Last Updated on: 24th October 2025, 08:05 am
Experiencing a Desert Safari is often touted as one of the can’t-miss experiences in Jaisalmer, if not Rajasthan as a whole. The tour consists of a jeep ride out to the Thar Desert, followed by a camel ride, and then a night under the stars. But before you book, there are a number of things that you should know.
My perspective is a bit unique, as I actually experienced a Jaisalmer Desert Safari around fifteen years prior to my most recent experience in 2025. And while I did enjoy it the second time, I couldn’t believe how much the desert had changed.
As you walk around Jaisalmer, you’ll find countless promotional posters depicting pristine dunes as far as the eye can see. And while that is what I saw my first time around, that’s not quite what I witnessed upon my return.
For more information on booking a Jaisalmer Desert Safari, how to reach Jaisalmer and where to stay in town, be sure to check the end of the article.
Experiencing a Jaisalmer Desert Safari Tour
Upon my arrival in Jaisalmer, I first stayed at a hotel named Tofu Safari, which is probably more known for its safari tours than for the hotel itself. And so I decided to go through them, ignoring all of the touts and tourist agencies around town.
The total cost for the one-night excursion was Rs 2500 which seems to be fairly standard at the moment. On the day of the tour, we departed around 14:00 in the afternoon, not getting back to town until around 10:30 the next morning.
There were five people in our group, and we hopped in a jeep for a bumpy ride through the rural outskirts of Jaisalmer for about an hour or so. Then, upon getting out, we were immediately directed to our camels.
For those with big bags, one camel acted as a porter for everyone’s luggage. With that said, it’s best to pack light for the desert – just to be sure to bring some warm clothing for nighttime!
Before setting off on the journey, we were told that the ride would last an hour. But in reality, it was just thirty minutes. In any case, I was more than ready to be done by the time thirty minutes were over!
If you’ve never been on a camel before, the experience is much, much rockier than riding a horse. And given how high off the ground you’ll be, this probably isn’t an experience for those with a fear of heights.
I found very little to hold onto other than a small vertical metal bar, and I constantly had to readjust my grip to prevent my hand from slipping.
Though my camel was thankfully calm, things got especially bumpy when the trail went even slightly uphill or downhill. And I had to anticipate this before daring to take my hands off the grip to snap photos.
Aside from the bumpy ride, I was rather shocked to see so many massive wind turbines that certainly weren’t there during my previous visit. Nor do they appear in any of the promotional photos around town!
Whatever your thoughts are on wind energy as a concept, it would be hard to argue that these turbines don’t become major eyesores wherever they’re placed.
Eventually, the young boys guiding the camels signaled for them to stop and sit down. The ride was finally over.
We could now explore the dunes on foot for a while. It was late afternoon and the lighting was perfect. But I still couldn’t help but feel that something was off.
The wind turbines weren’t the only major change I’d noticed since my previous visit. While you could indeed see unblemished sand dunes from certain angles, I was surprised by how green the desert now looked.
Had we not come far enough out enough? I wondered. Had I possibly been scammed?
The Thar Desert covers a total area of 200,000 square km, with most of it located in Rajasthan. And in ancient times, the desert was home to vital trade routes between India and Central Asia – a major reason for Jaisalmer’s prosperity.
While that technically ended as a result of the Partition of India in 1947, the smuggling of goods to and from Pakistan boosted the local economy for decades until a border fence was finally erected in 1988.
Today, Jaisalmer largely thrives on tourism, with Desert Safaris being one of its main draws. And clearly, the Thar Desert is now a major hub for wind energy.
But why has the desert become so green?
According to locals I spoke with, the area has seen a major increase in rainfall from monsoons in recent years. And on top of that, the general area has also seen a major population boost, with manmade irrigation and agriculture resulting in further greening.
While greening is often seen as a good thing, one wonders if it could have lasting effects on the local tourism industry once more and more people find out that the Thar Desert no longer looks like it does in the promotional photos.
After watching a beautiful sunset, it was time to sit around the campfire that had been prepared by the staff. While the curry-based meal was nothing spectacular, it certainly wasn’t bad.
While you never know who you’re going to end up with on group tours, the other members were fortunately friendly and interesting to chat with, and we spent a while conversing by the fire.
Some Korean girls in the group mentioned that they had actually just been on another Desert Safari. And they explained that there were three main places to set up camp, and that ours was supposed to be the best.
It was then that I realized that no, we probably hadn’t been scammed. Then again, tours like this one feature recent guest photos that lack wind turbines, so who really knows!
Note that while some Jaisalmer Desert Safari excursions feature live performances of traditional Rajasthani music, you’ll typically have to pay extra for those.
As we chatted, the staff had been setting up the bedding. But contrary to my prior experience, during which we slept on proper beds laid out on the sand, here we were given nothing but hard mats, together with a sleeping bag and some blankets.
My trip took place in winter, and the desert felt freezing at night. I could barely sleep from the cold and also the hard surface, and was glad that I had nothing special planned for the following day.
With all that said, the night stars were absolutely spectacular, and that viewing experience alone was probably worth the price of the whole tour.
Early next morning, we cleared our things and were served a simple breakfast of eggs, cookies, and even a few guavas.
Next, the boys from the previous day got the camels ready, and it was time to return to the jeep. But four out of five of us preferred to just walk rather than ride!
So is a Jaisalmer Desert Safari tour worth it? Despite my disappointment with the current state of the Thar Desert and the uncomfortable sleep, it was hard to complain given the Rs 2500 I paid.
And if you’re already coming to Jaisalmer, then yes, I think it’s worth giving the Desert Safari a try.
But for those with just a couple of days in the area, it would be best to focus on exploring the fort and the various havelis around town.
And I certainly wouldn’t recommend coming to Jaisalmer with the Desert Safari as your main goal. Instead, focus on seeking out a night in a more pristine desert elsewhere in the world (like Egypt, perhaps).
Additional Info
Jaisalmer is located at the western edge of India, so getting there is always going to be a bit of a detour.
It’s possible to come as far as Delhi, with the Delhi-Jaisalmer Express train being a long overnight journey.
Most travelers will likely be coming from another place in Rajasthan, and one can reach the city directly from Jodhpur, Bikaner, Ajmer, and Jaipur. Those coming from Udaipur will have to transfer in Ajmer, the nearest major station to Pushkar.
If you have limited time in India but don’t want to miss Jaisalmer, it’s also possible to fly into Jaisalmer Airport. You can reach it from cities like Jaipur, Mumbai and Bangalore.
If you’re doing a long trip through India, it’s best to create an account on the official Indian Railways (IRCTC) website. But that’s much easier said than done!
If you’re just doing a shorter trip, it’s best to book train tickets through 12GoAsia. You’ll pay a significantly higher fee, but it’s a much smoother experience.
The above link is an affiliate link, but I did use 12GoAsia a few times before I got my IRCTC account set up, and I had no issues.
Aurangabad also has its own airport, with direct flights from Mumbai and Delhi.
Jaisalmer has changed a lot over the years. I first visited the city a couple of times in 2008 and 2009. Back then, there was only one little hotel/backpacker district situated to the northwest of the fort.
Today, that area is hardly recognizable. Now, the entire city has essentially become one massive tourist district, while there are a lot more options now within the fort itself.
Jaisalmer used to be known as a rare haven of calm amidst the chaos that is India. But that’s sadly no longer the case. However, if you find somewhere within the fort – ideally down a narrow alleyway – you’ll get a glimpse of the old, laidback Jaisalmer that used to win so many travelers’ hearts.
During my recent long visit to the city, I had a great experience at Diamond Guest House, situated right in the heart of the fort. The family that manages it were incredibly friendly and helpful, while my room had an amazing view overlooking the adjacent Jain temple.
Even if you don’t happen to get that room, you can still enjoy great views from their rooftop. All in all, as a budget traveler, it was easily my top accommodation experience in India.
As mentioned above, I also stayed outside the fort at Hotel Tofu Safari during my first few nights in town. And that’s who I booked my Jaisalmer Desert Safari with. The hotel was well-located and reasonably priced, but upon arriving and seeing how much the city had changed, I knew I wanted to stay within the fort instead.
Booking a Desert Safari Tour in Jaisalmer is pretty simple. Just show up, and pretty much any hotel in town can arrange one for you. And you’ll also likely get approached by people on the street who will ask you to come on theirs. As mentioned above, I paid Rs 2,500 for my tour.
It’s also possible to pay a bit more and book something online in advance. That allows you to read reviews so you can know exactly what to expect.
If I had to do things again, I would’ve booked something like this tour. Not only do they take you to an interesting abandoned village before the camel ride, but looking at guests’ photos, they also seem to take visitors out to a part of the desert that hasn’t yet been ruined by wind turbines!