The Ultimate 3-Week Afghanistan Travel Itinerary

Afghanistan, Travel Tips
July 30, 2026
Balkh, Bamyan, Ghazni, Herat, Itineraries, Kabul, Kandahar, Samangan

Last Updated on: 26th May 2026, 11:11 pm

Few who make the effort to travel to Afghanistan will regret it. While there are a lot of challenges involved and precautions to take when it comes to touring the country, this detailed Afghanistan itinerary covers logistics and the best order in which to visit the top destinations.

This itinerary is designed for independent travelers – the way I explored Afghanistan in 2025. Back then, it was possible to move around the country freely. However, as of 2026, most visitors are now required to travel with licensed guides.

But even with a guide, you can use it as a reference to ensure you’re hitting the major sites. And who knows – the rules may loosen up in the future.

This itinerary starts in Kabul and ends in Mazar-i-Sharif, culminating with an onward journey to Uzbekistan. But you could also do this route in reverse.

The plan outlined below is designed for budget-conscious travelers with time to spare. And you may also want to throw in a few extra rest days as you see fit.

The total time to see the main cities and their highlights should take you around three weeks. But if you’re flying in for a shorter trip, adapt accordingly.

Have just a week in Afghanistan? Spend a couple days in Kabul, a couple in Bamyan, one in Ghazni, then return to Kabul.

In regards to when you should visit Afghanistan, the best time is from May through October, avoiding the brutal winters. Also be sure to check your dates against Islamic holidays – especially Ramadan – as government offices close and transport routes diminish.

Day 0: Arrive in Kabul

Kabul is now connected with a number of international destinations by air, including Islamabad, Istanbul, Dubai, and a few others.

For those traveling by land, it’s also possible to get to Kabul in a day from Peshawar, Pakistan via the Torkham Border crossing. But it’s widely regarded as one of the world’s most chaotic crossings. And it also frequently closes.

If you arrive early enough, you may have time to get your permit sorted. But Day 1 of this Afghanistan itinerary will allow you enough time for that.

WHERE TO STAY IN KABUL: The main place to consider staying in Kabul is the Shar-e Naw district. Not only is the neighborhood centrally located, but it’s also home to modern shopping malls and coffee shops, allowing for a soft landing for those just entering the country.

From my experience traveling all over Afghanistan in 2025, Kabul was the only city where I could simply book a hotel on Booking. (Though things are always changing.)

The one I chose was Kabul Abdal Guest House, though it doesn’t seem to be on Booking anymore at the time of writing. The location was excellent and the staff were really friendly, but the main downside was cleanliness.

At the time of writing, the cheapest option in town seems to be Afghan Arya Guest House & Tours. The reviews look great, and I probably would’ve chosen it had it been on Booking at the time of my visit.

Another one of the most popular options for budget travelers in Kabul is Afghania Guest House, which seems to have been around for a long time. Just note that the bathrooms there are shared.

For a slightly higher price, the Khyber Hotel is another highly-rated option in Shar-e Naw.

Day 1: Get Permits, SIM Card, Cash, etc. Sorted

If Kabul is your first destination in Afghanistan, you’re supposed to head to the Afghan Tour Directorate to obtain a permit for traveling around Kabul and around the country (this is not the same as your visa).

For many years prior to 2026, travelers would visit the Ministry of Information & Culture office instead, which is what I did. Unfortunately, I’m unable to find concrete information on the exact location of the current office, but this article will be updated once that becomes clear.

As discussed in our Afghanistan Planning Guide, it seems like Afghan Tour is requiring foreign travelers to hire licensed tour guides before obtaining a travel permit for the country. Information on this is changing week to week at the time of writing.

In any case, you’ll have to take care of your permit on the first day you arrive in the country. And you should also get local currency and a SIM card on this day as well. Again, check our Afghanistan Planning Guide for more info.

If you have time left over, try visiting an attraction near the city center like Wazir Akbar Khan Hill.

Day 2: Explore Kabul

In one day, you can visit Babur Garden, the National Museum of Afghanistan, and Darul Aman Palace, all of which are relatively close to one another.

Unfortunately, no ridesharing apps exist in Kabul, so you’ll have to flag down drivers and haggle.

If you still have time left over on this day, check out landmarks like Shah-Do Shamshira Mosque and Bird Market, or simply hang out in the Shar-e-Naw district.

Day 3: Explore Kabul

One of the most essential sites in Kabul would have to be Sakhi Shrine. Just note that you may be able to have your driver to take you there on your way back from one of the day trips mentioned on Day 4 and Day 5.

During your time in the city, Maranjan Hill and the OMAR Mine Museum shouldn’t be missed. And they’re conveniently within walking distance of one another.

Day 4: Visit Shewaki Stupa

Shewaki Stupa is located in Kabul Province’s Bagrami District, about 11 km southeast of Kabul City. But most of the journey winds through narrow streets in small towns on the capital’s outskirts, so it takes about 45 minutes to get there.

Expect to pay around 2000 AFN for the roundtrip journey, while the site is free to enter.

Shewaki Stupa was constructed in the 1st century AD and it was likely inhabited until the 5th century. This period largely overlaps with the Kushan era. It’s arguably one of the best-preserved stupas from its era from the ancient region of Gandhara.

That’s partly because it was recently restored between 2009-2013 by the Afghan Cultural Heritage Consulting Organisation.

As a visit to Shewaki Stupa won’t take up a full day, you’ll have time left over in the afternoon to see attractions you may have missed in the city.

Day 5: A Visit to Paghman

Located just about 20 km outside of the capital, Paghman is known for its mountain views, riverside restaurants, and the elaborate Paghman Palace and Gardens.

Is it the most exciting experience you can have in Afghanistan – or even Kabul? No. But it is indeed beautiful, and it offers a glimpse into how Kabulites like to spend their free time.

The best way to get to Paghman is to arrange a driver through your hotel. In my case, I paid around 2000 AFN with no time limit, and my driver also took me to Qargha Lake on the way.

The Paghman Gardens are the top highlight here. They’re home to thousands of plant varieties, including poplar, pine and various fruit trees, along with a plethora of shrubs and seasonal flowers.

While the area costs 500 AFN for foreigners to enter, you may find Paghman Palace inaccessible.

Day 6: Onward to Bamyan

Coming from Kabul, you’ll first want to head to the place called ‘Bamyan Terminal’ on Google Maps. (Also double-check with your hotel first to confirm.)

Getting to the terminal is a journey in its own right. It takes about 30-40 minutes from the Shar-e Naw district, and costs 400-500 AFN by private taxi to get there.

There aren’t any regular buses departing from this terminal – just shared taxis and minivans. Fortunately, the taxi driver who brought me also helped me negotiate with a shared taxi driver for Bamyan.

I paid 700 AFN for the journey to Bamyan, which included an extra charge to sit in the front seat. As with shared taxis in other countries, the driver will only depart when full. Without stopping, the drive to Bamyan should take around three hours, but we did stop for lunch along the way.

Finally getting to town, the local Bamyan terminal is situated not far from the market. I was able to walk to my hotel, Noor Band Qala, in about ten minutes on foot.

WHERE TO STAY IN BAMYAN: I would highly recommend Noor Band Qala Hotel, which is where most foreigners seem to stay in Bamyan. At the time of writing, you can contact them via WhatsApp at +93 77 107 1854.

I paid 1500 AFN per night, which included a private bathroom and breakfast (only served from 6:00-8:00!). The staff were very helpful and connected me with reliable drivers to places like Shahr-e-Zohak and Band-e-Amir National Park. As mentioned above, they also helped me with the local permit.

The Wifi mostly worked well, but it wasn’t always consistent. So be sure to get a SIM card in Kabul that you can use as a hotspot.

Day 7: Historical Bamyan

Start the day at Shahr-e-Gholghola and obtain your Bamyan combo ticket there. At the time of writing, it’s the only location selling such tickets.

Shahr-e-Gholghola came to be in the late Sasanian period during the 6th century. And then following Buddhism’s decline in the 8th century, it served as Bamyan’s main center of Islam.

It was eventually destroyed by Genghis Khan, however. And the event earned it its nickname, the ‘City of Screams.’

Next, proceed to the Bamyan Buddhas on foot – arguably the most famous (and infamous) attraction in Afghanistan. You could spend a couple of hours exploring the various niches.

After resting at your hotel, arrange for a driver to take you to Shahr-e-Zohak in the late afternoon. Shahr-e-Zohak is about a 20-minute drive from central Bamyan, and you can expect to pay around 400 AFN for the roundtrip journey.

In ancient times, the fortress was situated along an entry point into the Bamyan Valley and played a key role in Silk Road trade. But it too was destroyed by the Mongols in 1221.

Day 8: Band-e-Amir National Park

A visit to Band-e-Amir National Park can be done with a driver arranged through your hotel. You should be back by midday or late afternoon, so if you only have two full days in Bamyan, you can squeeze in a visit to Dragon Valley on this day.

Band-e-Amir lies about 75 km from Bamyan in the Hindu Kush mountain range, sitting at around 3,000 meters above sea level. Established as Afghanistan’s first national park in 2009, it covers 600 square kilometers and consists of six lakes created by natural travertine dams.

The water is filled with limestone and other minerals that give the lakes their trademark color. It’s especially striking when contrasted with the surrounding desert.

It takes around 1.5-2 hours to reach Band-e-Amir from central Bamyan, including multiple security checkpoints. Expect to pay around 1,800 AFN for a private day tour, while entrance to the park costs 410 AFN for foreigners at the time of writing.

Most visits to the park start at Band-e-Haibat, the most developed of Band-e-Amir’s lakes. It’s here that local visitors typically hang out and ride around on paddle boats before heading to lunch.

If you want to see additional lakes, you can find a walking path behind the shrine of Ali that sits beside Band-e-Haibat. While not quite a hike given the flat terrain, the walk to the final viewpoint and back should take around 90 minutes.

Just note that sometimes women are barred entry from the park, in which case you’d need to get there extra early before the staff start their shift. Female travelers should ask around in Bamyan to confirm the current situation in advance.

Day 9: From Bamyan to Ghazni

Recall the ‘Bamyan Terminal’ in Kabul mentioned on Day 6. Conveniently, shared taxis to Ghazni also leave from the same terminal. So as long as you depart early enough, you should be able to get from Bamyan to Kabul and then from Kabul to Ghazni on the same day.

The ride from Kabul to Ghazni lasts roughly two hours. I paid 600 AFN for the journey, which included a bit extra to sit in the front seat.

Arriving in Ghazni, the city’s terminal was a bit out of town, and I then had to pay another 200 AFN for a private taxi to take me to my Hotel.

WHERE TO STAY IN GHAZNI: Though I’d seen Hotel Farkhi recommended online by other foreign travelers, but I couldn’t come across a phone number. So my only option was to just show up and hope they’d have a room.

Fortunately, everything turned out fine. There was even one younger staff member there who spoke some English and was very helpful. I was only staying one night and I paid 1500 AFN.

But unfortunately, in comparison with other hotels in Afghanistan that cost the exact same price, Hotel Farkhi was rather subpar.

On the one hand, Farkhi is also a popular restaurant, so you won’t have to search for food. But my room lacked a private bathroom, and the bathroom was shared with not only other hotel guests but also restaurant patrons.

Speaking of the restaurant patrons, Farkhi seems to be one of the most popular hangout spots for the local Taliban. In fact, it seemed like the Taliban made up a majority of their clientele – obvious from the large rifles they brought with them to the restaurant.

I sometimes got strange looks as I was coming in and out of my room, but for the most part, they didn’t pay me much attention as I sat amongst them for my meals.

Day 10: Explore Ghazni

Situated at the heart of a strategic crossroads, Ghazni was once the center of a mighty empire that stretched from Iran to India. But due to waves of invasions, little remains of its once glorious past, except for a few notable landmarks.

Don’t miss the Mausoleum of Sultan Mahmud of Ghazni, who ruled when the Ghaznavid Empire was at its peak. But by far, Ghazni’s most important historical site is the Ghazni Minarets.

Also known as the ‘Towers of Victory,’ the two surviving minarets stand about 600 m apart and were uniquely built in the shape of an eight-sided star.

A bit further southwest is the Ghazni Citadel, which stood here since as early as the Kushan era (1st-4th centuries AD). And it persisted well after the destruction of the surrounding city.

At the time of my visit, foreign travelers in Ghazni were required to be accompanied by a staff member from the local Ministry of Information & Culture Office. This didn’t cost anything in 2025.

Day 11: Onward to Kandahar

When traveling from Ghazni to Kandahar, it’s easiest to just take a shared taxi. While I can’t recall the exact location where I boarded one (it was by a random gas station), it shouldn’t really matter, as according to Ghazni’s local rules, foreigners can only go sightseeing in the company of a staff member from the Ministry of Information & Culture.

So he should just be able to tell you where to go. Or you can ask at your hotel. The journey normally takes several hours.

WHERE TO STAY IN KANDAHAR: I stayed at Fazli Hotel and Guest House, conveniently located near Martyr’s Square and within minutes on foot from the local Ministry of Information & Culture Office. The coordinates are 31°36’47.7″N 65°42’01.6″E, and you can reach them via WhatsApp at +93 79 271 5077 to make a reservation in advance.

Upon arrival, I was given two options for rooms: 1200 AFN for a room with a private bathroom, and 1000 AFN for a room with a shared one.

If you’re not on such a budget, consider the Afghan Continental Guest House which is said to cost roughly $30 USD per night. You can find the location and contact info on Google Maps.

Day 12: Explore Kandahar

A lot of tourists might only need one day in Kandahar. But considering how spread out its attractions are, having two days is more comfortable.

And given how Kandahar locals are quite curious about foreigners, you’ll likely spend a significant portion of your visit just chatting.

After getting your local permit, on Day 1, try visiting the Khirka Sharif Complex. It’s home to two of the city’s most significant landmarks: the Mausoleum of Ahmad Shah Durrani and the Shrine of the Cloak of Muhammad.

You can then take a taxi over to Chil Zena, followed by a visit to the ancient citadel of Alexandria Arachosia.

If you have any time left over, continue further to the Mausoleum of Mirwais Hotak. Or, save it for your next day.

Day 13: Explore Kandahar

On this day, you can hire a taxi (around 500 AFN) to see the Shrine of Baba Wali, situated about 20 minutes north of central Kandahar.

And you’ll also have time left over to see anything you may have missed the previous day. The Red Mosque is another major attraction in the city.

As mentioned, there’s a lot more to Kandahar than just its attractions. It’s a rather intense place, to say the least, so be sure to check out our detailed Kandahar guide for a taste of what to expect.

Day 14: Onward to Herat

At the time of writing, the smoothest land route to Herat is from Kandahar. While this route used to be considered very dangerous, with the Taliban back in control, the journey is much safer now and relatively uneventful.

From Kandahar, expect to pay around 1000 AFN for a seat on a ‘VIP Bus.’ The ride lasted roughly 8.5 hours, including a few rest stops and prayer stops. While night buses are said to exist, given the way people drive in these parts, daytime travel is a better idea.

WHERE TO STAY IN HERAT: I stayed at Amiri Hotel, which seems to be the place that most foreign visitors to Herat choose. It was also by far the most luxurious place I stayed in Afghanistan. Despite this, they’re not present on Booking or other websites, so you’ll have to make a reservation via WhatsApp. You should be able to reach them at +93792561515.

I brought the price down from 2500 AFN per night to 2000 AFN (about $30 USD at the time of writing).

My room was spacious, clean, and modern and it had hot water. Despite this, the toilet was still a squat toilet!

They use Starlink for internet and it was the fastest and most stable connection that I experienced anywhere in the country. Furthermore, the price also included a traditional Afghani breakfast.

Day 15: Explore Herat

Upon his visit in the early 16th century, Babur, the founder of the Mughal Empire, declared Herat the ‘world’s finest city.’ It was founded back in 330 BC by none other than Alexander the Great. And many centuries later, it would serve as the thriving capital of the Timurid Empire, with numerous surviving landmarks dating to that era.

Though there’s a lot to see in Herat, it can reasonably be explored within a single full day as long as you start early enough.

The essential highlights are the Herat Citadel, which dates back to the time of the city’s founding, and the Blue Mosque, a Timurid-era masterpiece.

Other worthwhile attractions, meanwhile, include the Shrine of Khwaja Abdullah Ansari, the Musalla Complex/Mausoleum of Queen Gawhar Shad, and the Shahzada Qasim & Shahzada Abdullah Mausoleums.

Day 16: Onward to Mazar-i-Sharif

This is the trickiest part of this itinerary. The journey between Herat and Mazar-i-Sharif is a very rough and long one, lasting over 20 hours in total with a transfer in the city of Maimana. You can do it all in one go, or rest for a night at a Maimana hotel.

Since the road is so rough, no VIP Buses exist for this route, and a cramped shared taxi is your only option. In my case, they even crammed four grown men in the backseat!

We experienced multiple breakdowns along the way. But considering how cramped the car was, anything that allowed us to get out and stretch our legs came as a relief! Learn more details about the journey at the end of our Mazar-i-Sharif/Old Balkh guide.

If you’re intent on traveling by land, taking this route would still probably be preferable to taking a bus from Herat to Kabul and then traveling to Mazar-i-Sharif from there. That’s why most people fly back to Kabul and then travel onward from there.

Fortunately, a new direct plane route has recently been announced in 2026 between Herat and Mazar-i-Sharif, though it may only depart once a week.

Day 17: Rest Day in Mazar-i-Sharif

Assuming you’ve taken the treacherous land journey from Herat to Mazar-i-Sharif, you’ll want a whole day to rest and recover. Fortunately, most hotels in Afghanistan are fine with morning check-ins.

You may also want to get your permit business out of the way on this day after your nap.

WHERE TO STAY IN MAZAR-I-SHARIF: While it may be tempting to choose one of the hotels right across the street from the Blue Mosque on its western side, the hotels here generally offer terrible value for money.

Therefore, budget travelers who still want something comfortable should consider Hotel Zarafshan, which offers private rooms with private bathrooms and breakfast for 1500 AFN per night.

This was one of the best deals I found in Afghanistan and thanks to the friendly staff, it was one of my top accommodation experiences in the country.

If you’re looking for something a bit more upscale, you can find Rahat Hotel right across the street from Zarafshan.

Day 18: Explore Mazar-i-Sharif & Old Balkh

Mazar-i-Sharif is home to around half a million people, but it essentially just has one notable landmark for tourists: the Blue Mosque. In fact, the city itself was developed around it, with Mazar-i-Sharif translating to ‘Tomb of the Saint.’

At the time of writing, entry to the Blue Mosque costs 350 AFN for foreigners, though non-Muslims aren’t allowed inside the main structure. Therefore, your visit shouldn’t take up too much time, and you should be able to see it on the same day as Old Balkh.

Otherwise, you can also try seeing it the previous day or the following afternoon.

Before Mazar-i-Sharif was founded, the ancient city of Balkh served as the region’s main hub. Balkh was the heart of the ancient region Bactria, and it was a place where Zoroastrian, ancient Greek, and Buddhist ideas flourished side-by-side (much like the neighboring Gandhara region).

Highlights include the Mosque of Nine Cupola’s (perhaps Afghanistan’s oldest), the Green Mosque, the ancient citadel, and Rumi’s former home.

Old Balkh is located about 24 km northwest of Mazar-i-Sharif, and you’ll need to arrange for a private driver to take you there. With help from my hotel, I paid 2500 AFN for the half-day trip.

Note that Old Balkh has special rules for foreign travelers, and you’ll have to visit in the company of an armed Taliban guard. This service should be free, and you can learn more in our dedicated guide.

Day 19: A Day Trip to Takht-e-Rostam

Takht-e-Rostam, located in Samangan Province, is accessible as a day trip from the city of Mazar-i-Sharif. And on the way, you can also stop at the 19th-century Jahan Nama Palace.

I paid 4000 AFN for a private driver arranged by my hotel. Note that Samangan Province has unique permit rules which you can learn more about in our dedicated guide.

While the Takht-e-Rostam has been named after the Persian hero Rostam, it’s historically fully Buddhist. The main portion is essentially just a large stupa carved out of the bedrock – but there’s a lot more to it than first meets the eye.

The massive stupa was not built, but entirely carved from the top down. This is incredibly unique in the Buddhist world.

Across from the large hill on which the stupa stands is yet another hill that was surely occupied by the same Buddhist community. It’s commonly referred to as a bazaar, but it’s also possible that the area was part of a larger monastic complex.

If you decide to skip Herat, you could potentially stop at Takht-e-Rostam in between Kabul and Mazar-i-Sharif.

Day 20: Onward to Uzbekistan

On this day, it’s finally time to leave Afghanistan behind. The nearby border with Uzbekistan is known as Hairatan, I paid a taxi driver 1500 AFN to get there from the city (I really had to haggle hard for this price).

A bus to the border is another possibility. Expect the journey to take around 1.5-2 hours.

Note that you will have to do a lot of walking at this border, and the region can get extremely hot in summer, so starting early would be a good idea.

The border is rather calm compared with the chaos of the Torkham Border with Pakistan. Notably, as I was leaving, one of the Taliban guards did ask to see some of the photos I took during my travels, but he soon got distracted and lost interest.

The two countries are separated by the Amu Darya River, and you won’t be allowed to walk across the entire bridge. You’re essentially forced to hop in a shared van to a checkpoint, but the price is minimal (about 5000 som, or less than $0.50 USD). On that note, it would be wise to get some Uzbek currency on the Afghan side of the border in advance.

Given the prevalence of the drug trade in Afghanistan prior to the recent Taliban takeover, expect heavy scrutiny on the Uzbek side. About halfway across the bridge, the military will inspect your luggage.

Later on, past passport control, Uzbek border guards inspected my bags again and checked EVERYTHING! But they were cracking jokes the entire time and the atmosphere wasn’t very tense.

If you have an Uzbek eSIM installed already, you may be able to use the Yandex Go ride hailing app. Otherwise, you’ll have to haggle with a private driver to get to town. Expect to pay around 50,000-80,000 som.

Learn more about things to do in Termez – and Uzbekistan as a whole – in future guides.