Last Updated on: 28th November 2025, 08:22 am
There’s nowhere else in India quite like Mandu. Having been to over a dozen Indian states, I can safely say that Mandu is my favorite town in the country. Largely developed from the 14th to16th centuries, there’s so much to see in the area that we’ve had to divide this Mandu guide into two parts.
Most online sources will tell you that Mandu consists of 4-5 main groups of landmarks. While that may be true, only three sites are ticketed (all cost Rs 300 at the time of writing), while there are plenty of notable free landmarks that don’t belong to any particular group. As such, we’ve decided to dedicate Part 1 to Mandu’s Paid Attractions and Part 2 to its Free Attractions.
While one could technically visit Mandu as a day trip from Indore and see a few of the key sites before heading back, that would be missing the point. Mandu is not only about its landmarks, but its beautiful and quiet surroundings – not to mention its hospitable locals. You’ll ideally want to spend three to four days in town.
Mandu’s remote location away from the Indian rail network is arguably one of its best assets, as it’s one of the few places left in India where you can have impressive historical attractions all to yourself.
For information on reaching Mandu from Indore or Maheshwar along with where to stay in town, be sure to check the end of the article.
Confusingly, Mandu is also known as Mandav. And that’s the name you’ll see on Google Maps. While I did hear some locals use the name Mandav, most people generally seem to call the town Mandu, so that’s the name we’ll be sticking with throughout this guide.
Getting Around Mandu
While numerous sites should be walkable from your hotel, the best way to explore Mandu is by bicycle. You can rent a bicycle from a small family-run shop situated right next to the Chalain Food Hub on Mandu Road (a bit north of Hotel Shivani Resort).
At the time of my visit, rentals cost just Rs 150 per day. Just be sure to get there early, as you may run into a situation where all the bikes have already been rented out.
In my case, I was traveling in winter and the mornings were quite cold. Each morning, I’d show up to the rental shop to claim my bike and then have some coffee and breakfast next door. Once the weather got a bit warmer, I’d then set off on my adventure for the day.
While I’d never want to ride a bicycle in a typical Indian city, as mentioned above, Mandu is a small town surrounded by countryside and the area sees little traffic. Furthermore, the drivers you do come across tend to be a lot less aggressive than elsewhere.
Mandu Guide (Pt. 1) Contents
This map includes both paid and free attractions around town
Mandu: A Brief History
Situated in the central Indian Malwa region in current-day Madhya Pradesh, Mandu was originally a Hindu settlement.
The earliest known reference to it dates back to the 6th century AD, and it was later controlled by the mighty Paramara Dynasty. The Paramaras would even move their capital here, as Mandu’s hilltop position made for easier defence.
While not covered in this guide, some of the area’s early Hindu remains can be found in an area known as Budi Mandu to the west of town.
In the early 14th century, Mandu would be captured by the Sultan of Delhi, Alauddin Khalji. And an Afghan named Dilawar Khan was appointed as Malwa governor. And following the decline of the Delhi Sultanate, Dilawar Khan would declare himself as the Sultan of the new Malwa Sultanate.
His son Hoshang Shah would then take over following his death in 1406. Khan’s capital had been at nearby Dhar, but his son would shift the capital to Mandu. Though Hoshang Shah’s own son would take over next, the throne would be usurped by Mahmud Khalji, founder of the new Khalji dynasty of Malwa which lasted from 1436-1531.
In 1526, Mandu would be taken over by Bahadur Shah of Gujarat, who was in turn defeated by Mughal emperor Humayun in 1534.
Then in 1555, a sultan named Bayazid Baz Bahadur Khan took control, but today he’s best known for his obsession with his beautiful Hindu queen Rupmati (more below). After a long and complex series of events, Humayun’s successor, Akbar, eventually managed to defeat Baz Bahadur, with Mandu once again falling into Mughal hands in 1562.
Finally, in 1732, the arch-nemesis of the Mughal Empire, the Maratha Empire, which was led by Peshwa Baji Rao I, conquered the region. For the first time since the 14th century, Mandu fell back into Hindu hands. Nevertheless, the Malwa capital was shifted back to Dhar, and Mandu would gradually fall from prominence.
Today, Mandu is just a small town of 10,000 inhabitants, but reminders of its glorious past can be found all throughout the region.
The Royal Enclave Group
As with all three ticketed sites featured in Part 1 of this guide, the Royal Enclave Group costs Rs 300 at the time of writing. Each site is open daily from 9:00 until sunset. As we’ll cover below, visitors can also catch a sound and light show at the Royal Enclave Group that begins around 8:00 (in English).
Situated in the north part of Mandu, this group is accessible on foot from the town center.
The main structure in the Royal Enclave group is the Jahaz Mahal, built in the late 15th century. It’s said to resemble a ship, hence its name of ‘Ship Palace.’
It was established by Ghiyas-ud-din, the second ruler of the Khalji Dynasty who ruled from 1469-1500. And its purpose was to house his enormous harem.
Visitors are free to climb up to the rooftop, which is home to numerous pavilions topped with domed roofs.
It also presents some excellent views of the surrounding gardens which are maintained to appear how they probably did in medieval times. The buildings, in contrast, have largely shed their colorful tiles.
Looking over the opposite side, you’ll see the Munja Lake which is surrounded by numerous additional structures we’ll be covering shortly. There’s so much to see at the Royal Enclave Group alone that a visit here could easily take two to three hours!
At the edge of the rooftop, you’ll find a terrace pool that was once fed by a water channel. The ground floor, meanwhile, is also home to a bathing pool.
Heading back down and continuing further north, you’ll find the other main building of the group, Hindola Mahal, which means ‘Swing Palace’ due to its sloping walls.
Built by Ghiyas-ud-din, it served as a royal assembly hall.
Be sure to take a stroll through its interior, admiring its multiple ogee arches. Archaeologists believe that the Hindola Mahal originally comprised of just this hall, though an additional section was added later, turning it into a T-shaped building.
Further north of the Hindola Mahal are a series of additional structures surrounding spacious courtyards. While many of these buildings are void of decoration, you can step us aside to see impressive vaulted arches.
And that brings us to an important difference between Mandu and other historical sites around India. Visiting Mandu is less about appreciating the details and intricacies of the architecture, and more about free exploration.
As mentioned, the Royal Enclave Group alone is huge, but it’s only a fraction of all there is to see around Mandu.
That’s not to say that all of Mandu’s structures are completely featureless, however. At the far northern end of the site, one of the most interesting buildings of the group is Dilawar Khan’s Mosque.
As the name suggests, it was built by Dilawar Khan, the first Sultan of the Malwa Sultanate. Constructed in 1405, it’s regarded as the earliest example of Indo-Islamic architecture at Mandu.
While the large open courtyard is reminiscent of a typical mosque, the pillars of the colonnades appear to have been taken straight out of a Hindu temple.
Heading back southwest, you’ll find a small hammam built in the Turkish style. As one might guess, it was exclusively reserved for members of the royal family.
As with many hammams of the era, holes were cut in the upper dome to let in natural light while also resembling a starry night sky.
A bit further south is Champa Baoli, one of the Royal Enclave Group’s most unique structures. This large stepwell was built in the 15th century. Not only did it store water, but a series of underground rooms also served as a retreat on hot summer days.
Visitors are free to explore the underground complex. And if you’re visiting in a warmer month, you’ll probably end up staying for a while to hide from the sun yourself.
At the far west of the Royal Enclave Group is the Jal Mahal, a palace built at the edge of Munja Lake. While it’s a bit of a walk to get there, it offers excellent views of Jahaz Mahal from a distance.
Back by the main entrance is a structure called Taveli Mahal which now houses a small archaeological museum. Though the ground floor was once a stable, it’s now home to an interesting collection of artifacts found in the area, most of them Hindu.
The Sound & Light Show
Many attractions in India offer sound and light shows after dark. And though I normally have no interest in such spectacles, a couple of locals near my hotel that I befriended insisted that it was well worth seeing and that we go together.
The show costs an additional Rs 300 for foreigners. For whatever reason, they don’t let you come in via the daytime entrance and can only enter from the north. Expect to have to hire a tuk tuk.
We happened to be the only visitors there, which wasn’t entirely surprising seeing how few tourists make it to Mandu in general.
The show is projected on the Hindola Mahal, and it was especially impressive how the artists took the building’s shape into account when working out their projection mappings.
The show largely covers Mandu’s history and popular legends, and I was pleasantly surprised with both the quality of the visuals and audio.
I’d been imagining something like the outdated Sound & Light Show at Giza, but this one was remarkably more artistic and modern.
It was also cool to see a lit-up Jahaz Mahal after the performance was over (thankfully, they let us exit via the normal entrance).
The Tomb of Hoshang Shah
Right in the heart of modern Mandu is the Tomb of Hoshang Shah. Part of Mandu’s Village Group, only the Tomb of Hoshang Shah requires an entry ticket for some reason.
The other landmarks of the group – the Victory Tower and the Ashrafi Mahal Madrasa – are accessible for free, and therefore will be covered in Part 2 of this complete Mandu guide.
Before reaching the tomb itself, visitors walk through an elaborate gate to enter the Jama Masjid. Completed in 1454, it features three large domes and 54 smaller ones situated above colonnades.
The mosque is no longer active and today merely serves as a historical monument.
Notably, in contrast to many other Indian towns with an abundance of historical Islamic architecture, modern-day Mandu doesn’t seem to have a sizable Muslim population.
The only active religious institutions in town are Hindu temples, while the large local tribal population still carry out their animistic rituals.
Eventually, you’ll come across a small doorway pointing you in the direction of the tomb. Descending a staircase, you’ll then enter the tomb complex via a domed gazebo.
As mentioned above, Hoshang Shah was the son of Dilawar Khan and the second ruler of the Malwa Sultanate. Begun by Hoshang Shah himself, it was later completed by Mahmud Khalji in 1440.
The mausoleum is topped with a large dome surrounded by four cupolas. Notably, this was India’s very first marble tomb.
If you’re thinking it bears some resemblance to the Taj Mahal, you’re not far off. The Tomb of Hoshang Shah predates the Taj Mahal by about two centuries, but one of its architects did indeed visit this shrine for inspiration!
In any case, both are examples of Persian-inspired (via Afghanistan) Indo-Islamic architecture.
Inside, you’ll find the main sarcophagus of Hoshang Shah along with three others belonging to members of his family. They were all carved in tiered pyramidal shapes.
Like the Mosque of Dilawar Khan (Hoshang Shah’s father) featured above, the colonnade here contains columns resembling a typical Hindu temple. Despite being of Afghan heritage, the dynasty was clearly influenced by what they encountered in India.
The Rupmati Pavilion
The Rupmati Pavilion is the southernmost attraction in Mandu – paid or otherwise. For this one you definitely need some kind of transport. From central Mandu, expect it to take you around 30 minutes by bicycle, though there are plenty of places to stop along the way.
First, you’ll reach the Rewa Kund, after which this ‘Rewa Kund Group’ of monuments was named.
According to legend, it was built by Baz Bahadur at the insistence of his queen Rupmati (also spelled Roopmati). She’d had a dream in which the goddess of her beloved Narmada River told her to build a water tank.
And upon its completion, it miraculously filled up with water from the Narmada River, allowing her to look down on the sacred water each day.
Today, many pilgrims in India perform a circumambulation of the entire Narmada, a river said to have originated from the sweat of Shiva.
While the Narmada doesn’t flow directly through Mandu, pilgrims still come here to bathe in the Rewa Kund due to Rupmati’s legend.
Past the ticket gate, you’ll enter Baz Bahadur Palace. Originally built in 1508 by a ruler named Nasrud-din, Baz Bahadur decided to make a home for himself here due to its proximity to the Rewa Kund and Rupmati Pavilion.
Other than an impressive stepwell and a garden, there’s not a whole lot to see here.
Next, it’s a 10-15 minute walk uphill to Rupmati Pavilion itself. If you’re hungry or thirsty, there are plenty of snack vendors along the way.
The impressive Rupmati Pavilion overlooks the Nimar Valley and sits at around 366 m above the surrounding plains. But what, you’re surely wondering, is the story behind it?
According to legend, Sultan Baz Bahadur (r. 1551-561) was out on a hunting expedition when he encountered a beautiful woman bathing and singing in the Narmada River. Her name was Rupmati, and the sultan, enchanted by both her voice and beauty, asked her to be his wife.
That meant she’d have to leave her home village, so she only agreed on the condition that he build her a palace from which she could see the Narmada River. (Aside from the Rewa Kund, parts of the real river can be seen under the right conditions.)
Throughout the rest of his reign, Baz Bahadur would remain more preoccupied with his Hindu queen than with ruling Malwa. And it was thus easy for Emperor Akbar to reclaim Mandu for the Mughal Empire.
But despite his obsession with Rupmati, the cowardly Baz Bahadur would flee the scene upon the arrival of Akbar’s general, Adham Khan.
And rather than succumb to being captured by the Mughals, Rupmati tragically decided to poison herself in this palace instead.
Lots of visitors (and locals) consider the Rupmati Pavilion to be their favorite landmark in Mandu. Personally, however, I felt that compared to various other structures, it’s lost much of its charm due to recent restorations.
Nevertheless, the views are some of the best you’ll find in the region.
Additional Info
Mandu is a bit complicated to reach. But after seeing how crowded other historical towns in India can get, its inaccessibility should be considered a positive.
Mandu cannot be accessed by rail, so you’ll need to either take a bus or private car (as little as Rs 2000 on Uber) from Indore, the nearest major city.
Actually, you will need to take two buses from Indore. While I’d read online about an 8:00 AM direct bus departing from the Gangwal Bus Stand, I can confirm that no such direct bus exists anymore.
Luckily, however, the transfer is not so difficult. First, you’ll want to take a bus to Dhar. These leave throughout the day from either the Gangwal Bus Stand or the Sarwate Bus Stand near Indore’s railway station.
While I can only speak about the Gangwal Bus Stand, all signs and locations written on buses were 100% in Hindi. But just tell someone you want to go to Dhar or Mandu and they should direct you to the correct bus.
Thinking a direct bus existed, I’d initially told the drivers I wanted to go to Mandu, and I paid them Rs 140 which covered my entire journey. The drive to Dhar took a little over an hour, and once there, the drivers directed me to where I could find the bus to Mandu.
They also made sure to tell the next driver that I’d already paid the entire fare. Everyone understood the process and I was not asked to pay again.
People in this part of India are very kind and helpful despite the language barrier, and I ended up making it to Mandu with no issues.
I finally arrived in Mandu about three hours after my initial departure. Though I got a taxi to my hotel, I later realized that I could’ve just walked.
If you’re visiting Mandu from Maheshwar instead of Indore, you should be able to hire a private car for around Rs 1000-15000. The ride just lasts about an hour.
Mandu is quite a small town, so as long as you’re somewhat centrally located, you should be fine. But if you’re a budget traveler, there aren’t so many options at the time of writing.
I stayed at the Mandu Homestay (which is not a homestay, but a normal budget hotel). It’s conveniently located near the Royal Enclave Group. It was a very barebones hotel but it did include a private bathroom and a water heater.
The staff were quite friendly and accommodating, though they frequently had get-togethers in the lobby and courtyard outside, so things could get rather noisy.
Mandu Homestay is also located next to a little corner store run by a very friendly and hospitable family.
Another budget option is Madai Resort which seems to have great reviews.
Mandav Hills Resort & Film City is quite a popular midrange option. But when briefly checking it out after stopping at a nearby cafe, it was packed with guests and it seemed rather chaotic and noisy.
As mentioned above, while it’s possible to see the highlights of Mandu in a single day, the town’s magic can only really be appreciated by taking things slow over the course of a few days or more.
Nevertheless, if you simply don’t have the time, visiting for a day is better than nothing. This tour departs from Indore and takes you to the three main ticketed attractions featured above.