Last Updated on: 26th June 2026, 12:33 pm
If you’re looking for a break from the madrasas and minarets of central Khiva, the neighboring Kyzylkum Desert is home to ancient fortresses that have remained largely untouched for centuries. Over 50 fortresses, collectively referred to as ‘Elliq Kala’ are scattered across the autonomous republic of Karakalpakstan. But a typical Khiva fortress tour covers three main castles: Kizil Kala, Toprak Kala, and Ayaz Kala.
As we’ll cover below, I decided to pay a little bit extra to visit two additional smaller fortresses, while you could even pay more to visit seven on the same day.
For more information on reaching Khiva and the best places to stay, be sure to check the end of the article.
Arranging a Tour
Desert castle tours are easily arranged in Khiva. You have the option of either booking in advance or just wandering around town and having drivers approach you with offers. Or, you can step inside official tour operators like Islambek Travel. Tours can also be booked on GetYourGuide for a higher price.
I’d spoken with an independent driver near my hotel who was offering the five fortress tour for $35, but I decided to go with an established company instead. I ended up choosing Islambek Travel and paid $44 for the excursion.
I would, however, end up hiring the independent driver for another day trip to Chilpik Kala and the Mizdakahn Necropolis, and things turned out fine.
The price I paid was for the car and not per person. So had I been able to find other travelers interested in going, we could’ve split the fare. Unfortunately, I had no such luck.
Note that the only stop for lunch during a Khiva fortress tour is an overpriced restaurant by Akchakul Lake. If you’re on a budget, bring your own snacks and skip the restaurant entirely.
For the tour described below, we departed at 9:00, returning to Khiva in the late afternoon.
A Brief History of the 'Elliq Kala'
The Khiva fortress tour takes you through an autonomous republic in northwest Uzbekistan known as Karakalpakstan. It overlaps with the ancient geographical region of Khorezm, though large parts of Khorezm also lie within modern-day Turkmenistan.
Karakalpakstan is named after an ethnic group called the Karakalpak people, who largely settled here in the 18th century. The ancient fortresses of Khorezm, in contrast, are far older.
The very oldest fortresses of the ‘Elliq Kala,’ or ‘Fifty Fortresses’ group date from as far back as the 7th century BC. Construction then increased when this region was occupied by the Persian Achaemenid Empire.
Then, following Alexander the Great’s conquest in the 4th century BC, Khorezm gained its independence and would remain its own state until at least the 1st century AD – and possibly until the 4th century.
The region saw incessant attacks from various tribes which helps explain why so many fortresses sprang up between the 1st and 4th centuries.
And then from the 4th-10th centuries, Khorezm was ruled by an Iranian dynasty known as the Afrighids. Though they often found themselves under the suzerainty of larger kingdoms and empires, they would continue building fortresses, especially as the region grew in importance as a major trading route.
Dumon Kala
Our first stop for the day was one of the fortresses that’s not typically included on the standard tours: Dumon Kala. But compared with the others we visited on the tour, very little information seems to exist about this fortress.
Set amidst rolling sand dunes, the setting is amongst the most atmospheric of Khorezm’s desert castles. The western section is among the best-preserved areas, while little remains of the east. But the eastern section was likely once home to a citadel.
While it’s unclear when Dumon Kala was first built, we do know that archaeological excavations first occurred here in 1940 by archaeologist Sergey Tolstov.
This was during the ‘Khorezmian Expedition’ first launched by the USSR in 1937 and led by Tolstov. Originally intending to do more of an ethnographic study, Tolstov changed his focus to archaeology when he and his team encountered so many ancient castles spread across the Kyzylkum Desert.
In fact, Tolstov would dedicate the rest of his life to studying Khorezm until his death in 1976.
All in all, despite knowing little about it and there not being a whole lot to see, I found this fortress fun to explore and was glad to have paid a bit extra to come here.
Kizil Kala
Our next stop was Kizil Kala. Access to the castle costs 20,000 som which was not included in the price of my tour.
Also commonly spelled Kyzyl Kala or Qyzyl Qala, this is one of the more elaborate fortresses in the area, though the lower portions of the walls were obviously rebuilt recently.
This reconstruction allows visitors to picture the fortress’s original form. But those who prefer their ancient sites more raw and untouched won’t be disappointed by the other fortresses on the route.
Kizil Kala was originally built sometime between the 1st and 4th centuries AD. The fortress was then abandoned but later reoccupied in the 12th century by Ala al-Din Muhammad II, the Shah of the Khwarazmian Empire (r. 1200-1220).
His territory was vast, but the empire ultimately fell to Genghis Khan and the Mongols. And there’s still some debate over whether Kizil Kala was home to Ala al-Din Muhammad II himself, or if it was merely used as a garrison for troops.
It’s most likely the latter, as Kizil Kala lies just 1 km from the larger and more elaborate Toprak Kala.
All in all, Kizil Kala is fun to explore, while the fortress offers nice views of the surrounding landscapes. Despite its remoteness, expect to encounter at least a few other visitors during your time here.
Toprak Kala
Costing 20,000 som, Toprak Kala is one of the most elaborate fortresses of the Elliq Kala. In fact, it was not just a fortress, but also a palace and a city.
And it was believed to have been the capital of ancient Khorezm in the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD, with occupation likely spanning from the 1st to 5th centuries.
It was originally established by a ruler known as Artav, whom we know about from coins discovered at the site. Interestingly, other coins found here depict none other than Kanishka the Great of the mighty Kushan Empire.
The Kushan Empire lasted from around the 1st to the 4th centuries and covered a vast territory stretching from Central Asia to eastern India.
While we know they at least controlled the Termez area in southern Uzbekistan, it’s unlikely that they controlled Khorezm – at least not outright.
Nevertheless, Khorezm was clearly influenced by the Kushans, as evidenced by the presence of robed sculptures in the style of ancient Gandhara art, which fused Hellenistic and ancient Indian designs.
You can learn more about the Kushan Empire and its art in the following articles on this site:
While not visible today, wall paintings depicting Zoroastrian deities were also discovered during archaeological excavations in 1938. This fortress more than any other conveys the sophistication and importance of ancient Khorezm.
From a visitor’s perspective, you’ll likely spend more time here than at any other stop on the Khiva fortress tour.
Though some imagination is required, there are plenty of different areas to explore, with the foundations of former dwelling areas helping reveal how densely packed Toprak Kala would’ve been in its prime.
But when it comes to the views, nothing comes close to matching the final stop on the tour, Ayaz Kala (more below).
Akchakul Lake
We next stopped for lunch at Akchakul Lake, which is essentially a tourist trap. While it’s sort of interesting to see a lake in such an arid region, it’s nothing special by Central Asian standards.
As for the on-site restaurant, it has no prices listed on its menu. And when I asked the young waiter through a translation app to tell me the cost, he left and never came back.
But checking reviews, a lot of foreign tourists complain of having been ripped off, so I just told my driver that I was ready to leave. Luckily, I’d brought some snacks, but not as much as I should have.
Kavat Kala
Along with Dumon Kala, this fortress is included in the extended five fortress version of the tour rather than the standard three fortress version. Surprisingly, this was the only landmark of the tour that featured a historical overview on display by the entrance.
Kavat Kala is said to date all the way back to the 3rd or 4th century BC, remaining in use until as late as the 13th century AD.
The fortress measures 110 m x 115 m. And though little remains of it today, the walls once stood around 11 m high and featured a total of ten defensive towers.
The area was also home to a complicated irrigation network, and this castle was surrounded by no less than 140 estates. Additional smaller fortresses nearby apparently served primarily as residences, but little trace of them remains due to the Mongol invasion.
Notably, three coins belonging to Muhammad Khorezm Shah were discovered here, with many findings now on display at the Karakalpakstan State Museum in Nukus.
Ayaz Kala
Ayaz Kala is the northernmost fortress that most travelers will visit on a day trip from Khiva. And it’s arguably the most scenic of all the fortresses mentioned here.
Nearby the fortress is the Ayaz Kala Yurt Camp, where adventurous travelers can base themselves to explore the region. It seems like the camp offers camel rides for tourists, as we passed by two smiling camels as we approached the desert castle.
Ayaz Kala is situated atop a 100 m-high hill, and today visitors have to walk across the desert and up the hill to access it. On my way over, a dog appeared out of nowhere and followed me around for much of my visit.
This fortress also dates back to the 4th century BC, with construction ongoing until the 7th century AD. Situated at the edge of the Kyzylkum Desert, Ayaz Kala protected Khorezm from raids by the Saka clan, an Eastern Iranian steppe people.
The huge fortress measures out to 182 m by 152 m. The walls were built in two layers and reach up to 10 m high, with a narrow tunnel system constructed between them in some parts.
Impressively, the fortress contained no less than 45 watchtowers.
Of the five stops I experienced on my Khiva fortress tour, Ayaz Kala was easily my favorite. Not only were there plenty of ruins to explore, but the views of the surrounding desert were fantastic.
It was incredibly windy at the top, however, which made exploring rather uncomfortable. I took refuge a couple of times in one of the narrow tunnels, but the strong winds never subsided.
From the edge of Ayaz Kala, you can look down on yet another fortress that’s simply been dubbed ‘Ayaz Kala 2.’
Standing on a 40 m high hill, it was established around the 6th century AD by the Afrighid dynasty. It largely functioned as a palace, even featuring a Zoroastrian fire temple.
It’s unclear if it’s officially accessible for visitors or not, but in any case, I probably wouldn’t have had time.
And apparently, there’s yet an even smaller third fortress in the area that I somehow missed.
As mentioned, a dog had been following me everywhere I went, but she disappeared at some point just as suddenly as she’d previously appeared.
Feeling I’d seen everything, I made the steep downhill walk through the sand and met up with my driver for our long journey back to Khiva.
Additional Info
Khiva has plenty of accommodation options, many of them budget-friendly. And you have the choice of staying within the Ichon Qala or somewhere outside of it.
I stayed within the Ichon Qala at Muhtasham Hotel located near the North Gate. This was one of my better stays in Uzbekistan, as I got a spacious private room and bathroom for an affordable price. And a hearty breakfast was included as well.
Furthermore, the staff were very pleasant and more than happy to answer any questions. Despite this being a standard hotel, I found the staff a lot more accommodating than what I experienced at ‘homestays’ in Bukhara and Samarkand.
Other popular options within the Ichon Qala include Islambek Hotel (also a popular tour operator) and Khiva Siyovush Hotel.
Budget-conscious travelers might want to stay outside (but still within walking distance) of the Ichon Qala. Doing so gives you easier access to less touristy restaurants and shops. Garden Palace Khiva and Central Park Hostel are both popular options.
Note that when visiting Uzbekistan, you’re supposed to collect little slips from each accommodation proving where you stayed and for how many nights. You may then be asked to show them when leaving the country.
A lot of hotel owners will tell you that the system is digitized now and therefore it shouldn’t matter anymore. There are also many cases where the officers won’t ask anything at all.
But the reality on the ground is that immigration officers are indeed still sometimes asking for the paper slips. And I’ve met some travelers who got themselves into trouble when they couldn’t provide them.
I entered and exited the country twice, and though I wasn’t asked anything during my first exit, I was asked during my second. Fortunately, I had them on me.
Generally speaking, Uzbekistan is one of the easier countries to travel through in Central Asia thanks to its rail network. You can easily book tickets online or via the official Uzbek Railways app. And despite being situated in a remote part of the country, Khiva is easily accessible by train.
Coming from Samarkand, the journey lasts a little over five hours if you take the fast morning train. Otherwise, slower trains take as long as ten hours. I ended up traveling to Samarkand from Khiva, with the train departing around 2 pm and not arriving until 1 am!
Add several more hours if you’ll be traveling to or from Tashkent.
From Bukhara, the journey can last either around three hours or six depending on which train you take.
For those in a rush, it’s also possible to fly from Tashkent to the city of Urgench, from which you can take a taxi or bus to Khiva (about 1 hour).