Last Updated on: 23rd January 2026, 12:37 pm
Knowing that it was a bit off the tourist trail, I arrived in Bikaner expecting a relatively laidback and sleepy town. But Bikaner, it turns out, is actually Rajasthan’s fourth-largest city.
Be that as it may, Bikaner still gets only a fraction of the tourists of Jaipur, Jodhpur, Udaipur, or Jaisalmer. And that means you can explore Junagarh Fort and the other top things to do in Bikaner away from the crowds and touts.
Bikaner was founded in 1488 by Rao Bika of the Rathore Dynasty in 1488. Notably, Bika was the son of Jodhpur’s founder, Rao Jodha, but he desired to found a brand new kingdom of his own. And it seems to have been a wise move, as Bikaner’s legacy has survived for centuries.
Following this guide to Bikaner, be sure to check the end of the article for more information on reaching Bikaner and where to stay.
Junagarh Fort
If you could only visit one site in Bikaner, it would have to be Junagarh Fort. Notably, unlike most other major forts of Rajasthan, this one was not built atop a hill.
But despite that, it was amazingly never conquered, largely thanks to its 986 m sandstone wall and 37 bastions.
At the time of writing, entry for foreign tourists costs a total of Rs 600 (Rs 400 for the fort and Rs 200 for the additional museum).
The site officially opens at 10:00, and while some locals may tell you that a guided tour is essential, you can indeed explore the fort independently.
Note that the entrance is all the way on the east side of the fort which can be tricky to locate for those coming from another direction.
Bikaner would reach its zenith under Rai Singh (r. 1571-1611), who allowed his kingdom to become a vassal of the Mughals during the reign of Emperor Akbar.
Rai Singh would even aid the Mughals in their attacks on the Mewar Kingdom, then based at Chittorgarh. And in return, Bikaner would receive great financial aid which Rai Singh would use to build this incredible fort.
The fort is home to a plethora of palaces that were developed and added to by subsequent rulers. But first, you’ll encounter a sizeable museum containing artifacts from the former royal family. It even includes a small plane!
The visiting route will then take you through an elegant courtyard, followed by a large hall entirely adorned in monochrome floral and animal motifs. It’s not clear what the hall is called, but it’s easily one of the most impressive sections of the site.
At one end, you’ll find an old sandalwood throne once used by Rathore rulers.
Next, you’ll find yourself in a white room containing various old guns, which then leads to an elegant courtyard. If you’ve arrived right at opening time, you should be able to hurry past the tour groups to get some unobstructed photographs.
One of the most stunning parts of the palace is the Phool Mahal, which has been completely painted in vegetal motifs. Unless they were recently restored, they don’t seem to have lost any of their original color. Notably, this is the fort’s oldest palace, constructed by Raja Rai Singh (r. 1571-1668).
Exploring the area, I encountered even more small courtyards and additional arched rooms in which every single centimeter was covered in vivid artwork. I think it would be safe to say that Junagarh Fort could rival many of the top palaces in Europe.
One could probably spend hours taking in all the patterns and colors. It was only the sound of oncoming tour groups that made me want to keep moving.
You’ll eventually find yourself in a wide open courtyard known as the Karan Mahal, a Public Audience Hall built by Karan Singh around 1680. The hall and its central pavilion can be overlooked by various other palaces in the fort.
The Karan Mahal provides access to yet another stunning area known as the Anup Mahal, which is entirely covered in lacquer patterns. Built as a Hall of Private Audience by Maharaja Anup Singh in 1690, it was later added to in the late 18th century.
Yet another incredible room is the Badal Mahal, or Cloud Palace, which is mostly adorned in blue. It’s smaller than the others but no less gorgeous.
Finished with the main part of the fort, visitors can also access the Prachina Museum, which as mentioned above, costs Rs 200 to enter (it’s included in the Rs 600 combo ticket). While not nearly as essential as the main fort for those short on time, it’s still worth a visit.
On display, you’ll find things like historical information along with a collection of local crafts, textiles, and more.
Leaving the fort, finding myself back in the busy streets of Bikaner came as a bit of a shock. Just moments prior, I was walking through some of the most refined and exquisite artwork in the region, and then the next thing I knew, I was walking past cows feasting on piles of rubbish.
While the dichotomy between India’s rich and poor is a popular topic amongst journalists and YouTubers, less talked about is the sometimes extreme contrast between beauty and filth that you’ll observe within a single area.
Ganesha Coffee Lounge
On the west side of the fort is a swanky hotel known as Hotel Bhairon Vilas, just next to which is one of Bikaner’s most interesting modern attractions.
Known as the Ganesha Coffee Lounge, the entire shop is filled with various antiques – both Indian and Western – and classy furniture. I stopped by a couple of times during my visit, and one of the staff members also showed me the neighboring bar and gift shop which were just as tastefully decorated.
In addition to being one of Bikaner’s hippest establishments, it’s also one of the few places in the city where you can find real coffee.
Rampuriya Street
To the west of the fort is the area regarded as Bikaner’s Old Town which you can reach with a tuk tuk ride (Rs 100-200) or on foot in about 30 minutes.
The area is home to numerous old houses of wealthy merchants which collectively make up Rampuriya Street. Confusingly, the area is also often simply referred to as ‘Rampuriya Haveli,’ which is indeed one of the structures around here, though it’s not clear which is which.
In any case, none of the old residences seem to be accessible, so you’ll just be walking through the alleys and admiring them from the outside. Many of the structures date from the 17th century and are largely decorated in beautiful carved motifs.
After exploring the area for a bit, it’s just another fifteen minutes on foot southwest to Bhandasar Jain Temple – arguably Bikaner’s very finest temple.
Bhandasar Jain Temple
Commissioned in 1468 and completed in 1514, the Bhandasar Jain Temple is the oldest temple in Bikaner. As with other cities of Rajasthan, many of the local merchants were Jains, and Bhandasar Temple was commissioned by a merchant named Bhandasa Oswal.
There’s no fee to enter, but they do encourage donations. Unlike some other Jain temples in India, photography is allowed inside.
The temple is dedicated to Sumati Nathji, the 5th Jain Tirthankara. But it also features colorful murals depicting the lives of some of the other Tirthankaras of Jainism, of which there are 24 in total.
Simply put, a Tirthankara is a spiritual teacher in Jainism who has shown others the path to spiritual liberation.
The temple is also known for its gold leaf patterns and its pillars with floral arabesques, while many of the pillars also feature carved wooden figures.
There’s as much detail to admire here as in many of the more elaborate rooms of Junagarh Fort, but you’ll only encounter a fraction of the crowds.
Next door, meanwhile, is the Hindu Laxminathji Temple, but it didn’t seem accessible at the time of my visit. In any case, Bhandasar Jain Temple on its own is well worth the trip out to this part of town.
Speaking of popular temples, Bikaner is the base from which to reach the infamous Karni Mata Temple (also known as the ‘Rat Temple’), but we’ll be saving that for another guide.
Additional Info
Bikaner can be directly accessed by rail from cities like Jaipur, Jaisalmer, Delhi and Agra.
If you’re coming from Jaisalmer like I was, you’ll see that you can only buy advanced tickets for a night train. Confusingly, however, there’s an extra train that doesn’t appear on the Indian Railways (IRCTC) website or other booking apps.
The train is called Lalgarh Express and departs every day at 11:00. As the name suggests, it terminates at Lalgarh Junction, which is situated in northern Bikaner but still an easy tuk tuk ride to the center.
Boarding the train in Jaisalmer, my hotel owner’s son kindly accompanied me to the station and insisted on helping me buy a ticket. It was very kind of him, but he ended up purchasing a general class ticket, despite me explicitly telling him that I wanted 2AC! What followed us what could best be described as ‘the train ride from hell,’ but I did at least end up making it to Bikaner in one piece.
If you’re doing a long trip through India, it’s best to create an account on the official Indian Railways (IRCTC) website. But that’s much easier said than done!
If you’re just doing a shorter trip, it’s best to book train tickets through 12GoAsia. You’ll pay a significantly higher fee, but it’s a much smoother experience.
The above link is an affiliate link, but I did use 12GoAsia a few times before I got my IRCTC account set up, and I had no issues.
Aurangabad also has its own airport, with direct flights from Mumbai and Delhi.
Despite its large size, relatively few foreign visitors visit Bikaner, and you won’t have the abundance of hotel options that you’ll find in other parts of Rajasthan.
Traveling on a budget, I stayed at Jamna Vilas Guest House, which was located about 15-20 minutes on foot from the entrance to Junagarh Fort. It was also possible to walk from the hotel to Rampuria Haveli, not to mention the bus stop for the Karni Mata Temple.
In addition to the convenient location, the staff were very friendly and helpful. Unfortunately, however, the room was not exactly clean, while I could clearly hear sounds from the guests on the other floors due to a large ventilation shaft.
Those with a bit more money to splurge should consider the centrally-located Cavalry Villa Bikaner, or Hotel Bhairon Vilas located next to the Ganesha Coffee Lounge.
For those who prefer to get around via private transport while benefiting from the expertise of a local guide, consider taking a private tour. This tour, for example, will take you to some of the sites mentioned above along with Gajner Lake and the National Research Center.