Last Updated on: 9th April 2026, 12:07 pm
Kabul is a bustling city of around 5 million people with millennia of history. Most people around the world, however, only associate the city’s name with war and terror. But, at the time of writing, the Afghan capital is now safer than it has been in many years. And in this Kabul guide, we’ll be covering what the city has to offer adventurous travelers willing to experience it firsthand.
The following article is meant to be a travel guide rather than a piece of journalism. But with so much mystery and fear surrounding Kabul and Afghanistan as a whole, I’ll aim to shed light on what the situation is really like – at least from the eyes of a foreign visitor.
Things in Taliban-controlled Afghanistan are a lot more nuanced than the Western mainstream press would have you believe, and I’ll try to keep things honest and unbiased.
Note: At the time of my visit, foreign tourists were completely free to wander the streets of Kabul on their own. But recently, the rules seem to have tightened. Check the end of the article for more details on permits, along with info on accommodation and transportation in Kabul.
Around Central Kabul
This section focuses on some different attractions that you’ll be able to reach on foot, provided that you’re based in the Shar-e Naw district. Wazir Akbar Khan Hill should also be accessible on foot for those who like walking.
Shar-e Naw
Shar-e Naw is the commercial heart of Kabul and where you’ll likely be staying. It’s clean and home to modern shopping malls, international restaurants, and cafes.
You’ll also see plenty of locals walking around in t-shirts and jeans, whereas in other districts, just about everyone wears the traditional shalwar kameez.
The top thing to do in Shar-e Naw is simply walk around and hang out. I enjoyed heading to Slice Cafe each morning for an Americano. Looking back, Shar-e Naw was one of the only places in the country where I could find real coffee.
And as much as I loved Afghan food (which is far superior to that of the ‘stans’ further north), I sometimes visited the Turkish restaurant in Majid Mall to change things up.
Speaking of Majid Mall, the ATM machine there works with most foreign cards. And one time while waiting in line, I found myself behind senior Taliban officials who took quite an interest in me. Despite the language barrier, they shook my hand and welcomed me to the country.
The spacious Shar-e Naw park sits in the center of the district, while Antique Alley is definitely worth a walk through during your time in the city.
Abdul Rahman Mosque
As mentioned, those based in Shar-e Naw can get to a number of major landmarks on foot, such as the Abdul Rahman Mosque. It was constructed throughout the 2000s following the end of the first Taliban era. It’s now one of the country’s largest.
Foreign visitors will need to have their permit on hand (see below) to enter the premises. Just note that unlike most Islamic countries, Afghanistan prohibits non-Muslims from entering mosques.
So even after showing the proper documents, you can usually just view the structures from the outside.
Shah-Do Shamshira Mosque
Another important mosque in the city is the Shah-Do Shamshira Mosque. Like a number of other structures in this guide, it was built during the reign of Amanullah Khan (1919–1929).
If it looks a bit familiar, that’s because it was modeled after Istanbul’s Ortaköy Mosque.
The Bird Market
The Ka Faroshi Bird Market is often touted as one of Kabul’s top things to do. But perhaps it’s a bit overhyped. Yes, it’s a market, and yes, there are colorful birds for sale.
But I found some of the surrounding local markets along Maiwand Road to be just as interesting.
Speaking of markets, Kabul was once home to the ‘Bush Bazaar’ which was infamous for selling military gear and weapons left behind by US and NATO troops. But it seems that the Taliban largely put a stop to it, with the area now mainly selling health supplements.
Wazir Akbar Khan Hill
One of the best vantage points of Kabul can be enjoyed from Wazir Akbar Khan Hill, located to the northeast of Shar-e Naw.
Wazir Akbar Khan is also its own district. It’s one of Kabul’s most upscale neighborhoods and is home to various embassy buildings. Most Western embassies, of course, have remained vacant since the Taliban retook the country in 2021.
But the embassies of nearby countries, such as Tajikistan and Uzbekistan, seem to be operating normally, along with those of China and Russia.
Reaching the base of the hill, I spoke with a friendly guard who told me that I couldn’t just follow the road up. Rather, pedestrians had to walk up a makeshift dirt trail that cut through the forest.
Eventually, though, the dirt path will lead you to a road anyway. I first turned to the right to take pictures of the cityscape through the trees. But I soon realized that I’d end up at a military base if I kept walking, so I quickly turned around. (Photographing anything military or police-related is a huge no-no in Afghanistan.)
Interestingly, looking off into the distance, you can actually see as far as Maranjan Hill (more below).
I actually visited this hill the day after my arrival in the country, which happened to be a Friday – a day when all government offices are closed. That means that I couldn’t get my permit from the Ministry of Information and Culture until the following day.
For what it’s worth, I wasn’t actually asked for my permit here – only my passport. But things could always change. Most other religious sites featured in this Kabul guide did require me to show a permit to enter.
The top of the hill is home to the well-manicured Bibi Mahro Public Park. And walking through it, you’ll arrive at a massive flagpole and a mosque. The mosque is said to be dedicated to Mullah Omar, the founder of the Taliban, and it’s modeled after Jerusalem’s Al-Aqsa Mosque.
As for the flag, a massive flag was first raised here (about 80 m high) in 2016 to commemorate 99 years of Afghan independence from Britain. And then once the Taliban retook the country in 2021, they switched it to their preferred design.
The previous tricolor flag (black, red and green) was modeled after numerous older Afghan flag designs. The Taliban’s flag, meanwhile, features the Arabic Shahada in simple black-and-white.
But most foreign countries and tech companies continue to use the tricolor version even years after the official switch.
As for the hill itself, it’s named after a 19th-century prince of the Barakzai dynasty. He was also a military commander who fought against the British before becoming the Emir of Afghanistan in 1842. But he’d die the next year of cholera.
Supposedly, he once built a castle atop this hill, but it doesn’t seem accessible to the public.
Sakhi Shrine
Located in the Kart-e Sakhi district in the western part of the city, Sakhi Shrine – also known as the Blue Mosque or Sakhi Shah-e Mardan Shrine – is one of Kabul’s most iconic monuments.
It’s not just one of the city’s most eye-catching buildings, but it also plays an important role in local lore.
The cloak of the Prophet Muhammad was supposedly brought here and briefly kept on its way to Kandahar, where it’s now kept in the Shrine of the Cloak.
Though originally taken to Uwais al-Qarani, Saudi Arabia upon the Prophet Muhammad’s death, it was eventually taken to Baghdad and then to Samarkand (or some say Bukhara) by Timur. And then after being taken to India, the cloak moved around to various parts of Afghanistan.
Finally in 1768, Ahmad Shah Durrani, the founder of the Durrani Empire, decided to move the cloak to Kandahar (then capital). And during the journey from northeast Afghanistan, his men stopped along the way here in Kabul.
And during that time, they had a dream in which they saw Imam Ali come to this very spot (it’s Ali who Shias regard as Muhammad’s true successor) with his trademark double-tipped sword, the Zulfiqar.
And so Ahmad Shah Durrani commissioned a shrine to be built at this location.
Confusingly, according to some versions of the legend, the actual Zulfiqar is enshrined here, despite it only appearing in a dream centuries after Ali’s death.
In any case, following the shrine’s initial construction, the mother of the Emir of Afghanistan, Amanullah Khan, added another dome in 1919. And then another four domes were added quite recently between 2008 and 2016.
Accordingly, the current tiles, which were inspired by the architecture of Safavid Persia, were added during this time period as well.
As you can probably guess, this is a Shia shrine, while the Taliban are Sunni. To make matters more complex, most local visitors to the shrine are Hazaras, a people who have long been at odds with the Pashtun Taliban.
Shias make up about 15-20% of Afghanistan, and during the first reign of the Taliban (1996-2001), its leaders referred to Shias as heretics.
But since the Taliban’s return to power, they seem to have taken a softer stance, granting Shias legal recognition. And it’s now the Taliban that’s guarding and protecting Shia monuments around the country from potential ISIS attacks. (ISIS killed 33 people here back in 2018).
Even to a complete outsider, the atmosphere at some Shia monuments in Afghanistan can feel a bit tense sometimes. And I had a rather odd experience upon my arrival at Sakhi Shrine.
After showing my permit paper to the Taliban guard at the entrance, he wanted to explain something to me, so he got the female security guard (assigned to inspect female visitors) to talk to me, as she spoke some English.
‘Don’t talk with anyone and don’t take pictures with anyone,’ she said. ‘What if someone comes and talks with me?’ I asked. ‘Don’t talk with anyone,’ she repeated. ‘But what if they just approach me and start talking?’ I asked again. ‘Don’t talk with anyone.’ ‘Even if they just say hello?’ ‘Don’t talk with anyone.’ (Looking back, this was the only thing resembling a conversation with an Afghan adult female I had during my entire stay in the country.)
Later on as I was leaving, a random guy did start talking with me, but from a distance. And I was actually right in front of the Taliban guard at this point. ‘Afghanistan no good!’ he shouted at me in English. I couldn’t tell if he was a jokester who was acquainted with the guard, or if he was just incredibly brave.
I visited Sakhi Shrine following a day trip with a driver to Paghman, and my driver later drove me a bit up the hill overlooking the monument. From here, one can enjoy excellent views of the shrine, its neighboring cemeteries, and the dense hilltop residential district behind it.
Babur Garden
Babur Garden is both a peaceful respite from the chaos of the city and also one of Kabul’s most important historical sites.
The site costs 350 AF to enter and is open daily from 8:00-16:00. From Shar-e Naw, you’ll need to take a taxi to get here, but a visit can be combined with the National Museum and Darul Aman Palace located close by.
It’s here that Babur, the founder of the Mughal Empire, is buried. But the Mughal Empire was based in India. So why is its founder interred here in Afghanistan?
Babur (1483-1530), a direct descendant of Timur, was born in Andijan, Uzbekistan. But he lost much of his territory in Central Asia to rival khans before eventually making Kabul his new capital.
And from Kabul, he later launched raids into north India, defeating the Sultanate of Delhi and making Agra the capital of his new empire. But he always had a major soft spot for Kabul, and he desired to be buried here upon his death.
(Notably, Kabul would remain under Mughal control until the 18th century.)
Similar to other Mughal gardens (which were in turn largely influenced by traditional Persian gardens), Babur Garden has a symmetrical layout that’s divided by a central axis.
While it fell into a state of decay due to years of war, a major restoration effort took place in 2008 which brought the garden back to how it looked in Babur’s time. At 11 hectares in total, it’s Kabul’s largest public green space.
Shah Jahan, who visited the garden in 1647, added a marble mosque and new water channels to the garden. Today, there are still visible bullet holes in his mosque left by the civil war of the ’90s.
Babur was actually originally buried in Agra in 1530, but his body was moved here a decade later. His marble headstone was erected by Emperor Jahangir, his great-grandson.
I visited Babur Garden (along with the next few locations in this guide) with a pair of local brothers, one of whom I met in a shared taxi in Peshawar, Pakistan on our way to the Torkham Border.
The other brother was rather well-connected during the previous regime, and he said that he used to organize events and concerts in one of the garden’s pavilions. But with live music officially banned since the Taliban takeover in 2021, such events are forbidden, while Afghan musicians have had to flee in order to make a living.
Furthermore, the Babur Garden is having difficulty with attendance, as females are currently forbidden from visiting – even in the company of male relatives. But the rule doesn’t seem to currently apply to female foreign tourists.
Another one of the garden’s significant structures is the Queen’s Palace, added in the 1890s by Amir Abdur Rahman Khan. It became the garden’s first permanent residential structure.
Though it was left in a terribly dilapidated state, it’s recently been almost entirely reconstructed by the Aga Khan Trust For Culture.
Before leaving the garden, be sure to check out the souvenir shops near the entrance. This is one of the best places in Kabul to find gems like lapis lazuli for a reasonable price.
The National Museum of Afghanistan
As the name suggests, the National Museum of Afghanistan is the country’s flagship museum. But it’s faced a lot of challenges over the years. And given both present and past circumstances, we should be grateful that it’s still welcoming visitors.
At the time of writing, basic entry costs 100 AF for foreigners, while there’s an extra 200 AF fee for photography. It’s generally open from Saturday to Thursday from 8:00, with Thursday being a half-day.
The museum supposedly once boasted a collection of 100,000 artifacts, but many of them were tragically destroyed in the civil war of the 1990s. And then the Taliban came to power in 1996.
During the Taliban’s first period of rule, they initially believed in the importance of preserving Afghanistan’s ancient heritage. But they reversed the policy in early 2001, resulting in the infamous destruction of the Buddhas of Bamyan.
They also closed this museum, supposedly destroying various objects and hiding many others. But now, since the Taliban’s return to power, they’ve softened in regard to displaying pre-Islamic artifacts. Sculptures depicting the full human form, however, remain forbidden.
On that note, stepping into the entrance hall, you’ll encounter a statue of Kanishka the Great from the 2nd century AD. Only the lower half of the body remains (hence why it’s seemingly fine to display here).
And another statue of a Kushan prince – with missing limbs and head – stands nearby.
Also in the entrance hall is the Rabatak Inscription, one of the museum’s most significant surviving pieces. It’s a Kushan inscription from the 2nd century discovered in Baghlan Province. Fascinatingly, it was written in the Bactrian language but in the Greek script.
In terms of its content, it details the genealogy of Kanishka and various other aspects of the Kushan Empire, a vast empire that stretched from modern-day India to parts of Central Asia.
Another piece near the entrance is a large basin made of black marble that dates to the 16th century AD. Obtained in 1927 from the shrine of Sultan Wais Baba in Kandahar Province, it’s inscribed with the laws and regulations of a local madrasa in Persian.
The hallways also display various artifacts, such as bronze lamps and glazed ceramic bowls from the 11th-13th centuries.
You’ll also find examples of marble gravestones from the 16th-18th centuries and knives and weaponry from the 14th-17th centuries. And another case displays Afghan embroidery from the 19th-20th centuries.
One particularly interesting exhibit displays various carved wooden pillars from Nuristan, a green and mountainous province near the border with Pakistan. Traditionally, it was known as Kafiristan, or ‘Land of the Infidels.’
Similar to the Kalasha tribe on the other side of the border, Nuristan’s people long maintained pagan beliefs and practices which scholars have likened to animism or perhaps a proto-Vedic religion. (But they have since been Islamized.)
Like the Kalasha, Nuristanis traditionally created human-like effigies which were intended to absorb the souls of warriors during the funeral, thus allowing the deceased to continue protecting the tribe.
The Taliban originally destroyed many of them. But as depicted in photos hanging on the wall, they were restored and displayed in this room during the Islamic Republic / US Occupation period.
But unsurprisingly, none of the human-like effigies are in the room now, and it’s unclear what’s happened to them.
The remaining wooden pillars here are all abstract. These ones may have been intended to offer spiritual protection, while some of the symbols may represent certain clans or maybe even metaphysical concepts.
On the upper floor, a couple of rooms are entirely dedicated to Afghanistan’s former great Buddhist cities. One of them is Mes Aynak, a thriving city located in Kabul Province. But we’ll be covering that in a separate guide dedicated to Kabul’s Gandhara heritage.
Another major exhibit is dedicated to the ancient city of Ai Khanoum, a major city of Greco-Bactria now situated along the border with Tajikistan (according to my research, the site is very difficult to reach and requires special permits – and you still might get detained upon arrival!).
Following the invasion of Alexander the Great, many of his soldiers remained in the region, and Hellenic culture thrived alongside Buddhism, which had been introduced by King Ashoka of the Mauryan Empire.
A large kingdom known as Greco-Bactria emerged (with Balk as its main city), but it was subsequently absorbed into the Kushan Empire. And under the Kushans, Greek, Buddhist and Zoroastrian philosophies thrived side-by-side.
Believe it or not, Afghanistan was once one of the most cosmopolitan regions of the world.
Another room focuses more broadly on ancient Bactria, and it displays objects like ancient Greek capitals and fragments of mural paintings.
Another important exhibit, meanwhile. is dedicated to various Bronze Age civilizations in Afghanistan. It houses artifacts like goblets, arrowheads, and jewelry dating back to 3000 BC.
Of special note is the so-called Amu River Civilization (also known as the Bactria–Margiana Archaeological Complex) which encompassed current Badakshan Province in northern Afghanistan.
It was this civilization that managed the mining and trade of lapis lazuli – a stone so prized by the ancient Egyptians and Babylonians. Lapis lazuli pretty much only comes from Badakshan.
Unsurprisingly, the National Museum of Afghanistan is also home to an impressive Islamic Civilization exhibit. And you’ll also find other rooms containing coins, weapons and models of traditional Afghan rooms.
Outside the main building is another area featuring old cars that once belonged to Afghanistan’s leaders.
Vehicles on display include a 1930s Cadillac of King Mohammad Zahir Shah, along with a 1923 Ford and an early 20th century Rolls Royce that belonged to King Amanullah Khan.
A more recent car, meanwhile, is a bulletproof Mercedes Benz that belonged to Mohammad Najibullah, president from 1987-1992.
Darul Aman Palace
Nearby the National Museum is another interesting landmark known as the Darul Aman Palace. Entrance costs 500 AF for foreigners, but finding the proper entrance can be a bit of a challenge.
You’ll also be chaperoned by a local guide who didn’t seem to speak English, so I was glad that I happened to be visiting with locals.
The massive palace consists of three stories and 150 rooms. It was built in the 1920s by Amanullah Khan, the Emir of Afghanistan from 1919-1926, and then King of Afghanistan from 1926-29.
Notably, this entire suburb of Darulaman was intended to serve as a new capital situated just outside of Kabul proper. And in an attempt to modernize Afghanistan at the time, Amanullah Khan hired architects from France and Germany to construct this palace in the Neoclassical style.
It even had running water and central heating – extremely rare features in Afghanistan at the time. (Even today, many of the neighborhoods up in the hills surrounding the city lack running water.)
The palace wasn’t just intended for the Emir/King to live in opulence, but was meant to serve as a future parliament building. Though it would never serve that purpose, it did host various government departments over the years.
Like a few other locations featured in this guide, it was heavily damaged in the civil war of the 1990s before being restored in the 2010s.
And though there was a plan to actually use Darul Aman Palace as a parliament building in 2005, a separate new parliament building was ultimately constructed just across from it.
The new parliament building was completed in 2015 with a grant from India. It’s yet another opulent building that the Taliban have inherited but don’t seem quite sure what to do with.
I actually had the chance to go inside, as coincidentally, the brothers I was hanging out with had a relative who worked there to help maintain it. And he happened to be working when we were in the area.
And so we headed over. But first, a group of Taliban guards sitting outside were wondering what a foreign visitor was doing there. My companions explained to them that I was simply a tourist with no ties to politics (all true) and that if I did anything wrong, they would bear all responsibility.
And so they reluctantly let me in on the condition that I didn’t take any photos.
All along the circular hallways were paintings of significant events from Afghan history, along with portraits of numerous former leaders. I also got to peek in at the main assembly room, which was of course empty.
It is indeed a nice building, so hopefully some future use can be found for it.
Maranjan Hill
As described thus far in this guide to Kabul, the city is home to some districts and buildings that are surprisingly for such a historically wartorn city. But if you’re looking for a grittier side of Kabul, check out Maranjan Hill.
You should be able to arrange a taxi from Shar-e-Naw for around 200 AF one-way.
As we’ll cover shortly, the hill is home to some significant tombs. But lots of people just come here for the striking views over Kabul. From here, you can see a different side of the city compared with Wazir Akbar Khan Hill mentioned above.
Upon my arrival, I walked over to the edge and took out my camera to photograph the views. But immediately, a man came over to me and started talking to me sternly in a language I didn’t understand as he pointed at my camera.
And then I realized he had an AK-47 – clearly a member of the Taliban.
At first, I thought he was telling me that photography wasn’t allowed and that I was breaking a rule. But after some back and forth involving body language, I realized that he just wanted to do an impromptu photo shoot!
Later, some other local visitors came over who wanted to pose with his AK-47, and a fun time was had by all.
After that experience, I went over to explore the tombs. The main one at the top of the hill belongs to Mohammad Zahir Shah, a former king of Afghanistan.
He was actually the last king of Afghanistan until he was deposed in 1973 after having ruled for nearly four decades.
I could also see a dilapidated tomb in the distance, though it’s unclear whose it is. And then a staircase leads to a subterranean level that’s home to multiple graves, one of them belonging to Mohammad Nadir Shah.
He was the king who took over when Amanullah Khan abdicated the throne. But he was ultimately assassinated in 1933, after which Mohammad Zahir Shah took over.
Though I didn’t realize it at the time, Maranjan Hill is (or was) home to an elaborate ancient Buddhist monastery. Apparently, nothing but foundations remain, but it still would’ve been nice to find them. I’m not sure exactly where they’re located, however.
The OMAR Mine Museum
From Maranjan Hill, it’s possible to walk to the final destination in this guide: the OMAR Mine Museum. Finding the entrance can be tricky, but it’s situated along Qilai Zaman Khan Rd. From the outside, it looks like a relatively ordinary military compound.
But talk to the guard at the front, and someone should come and lead you to the museum area. At the time of writing, tickets cost 500 AF for foreigners.
The museum was founded in 1994 by the Organization for Mine Clearance and Afghan Rehabilitation (OMAR). And its main purpose is to educate young Afghan children about landmines and how to avoid them.
Tragically, an average of three children get killed by unexploded ordnance every single day in Afghanistan.
It’s also sad to think about how, despite how strikingly beautiful Afghanistan is, it can never become a major trekking destination due to the landmine issue.
Visitors are normally accompanied by a guide, but the man who greeted me had an elementary school class to attend to (comprised of both boys and girls, by the way). And so he left me to explore on my own.
No less than 50 different types of landmines that have been placed throughout the country at some point are on display here, along with various types of weapons.
Outside, meanwhile, is a collection of fighter jets and helicopters from the Soviet-Afghan War.
On the topic of war, I spoke with a lot of different people around Kabul, some who were openly against the Taliban and others who were proud supporters.
Yet, regardless of which side they were on, just about everyone seemed to agree that Afghanistan is now the safest it’s been in many decades. Hopefully that holds true for years to come.
Additional Info
Kabul is now connected with a number of international destinations by air, including Islamabad, Istanbul, Dubai, and a few others.
For those traveling by land, it’s also possible to get to Kabul in a day from Peshawar, Pakistan via the Torkham Border crossing. But it’s widely regarded as one of the world’s most chaotic crossings. And it also frequently closes.
I managed to cross it without major issues, but it was easily one of my wildest ever travel experiences. I can’t simply summarize it here. Stay tuned for a future article entirely dedicated to the crossing experience.
If you’ve entered Afghanistan via another land border (all of which are a lot less chaotic than Torkham), you should easily be able to find direct transport to Kabul in the form of ‘VIP buses’ (fancy coach buses) or shared taxis.
The main place to consider staying in Kabul is the Shar-e Naw district. Not only is the neighborhood centrally located, but it’s home to modern shopping malls and coffee shops, allowing for a soft landing for those just entering the country.
From my experience traveling all over Afghanistan, Kabul was the only city where I could simply book a hotel on Booking. (Though things are always changing.)
The one I chose was Kabul Abdal Guest House, though it doesn’t seem to be on Booking anymore at the time of writing. The location was excellent and the staff were really friendly, but the main downside was cleanliness. (Looking back, even when paying roughly the same price in most cities, my experiences with hotel cleanliness varied greatly in Afghanistan, ranging from filthy to impeccably clean.)
Afghanistan isn’t the most budget-friendly country in the region when compared to its neighbors. But the cheapest option in town is Afghan Arya Guest House & Tours. The reviews look great, and I probably would’ve chosen it had it been on Booking at the time of my visit.
Another one of the most popular options for budget travelers in Kabul is Afghania Guest House, which seems to have been around for a long time. Just note that the bathrooms there are shared.
For a slightly higher price, the Khyber Hotel is another highly-rated option in Shar-e Naw.
While I can’t speak about every hotel, it would be wise to expect weak and spotty Wifi wherever you are in Afghanistan. That’s why it’s a good idea to obtain a local SIM card to use as a hotspot when necessary.
Kabul may have over 5 million people, but the center is surprisingly walkable. But for destinations that are just too far to walk, you should easily be able to find a taxi.
Afghanistan currently lacks ride-hailing apps, so you’ll have to do things the old-fashioned way. While you will have to haggle a bit – especially as a foreigner – I found taxi drivers in Kabul pretty easy to deal with overall, and they usually gave me fair prices.
It would be wise to ask your hotel for cost estimates before heading out. And when it comes to long-distance day trips, your hotel should be able to connect you with a reliable driver.
In my case, I went on a day trip once to Paghman with a driver arranged by my hotel. I got along with him, and after learning the street in Shar-e Naw where he typically hung out to wait for passengers, I’d often just go there first to see if he could take me to my destination within the city. If not, I’d find someone else.
If Kabul is your first destination in Afghanistan, you’re supposed to head to the Ministry of Information & Culture Office to obtain a permit for traveling around Kabul and around the country. (Note that this is separate from the visa you need in advance of your arrival.)
The government offices are open daily except Fridays, while they’ll also be closed on Islamic holidays. This schedule is something you need to anticipate in advance of your visit, as you may be denied entry to certain sites without your permit.
(Don’t expect to be randomly stopped while walking, though. I arrived on a Thursday evening and then walked through Kabul without a permit the next day with no issues. I finally got the permit on Saturday morning and nobody cared.)
The scheduling issue goes for pretty much every destination in Afghanistan, as you’ll be required to obtain additional local permits for each province that you stay in. But in regional offices, you’ll always have to show them your Kabul permit first.
Note that Google Maps can be unreliable when directing you to the government office. But you should find the main entrance to the fortified Taliban government compound near the shopping mall called Gulbahar Business Center (this is also a good place to get a SIM card).
This info is applicable if you’re doing things independently, however. Confusingly, I’m now reading reports of a guide being required to apply for permits in Kabul. Some people are saying it’s mandatory, while others are saying it’s not.
The situation is constantly changing for tourism in Afghanistan, so we’ll be listing everything in a single practical article and updating it when major changes occur.