Last Updated on: 20th June 2026, 02:01 am
Khiva, along with Bukhara and Samarkand, is one of Uzbekistan’s three main tourist cities. But unlike its counterparts, you won’t have to travel far to see its historic attractions – they’re all densely packed within a walled enclave known as the Ichon Qala. While you can cover the highlights in a day or two, visiting every single attraction is overkill for the average traveler. This guide cuts through the noise and clarifies what you should focus on.
A lot of travelers love Khiva. But others dismiss it as little more than a theme park. Walk past the structures and city walls, and you’ll quickly understand why. Many of them are Soviet-era reconstructions and not original medieval buildings.
With that in mind, Khiva may not be for everyone—especially given how remote the city is. The good news is that Khiva also makes for an excellent base for day trips to considerably more raw and untouched historical sites. We’ll cover those in future guides.
For more information on reaching Khiva and the best places to stay, be sure to check the end of the article.
Khiva Guide Contents
Essential Combo Ticket Attractions
- Kuhna Ark
- Tash Khauli Palace
- Matpana Baya Madrasa (Museum of Scholars)
- Madrasa of Muhammad Rakhim Khan
- Juma Mosque
The Khiva Combo Ticket
A cumulative ticket is available for purchase at the West Gate and is valid for two consecutive days. At the time of writing, it costs 250,000 som (approximately $20 USD). This ticket grants access to around a dozen attractions within Ichon Qala.
Note that a few major attractions that were formerly included in the Combo Ticket now require separate fees. These include the Islam Khoja Minaret, the Nurullabai Palace, the Pahlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum, the Ark watchtower, and access to the city walls.
To see everything in historic Khiva, expect to pay over $50! This guide, however, mainly focuses on the Combo Ticket attractions.
Unfortunately, not all of the Combo Ticket attractions are equal. Therefore, we’ll be dividing the attractions into ‘Essential’ and ‘Nonessential.’
Since purchasing tickets for individual attractions is not an option, the distinction won’t save you any money. It will, at least, help those who are short on time, or reassure those who feel they might have missed something by not seeing it all.
In terms of navigation, the Ichon Qala isn’t very large. And considering how dense it is, you’ll actually have an easier time following the paper map on the ticket than you will using Google Maps. Just note that some landmarks may have a variety of spellings.
Khiva: A Brief History
Khiva is part of the geographical region of Khorezm, a region that’s been inhabited for thousands of years. Part of the Iranian Achaemenid Empire from the 6th-4th centuries BC, Khorezm was long a stronghold of Zoroastrianism.
Eventually, however, Khorezm was conquered by the Arabs in 712, after which the region converted to Islam. Today, visitors will have to take a day trip to some of Khiva’s outlying sites to see remnants of its pre-Islamic past.
The city’s modern history began in the 10th century under the Mamunids dynasty of Khorezmshahs, ushering in a period of scientific and cultural growth. During this era, the region’s main city was Gurganj (present-day Konye-Urgench in Turkmenistan), which served as the capital from the 11th-13th centuries.
Thanks to the Mamun Academy, Khorezm became a prominent center of learning and scientific achievement. The scholar al-Khwarizmi lived here in the 9th century, whose name gave mathematics the terms ‘algorithm’ and ‘algebra.’
Like many parts of central Asia, Khorezm was devastated by the arrival of Genghis Khan in 1220. And after a brief comeback, Gurganj was later sacked by Tamerlane (Timur) in the 14th century. This led to Khiva replacing it as the region’s primary city.
In the 16th century, Khiva served as capital of the Khorezm Khanate. And by the 1600s, it became a major Muslim center, with the 18th and 19th centuries seeing a new era of prosperity and growth.
Khiva thrived as an economic hub, but it also became notorious as a center of the slave trade. Additionally, the khanate also dealt with constant threats from neighboring powers.
In the early 18th century, the khan even requested military assistance from Russia in exchange for becoming a Russian vassal. But the Russian response came so late that the next khan was already in power. Wanting to maintain independence, he assassinated the Russian troops who’d come to help!
In 1740, Khorezm became a Persian vassal instead. Nevertheless, the Russians would finally gain control in 1873. Then in 1920, Khiva became part of the USSR and finally, independent Uzbekistan in 1991.
It was during the Soviet era that Khiva was designated a historical city, undergoing massive restoration and reconstruction efforts beginning in the 1960s. While controversial, these efforts preserved much of what would otherwise have been lost to time and neglect. Nevertheless, it was the Soviets who largely created the ‘Disneyfied’ version of Khiva we see today.
Around The Ichon Qala
As mentioned, nearly all of Khiva’s historical attractions are located within the ancient walled city known as the Ichon Qala.
And this section covers things that you’ll find within, or just nearby, the Ichon Qala that are not part of the Combo Ticket – including free and paid attractions.
Islam Khoja Minaret
At 57 meters tall, this is the tallest minaret in all of Uzbekistan and now serves as one of Khiva’s most iconic symbols. And having been built in 1910, it’s also one of Khiva’s newer monuments.
Supposedly, access to this minaret used to be included in the Combo Ticket. But now, it requires a separate ticket that costs a whopping 150,000 som! I ultimately decided not to go inside.
Kalta Minor Minaret
This distinctive minaret stands out for its unusual squat, wide appearance. The reason it’s so fat is that it was originally supposed to be much higher. But the khan who commissioned it in 1851, Mohammed Amin Khan, passed away four years later before it could be completed.
Nevertheless, the Kalta Minor Minaret remains one of Khiva’s most remarkable structures, and the turquoise and blue tilework that adorns it is gorgeous. The minaret doesn’t appear to have ever been accessible, while the madrasa right next to it is now a hotel.
Pahlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum
Another attraction that’s not part of the Combo Ticket system is Pahlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum, dedicated to a local poet and philosopher who died in 1326.
Known for its beautiful tilework, the mausoleum currently costs an extra 60,000 som to enter.
Even More
Another attraction is getting to walk the old city walls, accessible near the North Gate. They currently cost around 50,000 som to access.
And just outside of the Ichon Qala is Nurullabai Palace. This is yet another attraction that used to be part of the combo ticket system, but now requires its own separate entrance fee of 120,000 som.
With reviews complaining of many empty rooms, I decided to skip it.
In terms of free things to do in Ichon Qala, you’ll find plenty of small parks where you can sit and relax. Many of them are filled with interesting sculptures celebrating Khiva’s storied past.
Essential Combo Ticket Attractions
As mentioned above, the guide to Khiva’s Combo Ticket attractions are divided between ‘Essential’ and ‘Nonessential.’ This list, of course, is subjective, and not everyone’s going to agree.
Further below, we’ll be detailing which of the ‘Nonessential’ attractions to see if you still have time. In any case, the following several attractions should definitely not be missed.
Kuhna Ark
Kuhna Ark was the residence of the khan, and it was essentially a walled city within the wider walled city of Ichon Qala. Though originally built in the 12th century, it was expanded in the 17th century, with most surviving buildings dating to the 19th century.
The complex included the khan’s residence, administrative offices, a greeting room, a mosque, a harem for royal females, and an open-air throne room.
While the fortress was once densely packed with structures, visitors today can see ancient foundations and reconstructed buildings that give a sense of its former importance.
The on-site museum is one of Khiva’s most modern and informative. It provides a historical overview of Khorezm spanning from Neolithic times to the recent past.
You’ll find displays of ancient pottery, ossuaries (containers for bones used in Zoroastrian ‘sky burial’ practices), and a model of Tuprakkala, an ancient settlement from the 1st-2nd centuries AD.
Adjacent to the Ark is a fortress watchtower offering panoramic views of the Ichon Qala, though it requires a separate entrance fee. The cost is said to be a whopping 100,000 som.
Though I went over there to confirm in the middle of the afternoon, I encountered the door locked with no staff in sight.
Tash Khauli Palace
Built in the 1830s by the ruler Allakuli Khan, this palace was intended to replace the Kuhna Ark as the new royal residence. The interior of Tash Kauli Palace, which translates to ‘Palace of Stones,’ is entirely adorned in blue ceramic tiles, making it one of Khiva’s most visually stunning buildings.
The construction was reportedly undertaken over 8 years by more than a thousand slaves. Tragically, the first architect was executed for not finishing the project in time!
Large portions of the ornate painted wooden ceilings, lattice work railings, and carved wooden columns were acquired from older buildings and represent excellent examples of Khorezmian wood craftsmanship.
And white marble pedestals intricately carved with swastikas and arabesques serve as the base of columns in the harem sections.
The palace now houses the National Museum of Khorezm National Clothes, showcasing traditional attire and textiles from the region.
The museum is clearly new (or at least recently refurbished), in contrast to some of the other shabby museums you’ll find elsewhere in Khiva.
As there were said to be around 160 rooms, there’s clearly a lot more to Tash Khauli Palace than what visitors currently have access to. But you can peek into an old bedroom with furniture set up as it would’ve looked in its heyday.
Matpana Baya Madrasa (Museum of Scholars)
Among the most modern and well-designed of Khiva’s museums, this space celebrates the scientific achievements of the Khorezm region.
On display are various scientific texts from Khorezm’s past, while you can learn about prominent scholars who studied at the legendary Khorezm Mamun Academy in Gurganj.
Among them was al-Biruni (973-1048), an astronomer, linguist, and physician who was the first person to create a globe.
Another major figure of the era was Ibn Sina, also known as Avicenna (980-1037), who wrote more than 450 works including dozens of medical texts.
Thanks to these men, the Khorezm region will always be remembered for its role in the development of science and medicine.
Oddly, much of the information here is in Uzbek only. But the museum offers an English documentary about the Khorezm region’s role in scientific history, which is well worth taking the time to sit down and watch.
Madrasa of Muhammad Rakhim Khan
From the outside, this is one of the most eye-catching madrasas in Khiva, and it represents a crucial period in the city’s history.
Muhammad Rahim Khan II (1864-1910) was one of Khiva’s greatest rulers, heavily promoting literature and art during his reign. He also significantly boosted trade and championed irrigation techniques, which were essential in such an arid region.
Inside his former madrasa, you’ll find a museum dedicated to Muhammad Rahim Khan’s reign. It’s another one of the more modern and attractive museums amongst the Combo Ticket attractions.
Notably, during Rahim Khan’s reign, the Khiva Khanate traded directly with both the Ottoman Empire and Russia, with goods from Khiva even reaching America and Western Europe.
He even established over 20 mosques, madrasas, and minarets in Khiva, transforming the city into a center of learning and culture. And he even invited German-Mennonite families to moved to Khorezm from Russia (more below).
Independence for Khiva, however, also ended during his reign, as he surrendered to Russia in 1873. Muhammad Rahim Khan would nevertheless maintain his position as the Khanate of Khiva became a Russian vassal.
Juma Mosque
This ancient mosque is unique for containing no less than 218 wooden pillars. Most of what you see dates from the 18th century, but several of the columns are said to date to a much earlier iteration of the mosque from the 10th century.
I didn’t spot any interpretive signage inside. And a visit won’t take most visitors more than several minutes. Still, the mosque is worth stopping by during your exploration of Ichon Qala, and it makes for a nice change of pace from all the museums.
Nonessential Combo Ticket Attractions
The following list of ‘Nonessential’ Combo Ticket attractions includes some that are worth visiting for those with extra time, along with others that are just downright bad. While subjective, the following landmarks are presented roughly from best to worst.
But of course, if you have a special interest in one of the following museum’s topics, ignore the ranking and go check it out.
Islam Khoja Madrasa
Despite the adjacent minaret requiring its own ticket (see above), this madrasa is still accessible with the Combo Ticket. And inside, you’ll find the Museum of the Applied Arts.
The museum displays handicrafts, ancient doors, carpets, and ceramics. The collection is great, but the museum itself is a bit rundown and shabby compared with others in the city. Nevertheless, those with an interest in traditional crafts won’t regret a visit.
As for Islam Khoja, he was an early 20th-century reformer who worked to modernize Khiva before being assassinated by rivals.
Madrasa of Qutlug
The Madrasa of Qutlug, built between 1804 and 1812, was the first two-storey madrasa in Khiva. But it lacks the ornate tiles of other madrasas in Uzbekistan.
One of the highlights for visitors today is getting to enter the underground water basin that once provided water for residents in the 19th century.
Today, the madrasa hosts a collection of crafts, while you’ll also encounter random exhibits on things like local agriculture. Interesting, but hardly essential.
Madrasa Sherghazi
A lot of Khiva’s combo ticket attractions are ancient madrasas that have since been transformed into museums about various topics. But at Madrasa Sherghazi, the topic of the museum is madrasas themselves.
Madrasas are educational institutions in the Islamic world where children study mainly religious topics but also science, philosophy and art. And this one, built in 1720, was considered the most prestigious of the 18th century.
There’s also a sub-section of the museum here dedicated to traditional medicine. Here you can learn more about al-Biruni and Avicenna mentioned above.
The Mennonite Museum
The Mennonites originated in Switzerland and the Netherlands before spreading all over the world. And in the second half of the 18th century, many of them started moving to Russia at the invitation of Catherine II.
And then, upon the invitation of Muhammad Rahimkhan II in 1884, they traveled from Russia to Uzbekistan.
Mennonites have long been known for being hardworking and excellent builders. And they assisted the khan on various construction projects.
But as is typical with Mennonite communities, they largely lived isolated from the general populace, speaking their own language and handling their own education system.
They were eventually expelled in 1937 due to their insular nature and their disregard for certain local laws.
Madrasa of Matpanabay
This is a relatively unimpressive madrasa which houses a small museum on the history of Arabic calligraphy in the region. If that topic doesn’t hold a special interest for you, this attraction is easily skippable.
Madrasa Qozi Kalon
Built in 1905 by Muhammad Salim Oksund, this former madrasa now hosts the Museum of Khorezm Music. You’ll find a plethora of musical instruments on display, along with mannequins demonstrating what a typical performance looked like.
Again, this is only for visitors who have a special interest in the topic.
Qozixona
This is a small, one-room museum dedicated to the region’s ancient court system. Given the prevalence of Sharia Law in the Khiva Khanata, the clergy played a major role in these courts.
While certainly not worth going out of your way for, you can find this museum just by the Ark.
New Method School
The New Method School, built from 1910-1912, was the first secular school built in Khiva as opposed to the traditional madrasas.
Despite being listed as a Combo Ticket attraction, it was completely empty and unstaffed during my visit. Renovations seemed to be going on, but it’s unclear what the future holds for the structure.
Additional Info
Khiva has plenty of accommodation options, many of them budget-friendly. And you have the choice of staying within the Ichon Qala or somewhere outside of it.
I stayed within the Ichon Qala at Muhtasham Hotel located near the North Gate. This was one of my better stays in Uzbekistan, as I got a spacious private room and bathroom for an affordable price. And a hearty breakfast was included as well.
Furthermore, the staff were very pleasant and more than happy to answer any questions. Despite this being a standard hotel, I found the staff a lot more accommodating than what I experienced at ‘homestays’ in Bukhara and Samarkand.
Other popular options within the Ichon Qala include Islambek Hotel (also a popular tour operator) and Khiva Siyovush Hotel.
Budget-conscious travelers might want to stay outside (but still within walking distance) of the Ichon Qala. Doing so gives you easier access to less touristy restaurants and shops. Garden Palace Khiva and Central Park Hostel are both popular options.
Note that when visiting Uzbekistan, you’re supposed to collect little slips from each accommodation proving where you stayed and for how many nights. You may then be asked to show them when leaving the country.
A lot of hotel owners will tell you that the system is digitized now and therefore it shouldn’t matter anymore. There are also many cases where the officers won’t ask anything at all.
But the reality on the ground is that immigration officers are indeed still sometimes asking for the paper slips. And I’ve met some travelers who got themselves into trouble when they couldn’t provide them.
I entered and exited the country twice, and though I wasn’t asked anything during my first exit, I was asked during my second. Fortunately, I had them on me.
Generally speaking, Uzbekistan is one of the easier countries to travel through in Central Asia thanks to its rail network. You can easily book tickets online or via the official Uzbek Railways app. And despite being situated in a remote part of the country, Khiva is easily accessible by train.
Coming from Samarkand, the journey lasts a little over five hours if you take the fast morning train. Otherwise, slower trains take as long as ten hours. I ended up traveling to Samarkand from Khiva, with the train departing around 2 pm and not arriving until 1 am!
Add several more hours if you’ll be traveling to or from Tashkent.
From Bukhara, the journey can last either around three hours or six depending on which train you take.
For those in a rush, it’s also possible to fly from Tashkent to the city of Urgench, from which you can take a taxi or bus to Khiva (about 1 hour).