Last Updated on: 3rd December 2025, 05:20 am
Having spent a cumulative 1.5 years of my life in India, I’d have to say that Mandu is my favorite Indian town. That honor previously belonged to Jaisalmer, a place which has since lost much of its charm due to development and overcrowding. Mandu remains well off the beaten path thanks to being off the Indian rail network and far from a major airport. Not only does it contain countless landmarks to explore, but it’s a rare oasis of calm in an especially hectic country. As such, one of the top things to do in Mandu is freely exploring it’s medieval monuments by bicycle at your own pace.
This is Part 2 of our complete guide to Mandu, a place with so much to see that a single article can’t cover it. In Part 1, we covered the three ticketed areas of Mandu, but everything featured below can be explored for free at the time of writing. While some landmarks are indeed marked on Google Maps, visitors are also bound to discover a lot by chance.
While one could technically visit Mandu as a day trip from Indore and see a few of the key sites before heading back, that would be missing the point. Mandu is not only about its landmarks, but its beautiful and quiet surroundings – not to mention its hospitable locals.
In Part 1, we delved into the history of Mandu and the background of many of its main sites. While we will be covering some more history below, Part 2 is more focused on the experience of riding around Mandu over the course of 3-4 days.
For information on reaching Mandu from Indore or Maheshwar along with where to stay in town, be sure to check the end of the article.
Confusingly, Mandu is also known as Mandav. And that’s the name you’ll see on Google Maps. While I did hear some locals use the name Mandav, most people generally seem to call the town Mandu, so that’s the name we’ll be sticking with throughout this guide.
Getting Around Mandu
While numerous sites should be walkable from your hotel, the best way to explore Mandu is by bicycle. You can rent a bicycle from a small family-run shop situated right next to the Chalain Food Hub on Mandu Road (a bit north of Hotel Shivani Resort).
At the time of my visit, rentals cost just Rs 150 per day. Just be sure to get there early, as you may run into a situation where all the bikes have already been rented out.
In my case, I was traveling in winter and the mornings were quite cold. Each morning, I’d show up to the rental shop to claim my bike and then have some coffee and breakfast next door. Once the weather got a bit warmer, I’d then set off on my adventure for the day.
While I’d never want to ride a bicycle in a typical Indian city, as mentioned above, Mandu is a small town surrounded by countryside and the area sees little traffic. Furthermore, the drivers you do come across tend to be a lot less aggressive than elsewhere.
Mandu Guide (Pt. 2) Contents
This map includes both paid and free attractions around town
North Mandu
Part 2 of this guide to the top free things to do in Mandu covers the district from north to south. In my case, I spent my first afternoon in Mandu at the Royal Enclave Group (featured in Part 1) before heading north the next morning.
After that, I explore the attractions around the center before focusing on the South and Southwest areas during my next two days.
Ujala Baodi / Gada Shah's Shop
Ujala Baodi and Gada Shah’s shops are arguably some of the top free attractions in Mandu. An easy bicycle ride north from the center of town, I first passed Gada Shah’s Shop only to find the gate locked.
Heading further north, the gate to Ujala Baodi was open, and from there I was able to walk over to Gada Shah’s Shop as well.
Ujala Baodi is a fascinating multi-story stepwell with a complex series of staircases and small niches. While many of Mandu’s wells were covered over, this one was built to remain open to the elements.
Continuing south on foot, I arrive at Gada Shah’s shop. If you’ve already explored the Royal Enclave Group that we covered in Part 1, you’ll notice how similar the exterior looks to the Hindola Mahal, with its tall, sloped arches.
And parts of the interior look similar as well. Considering how the Hindola Mahal was built as a royal assembly hall, one wonders if this structure was really just an indoor bazaar as historians claim.
In any case, it’s a fun building to explore, and there’s a very high chance that you’ll have it all to yourself. You could even consider bringing a book and having a long, undisturbed reading session.
Also nearby is a covered baodi, or water tank. It’s reminiscent of the Champa Baodi that you’ll find at the Royal Enclave Group that we covered in Part 1. And speaking of that group, the area around Gadah Shah’s Shop offers a clear view of the Jahaz Mahal across a large field.
It seems highly likely, therefore, that the two areas were connected in antiquity.
Delhi Gate
Past Ujala Baodi / Gada Shah’s Shop, you can continue riding north for several minutes until you reach the Delhi Gate.
Mandu is home to at least six ancient gates, but in this guide we’ll only be covering two of them, as the rest are just too far for most people to comfortably reach by bicycle.
As the name suggests, the elaborate Delhi Gate faces north in the direction of Delhi. Be sure to walk through it and down some of the steps, upon which you’ll be greeted with great views of the surrounding plateaus.
As you head back into town, you can also make a quick detour to see what remains of an old watchtower, now a popular hangout spot for local cows.
Central Mandu
By ‘Central Mandu,’ we’re referring to ruins one can find in or within easy walking distance of the modern town. Both the Royal Enclave Group and the Tomb of Hoshang Shah that we covered in Part 1 are located in this area as well.
The Tower of Victory / Mahmud Khilji's Tomb
Located right in the heart of town, the Tower of Victory and the Tomb of Mahmud Khilji are situated across the street from the Tomb of Hoshang Shah. And collectively the three attractions make up Mandu’s ‘Village Group.’
But for whatever reason, only the Tomb of Hoshang Shah requires an entrance ticket (Rs 300) while the others appear completely free to access.
Ascending a staircase, you’ll first reach the Tower of Victory. Notably, this area was originally home to a madrasa, or Islamic center of learning, established by Hoshang Shah. It was originally known as Ashrafi Mahal.
The location was fitting, as in between this space and his tomb stood the Jama Masjid, Mandu’s largest mosque (see Part 1 for more details).
But the next major ruler of Mandu, Mahmud Khalji (r. 1436-69), added a seven-story tower, next to which he established his tomb. But most of the tower is now missing.
The spacious open platform is home to the Sultan’s tomb, but it too is in poor condition. For whatever reason, despite Hoshang Shah’s nearby tomb remaining in impeccable condition, Mahmud Khalji’s collapsed at some point.
Before leaving, be sure to head back down the steps and walk around the base of the platform where you’ll encounter extensive ruins of the Ashrafi Mahal madrasa. Walking along most of the platform, I was surprised by how far the ruins actually extended.
Sunset Point
An easy walk from the town center, the aptly-named Sunset Point isn’t just a great place for sunsets, but it’s home to some remarkable historical structures as well.
In addition to a lone tower, which was likely built around the same time as the landmarks mentioned above, the lower section is home to one of Mandu’s oldest surviving sites.
Known as the Lohani Caves, this space was once a Hindu temple complex which predates Mandu’s Islamic era. A couple of ancient temple pillars remain standing near the cliff, and you’ll also find manmade caves situated behind a small waterfall.
Interestingly, despite Mandu’s rich Islamic heritage, there hardly seem to be any Muslim inhabitants today.
You’ll find some active Hindu temples in the town center, and the local family that accompanied me to Sunset Point would later take me there.
The same family also told me that the jungles beneath the plateau are where members of the Bhil tribe – another major segment of Mandu’s population – go to perform animistic rituals to this day. (To learn more about Madhya Pradesh’s large tribal population, be sure to visit the Tribal Museum in Bhopal.)
South Mandu
When discussing Mandu’s geography in relation to its landmarks, think of the historical sites as being spread out across an extremely elongated oval (see map above). But ‘Central Mandu,’ the around around the modern town, is actually located more in the north.
As such, we’ll be considering the extensive area in between the main town and the Rupmati Pavilion (covered in Part 1) to be ‘South Mandu.’
This is one of the most rewarding area of Mandu to explore, as in addition to two major clusters of landmarks, you’ll come across various tombs and caravanserais by chance, such as the Sarai Kothari pictured here.
Darya Khan's Tomb Group
When heading south from the town center, the first major cluster of ruins you’ll encounter is the Darya Khan’s Tomb Group. The main tomb, which remains in excellent condition, belongs to a minister of Mahmud Khilji II (r. 1510–1519).
Before reaching the tomb itself, you’ll encounter the Somvati Kund, a large rectangular pond.
Next, find an entrance through the towering walls and you’ll reach Darya Khan’s tomb. The tall mausoleum features a large central dome surrounded by four cupolas, and it appears to have been directly influenced by the Tomb of Hoshang Shah.
Along with that tomb, this is easily among the most impressive tombs you’ll encounter at Mandu.
Heading further south, you’ll encounter a large area comprised of additional ruins. Among them are a mosque, an unknown tomb, and the remains of a caravanserai. At the time of my visit, the complex was almost entirely taken over by local water buffaloes.
Tomb of Khadija Bibi
As I continued further south on my bicycle, I spotted yet another tomb in the distance that hadn’t come up in my research. And I couldn’t resist the temptation to make a detour down a dirt path to check it out.
It turns out that this tomb belongs to Khadija Bibi, a female Sufi saint. It doesn’t seem like much information exists about her, however.
Nevertheless, the tomb appears to be regularly maintained and looked after. Inside, you’ll find the grave of Khadija Bibi along with those of several other unidentified people.
The Sagar Talao Group
The most important and largest of the free attractions in southern Mandu is the Sagar Talao Group. The main structure here is Malik Mugith’s Mosque, established in 1452 by the father of Mahmud Khilji.
As mentioned earlier, the temple pillars outside the Lohani Caves are a rare example of ancient Hindu architecture that remains in situ.
The reason for that is that most of the stone from Mandu’s temples was usurped to build mosques, as can be seen at those established by Dilawar Khan and Hoshang Shah. And this mosque also followed that trend.
While it’s regrettable that so many temples have been irretrievably lost, we at least get to enjoy some fascinating early examples of Indo-Islamic architecture.
The Hindu influence is obvious both on the porch and when examining the pillars of the colonnades.
This was one of the rare free attractions in Mandu that I did not have all to myself, as it appears to be a popular backdrop for wedding photography – a booming industry in India.
Across from the mosque is an old caravanserai that was off-limits at the time of my visit, but it appeared rather huge when peaking through the gates.
Also nearby is a landmark known as Dai ki Chhoti Bahen, a tomb for a royal nurse established atop a large base.
Further south is yet another tomb belonging to a royal nurse. It’s known as Dai Ka Mahal, and the tomb stands amongst an elaborate series of ruins which include a former mosque. A few of the archways of the original structure are still intact.
Further south still, in the middle of a large field, is a third tomb which sits on top of a large square platform. Given its size, the mausoleum clearly belonged to an important individual. But mysteriously, archaeologists have no idea who’s interred within!
From atop the platform, you can enjoy views of some nearby ponds. The Sagar Talao after which this group was named, meanwhile, is a lake that you can find on the other side of the road.
Continuing further south along this route, you’ll eventually reach the Rupmati Pavilion.
'Tomb and Mosque'
On another day, when riding down Mandav Road (which runs parallel to Mandu Road – home to Darya Khan’s Tomb and the Sagar Talao Group), I stumbled across yet more structures by surprise.
Workers were renovating and clearing away the grass for a tomb and mosque combo, though not much information seems to exist about it.
Chor Kot Mosque
A bit further south down Mandav Road is the Chor Kot Mosque, a highly dilapidated yet fascinating structure given its massive size. Little seems to be known about its history, though it appears to have been the largest mosque in this area.
It’s unclear whether or not this structure is officially open to the public, but the gate was unlocked during my visit.
Southwest Mandu
On my final full day in Mandu, I made the long journey out to two distant sites in the district’s southwest. While I wasn’t expecting much, they turned out to be some of my favorite landmarks in the area.
Tarapur Gate
To reach Tarapur Gate, you’ll have to turn off of Mandav Road down an unnamed road that leads all the way to the edge of the plateau.
While manageable, the road that follows is one of Mandu’s roughest. It will take you through a rather impoverished tribal area, and in addition to countless potholes, you’ll repeatedly have to dodge goats, dogs and cows in the road.
While I got lots of stares, most people seemed quite pleased to see a foreign visitor – especially the village children.
Tarapur Gate itself is quite impressive, but the views around here are also easily some of Mandu’s finest. Be sure to look out for the staircase which will take you to the top of the wall. You can then walk along it to the top of the main gate.
While you’re unlikely to find any other tourists here, the gate does seem to be a popular hangout for the nearby villagers.
Fort Songarh
Yet another one of the top free things to do in Mandu is to bike all the way to Fort Songarh, situated along the westernmost point of Mandav Road.
It’s a long and tiring journey to get there, but you should still manage with one of the gearless rental bikes they offer in town. There are a few steep sections that you may have to walk up, however.
While it likely originated during the medieval Sultanate period, it was later renovated by the Maratha Empire after they took control of the region.
Given all the attacks and takeovers that Mandu experienced throughout its history, Fort Songarh was surely put to heavy use. Be that as it may, there’s not a whole lot of it left. But the views from the top more than make up for that.
As I was on my way out, I encountered a local family who were on their way to pray at a Hindu temple situated further inland, and they invited me to come with them.
The temple seemed to still be under construction, and all that I saw was a large rock with a small shrine in front. While I’m not sure of its significance, it seems like an important pilgrimage spot for many Madhya Pradesh residents.
Additional Info
Mandu is a bit complicated to reach. But after seeing how crowded other historical towns in India can get, its inaccessibility should be considered a positive.
Mandu cannot be accessed by rail, so you’ll need to either take a bus or private car (as little as Rs 2000 on Uber) from Indore, the nearest major city.
Actually, you will need to take two buses from Indore. While I’d read online about an 8:00 AM direct bus departing from the Gangwal Bus Stand, I can confirm that no such direct bus exists anymore.
Luckily, however, the transfer is not so difficult. First, you’ll want to take a bus to Dhar. These leave throughout the day from either the Gangwal Bus Stand or the Sarwate Bus Stand near Indore’s railway station.
While I can only speak about the Gangwal Bus Stand, all signs and locations written on buses were 100% in Hindi. But just tell someone you want to go to Dhar or Mandu and they should direct you to the correct bus.
Thinking a direct bus existed, I’d initially told the drivers I wanted to go to Mandu, and I paid them Rs 140 which covered my entire journey. The drive to Dhar took a little over an hour, and once there, the drivers directed me to where I could find the bus to Mandu.
They also made sure to tell the next driver that I’d already paid the entire fare. Everyone understood the process and I was not asked to pay again.
People in this part of India are very kind and helpful despite the language barrier, and I ended up making it to Mandu with no issues.
I finally arrived in Mandu about three hours after my initial departure. Though I got a taxi to my hotel, I later realized that I could’ve just walked.
If you’re visiting Mandu from Maheshwar instead of Indore, you should be able to hire a private car for around Rs 1000-15000. The ride just lasts about an hour.
Mandu is quite a small town, so as long as you’re somewhat centrally located, you should be fine. But if you’re a budget traveler, there aren’t so many options at the time of writing.
I stayed at the Mandu Homestay (which is not a homestay, but a normal budget hotel). It’s conveniently located near the Royal Enclave Group. It was a very barebones hotel but it did include a private bathroom and a water heater.
The staff were quite friendly and accommodating, though they frequently had get-togethers in the lobby and courtyard outside, so things could get rather noisy.
Mandu Homestay is also located next to a little corner store run by a very friendly and hospitable family.
Another budget option is Madai Resort which seems to have great reviews.
Mandav Hills Resort & Film City is quite a popular midrange option. But when briefly checking it out after stopping at a nearby cafe, it was packed with guests and it seemed rather chaotic and noisy.
As mentioned above, while it’s possible to see the highlights of Mandu in a single day, the town’s magic can only really be appreciated by taking things slow over the course of a few days or more.
Nevertheless, if you simply don’t have the time, visiting for a day is better than nothing. This tour departs from Indore and takes you to the three main ticketed attractions featured above.