Last Updated on: 16th October 2024, 07:21 pm
If there was one holiday or event most representative of Mexican culture, it would have to be Day of the Dead. And nowhere else in Mexico celebrates the holiday quite like Oaxaca. In the following guide, we’ll be covering everything you need to know about experiencing Oaxaca Day of the Dead, from its history and customs to the top neighborhoods to visit.
And at the very end of the article, you can find more practical planning tips, such as how to schedule your time and essential things you need to know when booking transport and accommodation.
Locally, the holiday is known as Día de los Muertos, though many Mexicans just call it Día de Muertos. For the sake of simplicity, we’ll just be referring to it as Day of the Dead from here on.
What is Day of the Dead?
Officially, Day of the Dead is celebrated on November 1st (All Saints Day) and 2nd (All Soul’s Day). But most festivities begin on October 31st, or All Saint’s Eve, which is also the time to honor departed children. And when it comes to the Day of the Dead celebrations in Oaxaca, the festivities can go on for several days nonstop.
The purpose of Day of the Dead is to welcome the spirits of the departed, as it’s believed that this is the time of the year when they return to earth to visit their loved ones. As we’ll go over below, numerous customs have developed to ensure that the departed safely find their way to their families.
The true origins of Day of the Dead are a little murky. While, like many Mexican holidays and festivals, the celebrations demonstrate a clear mix of pre-Hispanic and European traditions, not everyone seems to agree on which came first.
Throughout modern Mexico, of course, there are plenty of indigenous customs and festivals that had to become ‘Christianized’ in order to survive during the colonial period. But some scholars believe that Day of the Dead, in contrast, is an example of the opposite.
Many of the core traditions of Day of the Dead are European in origin and be traced back to All Saints’ Day and All Souls’ Day rites from the Middle Ages. But during the 19th and 20th centuries, numerous leftist Mexican administrations strived to diminish both the political power and cultural influence of the Church. As a result, celebrations like Day of the Dead were given makeovers to appear more indigenous.
With that being said, most Mesoamerican cultures did indeed worship and leave offerings for their ancestors. And Mitla, Oaxaca, for example, was long believed to be the abode of the Lord of the Underworld. Furthermore, considering how many Catholic traditions have their roots in paganism to begin with, Day of the Dead is an interesting case of things coming full circle.
Now in modern Mexico, lots of symbolism and imagery related to Day of the Dead (particularly Catrinas and calacas) have become synonymous with Mexican art and culture as a whole. It’s no surprise, then, that foreigners wishing to experience an authentic Mexican holiday flock to the country around November 1st each year.
While some Day of the Dead traditions are universal throughout Mexico, particular customs and the overall length of the festivities can vary from city to city. While by no means the largest Mexican city, many consider Oaxaca – a creative hub known for its festivals – to be the very best place to experience the holiday.
The Symbols & Customs of Day of the Dead
Catrinas
One of the most ubiquitous Day of the Dead symbols is the Calavera Catrina. Calavera means ‘skull,’ while Catrina means ‘dapper’ or ‘well-dressed.’ La Calavera Catrina is a specific character created by lithographer José Guadalupe Posada (1852-1913), and today the female skeleton is often just referred to as ‘La Catrina.’
Posada originally started depicting the Mexican bourgeoisie as well-dressed skeletons as a means of political satire. Diego Rivera would further popularize La Catrina in his famous 1947 painting ‘Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Park,’ in which she stands in the midst of prominent Mexican historical and cultural figures.
Throughout Mexico and especially during Day of the Dead, you’ll also encounter many calacas, which is just a general term for skeleton. While Posada is generally credited with starting this artistic phenomenon of skulls and skeletons, we can’t overlook the fact that skeletons have long played a role in pre-Hispanic art.
Various Mesoamerican ‘Lords of the Underworld,’ for example, have long been depicted in skeleton form. Furthermore, as mentioned above, much of Day of the Dead was derived from European Catholic traditions. And within certain Catholic art styles like Memento Mori, skeletal imagery has been used to remind people of their inevitable fate.
Throughout the Day of the Dead festivities, you’ll see skull and skeleton decorations just about everywhere. And in Oaxaca, many new Day of the Dead-themed mural paintings are added each autumn and then left up permanently.
Around this time, you’ll also commonly find skulls made entirely out of sugar. Another common tradition in modern times, meanwhile, is for people (mainly women) to get their face painted as a Catrina.
Ofrendas
As the main concept of Day of the Dead is departed souls returning to visit their loved ones, families build special altars to encourage such visits. Known as ofrendas, they typically feature items that the deceased was fond of – either personal items or favorite foods and drink.
While many of these are private altars within family homes, you will indeed see plenty of public ofrendas while walking around town for Oaxaca Day of the Dead.
As you’ll quickly notice, the ofrendas don’t have to follow a single uniform style. And in such a creative city like Oaxaca, some elaborate shrines seem to double as public art installations.
Despite their wide variety, one common item you’ll see at nearly all ofrendas is the marigold, or cempasúchil. These flowers are believed to help encourage souls to make a visit to the altar, and they’ve since become a symbol of the holiday.
Much like at ancestral shrines throughout the world, people place various foods at the altars in hopes that the spirit will consume their ‘essence.’
One food unique to this time of year is pan de muerto (bread of the dead). Often covered in sugar, they’re sometimes topped with crossbones imagery as well. You’ll often find them sold at markets during the festivities, with the tradition supposedly originating in Southern Europe.
Tapetes de Arena
While tapetes de arena, or sand tapestries, aren’t prevalent in every region of Mexico during Day of the Dead, they’re a pretty big deal in Oaxaca.
Though the tradition originated in Spain, here the tapestries take on distinctly Mexican styles and themes. Some are more flat and simple, but you’ll occasionally encounter massive three-dimensional works as well.
As mentioned, Oaxaca is renowned as one of the most creative and artistic cities in Mexico. As such, a lot of emphasis is placed on originality, with some neighborhoods even holding competitions.
Tapetes de arena aren’t quite as common as the ofrendas and other types of decoration, but you can typically find them in more local neighborhoods.
Comparsas
Comparsas are a type of parade featuring musicians, performers, people in costume and large paper-mache floats. You’re just as likely to find them in the city center as you will down random side streets in outlying neighborhoods.
In Oaxaca, it’s actually not uncommon to encounter celebratory comparsas with brass bands at any time of the year. But the ones for Oaxaca Day of the Dead can be even bigger and more colorful than usual.
Aside from various neighborhoods around the center, the village of San Agustín Etla in particular is known for its major comparsa on November 1st.
Notably, many other cities in Mexico lack any kind of parade for Day of the Dead. No such parade in Mexico City, for example, existed until a fictional one was depicted in a James Bond film. Afterward, authorities started planning real parades to meet visitors’ expectations!
Cemetery Visits
Cemetery visits are arguably the heart and soul of the entire holiday. Walking around town, it’s easy to get distracted by the crowds, costumes and various events that are taking place throughout the week. But it’s at the cemeteries that you’ll witness the true meaning of the Day of the Dead.
It’s here that families come to gather around the grave or graves of their departed loved ones. They commonly tell stories about the deceased with the idea of focusing on the good times. But as one might expect, things can indeed get emotional.
Sometimes a family will stay up late into the night to keep the grave of their relative company – often with drinking and music. And you’ll also see offerings left at the graves themselves, which are similar to those placed at the ofrendas.
Within the city center, the top cemeteries to visit would be the Panteón General and Panteón Barrio Xochimilco. Outlying villages like Xoxocotlán, San Felipe and Atzompa are also known for their cemeteries.
Generally speaking, it’s acceptable for outsiders to show up and observe what’s going on from a respectful distance. You should avoid showing up in face paint, however.
Offshoot Events
Even during normal times, Oaxaca is host to a wide variety of music and performance art events – both traditional and modern. As expected, event organizers take advantage of Day of the Dead when the number of visitors to the city is at its peak.
During the holiday, there are more events going on than ever, which can range from intimate small concerts to dance performances to all-night techno/house parties. The best place to find out about them is the Facebook page Qué Pasa Oaxaca.
Unfortunately, some of the organizers think it’s acceptable to charge entry fees for their events that are even higher than what you’d pay in the US. On the other hand, depending on what you’re looking for, you may also find plenty of free events as well.
Where to Experience Oaxaca Day of the Dead
What follows is a summary of where to experience Oaxaca Day of the Dead within the city center. These are pretty much the same neighborhoods that are must-visits during ordinary times. Be sure to check out our Oaxaca city guide and Oaxaca street art guide to learn more about them.
The festivities aren’t restricted to the capital, however. Outlying towns and villages such as Xoxocotlán, San Felipe, Atzompa and San Agustín Etla are also popular places to visit during the holiday.
It can be quite the hassle (and potentially expense) to get to these villages and back, however, especially considering how a lot of the events last well into the early morning. Therefore, booking a tour would be a wise idea (more below).
Centro / Santo Domingo
As one might expect, the Centro/Santo Domingo area is where much of the crowds gather for Oaxaca Day of the Dead. It’s here that you’ll find the largest public ofrendas in addition to the most extravagant decorations placed on the facades of historical buildings.
The largest and most crowded comparsas can be found here as well. And this is also the place where many visitors come to get their faces painted.
I visited Centro several times throughout the week and always encountered large crowds and decorations. But aside from one large parade, I rarely saw events taking place – at least during daylight hours.
It seems like many of the events happen well after dark, though I preferred checking out the cemeteries in other neighborhoods at night.
Xochimilco
Xochimilco is where I based myself for Oaxaca Day of the Dead (well, technically the La Cascada district a bit further north). But regardless of where you’re based, it’s well worth checking out.
And if it’s your very first time in Oaxaca, you’ll want to explore during the daytime as well as after dark.
As Xochimilco is one of the top areas in Oaxaca for street art, it’s not surprising to find a lot of decorations during Day of the Dead as well. In contrast to the massive decorations around Centro, here they’re smaller yet more intimate in nature.
Another major reason to visit Xochimilco is for its cemetery, simply referred to as Xochimilco Cemetery.
Compared with Panteón General, the largest in the city (more below), this one is considerably smaller, but visiting both makes for an interesting contrast.
Around Xochimilco, you’ll be able to find event schedules posted by the local community. At the time of my visit, there was something going on each day/evening from October 29-November 2.
It’s best to examine the schedule carefully, however, as some of the events are more lowkey community gatherings or events intended for children that wouldn’t appeal to the average tourist.
Confusingly, I came across a few different itineraries which contradicted one another. I once came out for a comparsa listed on one of them that was supposed to begin at 20:00, but by 20:20, there were still zero signs of a parade or gathering.
Jalatlalco
As is the case with Xochimilco, Jalatlalco is another one of Oaxaca’s most colorful and lively neighborhoods, so it’s unsurprisingly buzzing with activity for Day of the Dead.
But as with Centro, I didn’t end up encountering anything actually going on here. Still, there were some amazing ofrendas on display, while this is one of the best places to see Day of the Dead-themed street murals.
Panteón General
As mentioned, Panteón General is Oaxaca’s largest cemetery. It’s an absolute must-visit during Day of the Dead and is within reasonable walking distance from Jalatlalco.
The best day to visit this cemetery is on November 2nd, which is when you’ll find the most people gathered here.
I would recommend arriving before sundown to see what it looks like in daylight. Then, linger on well past dark to observe various families gathering around the graves of their loved ones.
As mentioned, it’s generally fine for tourists to wander around here, and you will indeed see loads of them. But as a total outsider, it can be a bit awkward, as you can’t directly participate, nor do you want to interrupt any of the heartfelt ceremonies you see around you.
But if you can get over that, a walk through a major cemetery during Day of the Dead may end up being your most memorable experience of the whole week. At least it was for me.
Planning Your Time
While the main days for Day of the Dead are October 31st- November 2nd, you can expect the festivities to spread out over the course of several days in Oaxaca. Furthermore, as we’ll cover below, you’ll have to arrive in Oaxaca well in advance if you want to guarantee being able to find transport to the city.
But what to do each day and night? First of all, I’d recommend checking the Qué Pasa Oaxaca page both before and throughout the festivities and deciding which events you’d like to attend. You should also be able to find the schedules of individual neighborhoods posted online if you can’t find them in person.
Remember, however, that while the festivities last for quite some time, the main days to visit the cemeteries are still November 1st and 2nd.
A lot of how you spend your time will also depend on whether or not you’ve ever been to Oaxaca before. Personally, I wouldn’t recommend seeing the city for the very first time during Day of the Dead, as the crowds take away much of the city’s charm.
Furthermore, a lot of the outlying sites like Monte Albán, Mitla and Hierve el Agua are going to be packed. But if this will be your only chance to visit Oaxaca, then those sites should definitely not be missed.
Aside from events and sightseeing, the best way to experience the holiday is to simply walk around the different neighborhoods, both in the day and night. How to go about this largely depends on where you’re staying, but Oaxaca is small enough that you walk between Centro, Xochimilco and Jalatlalco fairly easily.
You should also consider in advance if you want to make any trips to outlying villages to experience the festivities there. While I’d hoped to do this, it seemed like a huge hassle once I looked further into it, and I didn’t end up leaving the center.
Additional Info
If you’re not Mexican, much of the customs and traditions of Day of the Dead can only be experienced as an outside observer. That’s why you might want to consider booking a tour during to get more of an insider’s perspective.
As is the case with transport and accommodation, you’ll want to book these tours well in advance, as they can sell out quickly.
As mentioned above, the cemetery in the town of Xoxocotlan is one of the most popular in the region. But arranging a visit can be difficult. That’s why you might want to consider a tour like this one.
This tour, meanwhile, focuses on the locations in the city center featured above, with the added benefit of having a local to accompany you. This is another great option, and it also includes participating in the large comparsa in Etla.
Oaxaca is the capital of the state of the same name, and the city (officially known as Oaxaca de Juárez) is easily one of Mexico’s most popular tourism destinations.
With that being said, the city is relatively isolated geographically. While numerous bus routes exist, it will likely be a long journey no matter which direction you’re coming from.
And if you’re visiting for Day of the Dead, planning well in advance is imperative. In contrast to normal times, when you’ll be fine buying a long-distance bus ticket the day before, you’ll want to arrive in Oaxaca several days, if not a week, before the Day of the Dead festivities start.
I’ve come across multiple horror stories online of people planning everything out meticulously, only to find out that all the bus routes and flights were sold out!
Assuming you’re coming well in advance, what follows is the basic info regarding transport to Oaxaca city:
ADO and its associated companies run direct buses from Mexico City (both TAPO and Norte stations) with the journey lasting 6-7 hours. Direct buses from Puebla’s CAPU, meanwhile, take about 5 hours.
For those coming from the east, you can catch a direct OCC bus from San Cristóbal de las Casas. The ride lasts around 10 hours and most of the routes are night buses. You can also ride directly from Comitán, Chiapas, which takes 12-13 hours.
For those coming from Oaxaca’s Pacific coast, the journey is not a quick or easy one either. Coach buses from Huatulco take no less than 9 hours, while buses from Puerto Escondido (via Huatulco) take more than 11! (Update: As of 2024, the new La Autopista Barranca Larga-Ventanilla has opened up, drastically reducing travel time.)
If you’re not into long bus rides, you can simply fly. The Xoxocotlán International Airport has direct flights from cities throughout the country, along with a few from the US (Houston, Dallas and LA).
Oaxaca is not a very large city to begin with. And considering how wildly popular the Oaxaca Day of the Dead festivities are these days, you’ll need to arrange accommodation well in advance.
I have the luxury of being a full-time traveler who prefers extended stays whenever possible. So while the celebrations only last several days, I was able to save money by booking a full month at an Airbnb, taking advantage of the monthly discount that many hosts offer.
I also booked roughly three months in advance. Even so, given my budget, I didn’t get my first choice of neighborhoods. I’ve heard some people online even recommend booking as many as six months in advance.
Generally speaking, either during Day of the Dead or during normal times, the more central you are, the better. Oaxaca is a walkable city and you can easily reach all the main neighborhoods on foot. If you book well enough in advance, the main neighborhoods to look out for are Centro, Santo Domingo, Xochimilco, Jalatlalco and Reforma.
Those who wait too long to make a booking sometimes have to settle for a small town on Oaxaca’s outskirts. But as mentioned above, many of these towns have a lot going on during Day of the Dead as well.
Given the hassle, planning and expense involved to experience Day of the Dead in Oaxaca, you may be wondering if it’s all worth it. The experience is frequently hyped up online, with more and more people adding it to their bucket lists. But can it really live up to the hype?
Personally, I think Day of the Dead in Oaxaca has become too popular for its own good. On the one hand, given its massive popularity, tourists flock to the city with big expectations. But the more of a spectacle the whole thing becomes, the easier it is to lose sight of the true essence of the holiday.
Furthermore, considering how Oaxaca is one of Mexico’s most beautiful and charming cities, the huge crowds during the Day of the Dead hamper the experience of the city itself.
Looking back, I’m glad I finally got to experience the event, but I was also glad I’d already experienced Oaxaca and its surroundings during quieter times.
If I had to do it again, I wouldn’t make special plans to experience Day of the Dead in Oaxaca or anywhere else. Rather, I would just enjoy a more lowkey version of the event in whatever Mexican city I happened to be in at the time.
But that’s just me, and you’ll indeed find plenty of people who love Oaxaca Day of the Dead so much that they make repeated visits year after year.
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