sure to give yourself extra time in the area to try a Jaisalmer Desert Safari or a trip to some temples and cenotaphs on the town’s outskirts.
For more information on reaching Jaisalmer and where to stay, be sure to check the end of the article.
Explore Jaisalmer Fort
Jaisalmer Fort is one of the few forts in India still home to full-time residents, with around 4,000 people residing within its sandstone walls.
Unlike vast hilltop citadels such as Chittorgarh, which feels more like a regular town on a plateau, Jaisalmer Fort does indeed feel like a true fortress.
There’s only one approach to the fort, and visitors will pass through four successive gates just as people did in ancient times. Once inside, you’ll find yourself amidst a maze of temples, havelis, and family homes, not to mention tourist-oriented cafes and souvenir shops.
While getting lost exploring the fort’s narrow alleyways is a big part of the fun, the fort’s many touts can sometimes make the experience exhausting.
Built atop a 76-meter-high hill, the fort measures roughly 460 meters long by 230 meters wide, and contains as many as 99 bastions. In late afternoon, its sandstone walls glow golden, earning Jaisalmer its nickname of ‘the Golden City.’
As beautiful as it is, as with many forts in India, Jaisalmer Fort has somewhat of a dark history. For example, the Delhi Sultanate once tried to invade in 1299, with local women committing Jauhar, or mass ritual suicide via self-immolation.
As mentioned, the fort functions as its own little city. In fact, for many centuries, Jaisalmer Fort was the city!
Nowadays, the fort is home to a lot more hotels and guesthouses than there used to be. And for the most authentic Jaisalmer experience, staying within the fort is recommended, which you can learn more about below.
Now let’s talk about some of the fort’s individual tourist attractions.
The Maharaja’s Palace
One of the main attractions within the fort is the Maharaja’s Palace, which served as the main royal residence of the Bhati Rajput rulers.
While I had stepped inside during a previous visit, the museum now costs a whopping Rs 600, and multiple locals told me that it wasn’t worth it.
The palace contains a museum filled with artifacts and offers panoramic views of the city, but as we’ll cover shortly, other places nearby offer the same for much less.
The Jain Temples
The various Rajput kingdoms of what is now Rajasthan had a longstanding tradition of patronizing Jainism. And many wealthy Rajasthani merchants were Jains, which is why you can find so many elaborate Jain temples throughout the region.
On that note, one of Jaisalmer Fort’s top attractions is its series of interconnected Jain temples.
Though the temples used to be free in the past, they now cost Rs 250 for foreigners to enter, a price which includes photography.
On the topic of money, as beautiful as these temples are, you do need to keep your guard up. For example, I was immediately followed by a ‘guide’ who wanted a donation, but he left me alone when I told him I didn’t need his services.
After that, I was standing in front of the main shrine when a priest appeared and wanted me to wave my hand over some ritual offerings. Sure enough, he then asked for a donation.
And all this happened right in front of a written sign that reads ‘PLEASE DO NOT GIVE TIPS TO HOLYMEN. ALL TIPS PLACE IN BOX.’
The largest temple of the bunch is Chandraprabhu Temple, which built in 1453 and consists of three stories. Each level contains a shrine for Chandraprabhu, the eighth Tirthankara of Jainism. And the main structure is also surrounded by 31 miniature shrines.
It would be wise to get here early in the morning to take in all the exquisite details in relative peace.
I actually stayed in a room at the Diamond Guest House right next to this temple, and loved being able to overlook it throughout my 10-day stay.
Oddly, visitors are allowed – and even encouraged – to photograph the idols here. This is in stark contrast to other Jain temples, such as Ranakpur, where photographing the idols is strictly forbidden. Other Jain temples, meanwhile, don’t allow photography at all.
Another temple here is Parsvanath Temple, built in 1416 during the reign of Maharawal Jai Singh. It’s renowned for its beautiful sandstone carvings and detailed pillars.
While some of the Jain temples have their own entrances, they’re so closely clustered together that it’s often hard to tell where one ends and the next begins. Fortunately, a few helpful locals pointed me in the right direction, ensuring I didn’t miss anything.
Baa Ri Haveli
Not far from the Jain temples is the Baa Ri Haveli. It only costs Rs 50, and the manager of my hotel recommended that I skip The Maharaja’s Palace and visit this one instead.
The five-story structure was once home to a family of advisors to the king of Jaisalmer, and it now houses a museum featuring various historical artifacts.
But as mentioned, the main reason to come is for the rooftop views. From here you can clearly see the Jain temples mentioned above, though I believe the view from my room at Diamond Guest House to be superior!
Visit the Havelis Outside The Fort
While Jaisalmer Fort dates back to the 12th century, the settlements beyond its walls didn’t appear until the 1800s. Many of the merchants’ homes, known as havelis, were constructed even later, particularly in the 19th century.
A haveli refers to a traditional mansion, often belonging to wealthy traders, that features ornate facades, courtyards, and highly details sandstone carvings.
Kothari’s Patwa-Haveli
The most famous of Jaisalmer’s havelis is Kothari’s Patwa-Haveli, built between 1805 and 1855 by the wealthy merchant Guman Chand Patwa.
The complex consists of five adjoining mansions, one for each of Patwa’s sons, and features an astonishing sixty-six balconies. Entry costs Rs 300 for foreigners and Rs 150 for Indians.
But before even stepping inside, one of the best ways to appreciate the haveli is by looking up at its latticed windows from the alleyway in front.
As a merchant family, it was important to keep valuables safe, and shortly past the entrance, you’ll encounter a secret safe.
Here you’ll find a beautiful Mirror Palace that was home to the family temple. Like many Rajasthani merchants, the Patwas were devout Jains. And the temple contains an idol of Lord Mahavira, the 24th and final Jain Tirthankara.
Other highlights include the Munim’s Chamber. A Munim worked as an accountant and secretary for Rajasthan’s wealthy businessmen, and it’s here that he sat and handled important transactions.
Also nearby is the Jeevan Vilas, a sitting room used to entertain clients. Recreated dressing rooms and a traditional kitchen offer a glimpse of domestic life, while an exhibit on Paleolithic humans adds an unexpected local history twist. Don’t miss the rooftop—the view over the fort and the old city is superb.
Also nearby is the Jeevan Vilas, a sitting room used to entertain clients. The Dressing Room, meanwhile, displays both female and male dressing rooms from those times, but in reality they would’ve been separate.
The traditional kitchen offers a glimpse of domestic life. And for a brief change of pace, you can even find a small exhibit on the region’s Paleolithic humans.
Don’t miss a trip up to the rooftop for superb views of the surrounding neighborhood and Jaisalmer Fort in the distance. And it’s here that you can find even more ornate carvings.
The Other Patwa Haveli?
Rather confusingly, just down the street is another Haveli that also charges for entry. And it’s also known as the ‘Patwa Haveli.’
Its full name, however, seems to be ‘Department of Archaeology & Museum, World Famous Patwa Haveli’ and it’s run by the state government.
I’d already been told in advance by a local that this other one lacks any furniture and is largely empty inside. Still, I walked over to see how much it cost.
The price was Rs 205 for foreigners and Rs 55 for locals. But having just paid for the better-known one next door, I was about to turn away when the staff member told me I could enter for the local price. And so I decided to check it out.
As expected, this haveli was barren and empty, and certainly not essential for most (but that could change if they decide to furnish it someday). With that said, it was enjoyable to walk around with few other visitors, while this structure offers some alternative views of the surrounding neighborhood.
More Havelis?
If you look on Google Maps or some other sources, it seems like there are a plethora of other havelis to explore around town. But in reality, Kothari’s Patwa-Haveli is really the only such one of its kind that you’ll find outside the fort.
Nathmal ki Haveli, for example, could easily rival it, but today it simply functions as a massive souvenir and crafts shop rather than a museum. It was built in 1855 by the prime minister of Jaisalmer at the time and consists of five stories.
As you explore the area, beware of touts asking you to come into their smaller family-run havelis. They will claim that it’s free, but then ask for a donation as you’re leaving.
I stepped into one out of curiosity, but it was so rundown and void of decoration that I didn’t even bother pulling out my camera.
Tour Mandir Palace
Built in the late 19th century by Maharawal Moolrajji, the impressive Mandir Palace (also known as Badal Vilas) is located to the northwest of the fort near the busy Hanuman Chauraha roundabout
The site has two main sections: Jawahir Vilas, which on its own costs Rs 100, and Zanana Mahal which costs Rs 80. Or, you can buy a combo ticket for Rs 160 which is what I did. And then for photography – even with a mobile camera – you’ll have to pay an extra Rs 30.
This seems to be a rare site in Jaisalmer (and India) that charges the same amount for both locals and foreigners.
Part of the structure now operates as a luxury hotel, though that section is off-limits to ordinary tourists.
Some of the rooms in the ticketed area can indeed be entered, however. Inside, you’ll find small museums featuring portraits, antiques and old furniture from the Rajput era.
One of Mandir Palace’s main highlights is the tower known as Badal Vilas, which remains Jaisalmer’s tallest structure outside of the fort.
All in all, the palace is a pleasant attraction that doesn’t seem to get too crowded, and it’s also more reasonably priced than some of Jaisalmer’s other sites.
Walk to Gadisagar Lake
Gadisagar Lake can be accessed on foot from central Jaisalmer in roughly twenty minutes. Built in 1367, the reservoir once served as Jaisalmer’s primary water source, sustaining the desert city for centuries.
Though now more decorative than practical, it remains one of Jaisalmer’s most scenic spots and is especially popular around sunset.
Visitors approaching the lake will walk through an elaborate gateway that caused quite a bit of controversy when it was built.
Commissioned by a royal courtesan named Telia, Jaisalmer’s queens did not approve of the project and ordered it to be demolished.
Telia, however, had a statue of Krishna installed at the top, thus sparing the structure as a whole. As such, the gate is known as Tilon ki Pol.
If you’re not taking a boat ride, there’s not a whole lot to do at Gadisagar Lake, but it’s still a photogenic spot that’s worth at least a quick visit while in town.
Attend the Jaisalmer Desert Festival
The Jaisalmer Desert Festival is an annual three-day festival that usually takes place in January or February. It’s very hyped up by local residents and tourism authorities, and some visitors arrange their entire trip around attending this festival.
In my case, however, I just happened to be in town when the festival was taking place.
Though festivities occurred in a few different locations, I went to check out the events happening in the big sports field to the west of the fort. In the end, I didn’t even end up staying an hour!
I’d just arrived when they started the ‘Mr. Desert Competition,’ in which a couple dozen men donning colorful turbans and elaborate moustaches were being examined by judges.
Standing in the harsh desert sunlight, I waited for them to pick a winner as EDM blasted from the speakers. I waited, and then waited some more, but still no announcement.
Walking around the grounds, I encountered camel rides for children, an exhibit glorifying the border patrol, and crafts shops (as if the entire city wasn’t full of that).
And so I just left. Later, when speaking to another attendee, I learned that at least another hour of dead air passed before they announced a winner!
Additional Info
Jaisalmer is located at the western edge of India, so getting there is always going to be a bit of a detour.
It’s possible to come as far as Delhi, with the Delhi-Jaisalmer Express train being a long overnight journey.
Most travelers will likely be coming from another place in Rajasthan, and one can reach the city directly from Jodhpur, Bikaner, Ajmer, and Jaipur. Those coming from Udaipur will have to transfer in Ajmer, the nearest major station to Pushkar.
If you have limited time in India but don’t want to miss Jaisalmer, it’s also possible to fly into Jaisalmer Airport. You can reach it from cities like Jaipur, Mumbai and Bangalore.
If you’re doing a long trip through India, it’s best to create an account on the official Indian Railways (IRCTC) website. But that’s much easier said than done!
If you’re just doing a shorter trip, it’s best to book train tickets through 12GoAsia. You’ll pay a significantly higher fee, but it’s a much smoother experience.
The above link is an affiliate link, but I did use 12GoAsia a few times before I got my IRCTC account set up, and I had no issues.
Aurangabad also has its own airport, with direct flights from Mumbai and Delhi.
Jaisalmer has changed a lot over the years. I first visited the city a couple of times in 2008 and 2009. Back then, there was only one little hotel/backpacker district situated to the northwest of the fort.
Today, that area is hardly recognizable. Now, the entire city has essentially become one massive tourist district, while there are a lot more options now within the fort itself.
Jaisalmer used to be known as a rare haven of calm amidst the chaos that is India. But that’s sadly no longer the case. However, if you find somewhere within the fort – ideally down a narrow alleyway – you’ll get a glimpse of the old, laidback Jaisalmer that used to win so many travelers’ hearts.
During my recent long visit to the city, I had a great experience at Diamond Guest House, situated right in the heart of the fort. The family that manages it were incredibly friendly and helpful, while my room had an amazing view overlooking the adjacent Jain temple.
Even if you don’t happen to get that room, you can still enjoy great views from their rooftop. All in all, as a budget traveler, it was easily my top accommodation experience in India.
As mentioned above, I also stayed outside the fort at Hotel Tofu Safari during my first few nights in town. And that’s who I booked my Jaisalmer Desert Safari with. The hotel was well-located and reasonably priced, but upon arriving and seeing how much the city had changed, I knew I wanted to stay within the fort instead.