Last Updated on: 19th January 2026, 09:08 am
It would be hard to argue against Jaisalmer, Rajasthan being one of India’s most picturesque towns. But perhaps the small city has gotten too popular for its own good, with awful traffic and new hotels popping up at an alarming rate. For a brief escape from the crowds and touts, don’t miss the Bada Bagh Cenotaphs, which can also be visited in tandem with two stunning Jain temples.
The following locations are all located to the west of Jaisalmer and can only be reached via private driver. Either you can try negotiating with one of the tuk tuk drivers in town, or perhaps ask your hotel if they can help.
That’s what I did, and I visited cenotaphs and temples with one of the sons who runs Diamond Guest House for a fee of Rs 800 (before tip). You can think of this as a half-day trip, but can make it even shorter by cutting out Lodhurva.
For more information on reaching Jaisalmer and where to stay, be sure to check the end of the article.
Bada Bagh Cenotaphs
Located about 6 km west of central Jaisalmer, the Bada Bagh Cenotaphs cost Rs 300 for foreigners to enter and are open from 8:00-18:00.
It would be wise to get here relatively early – both to beat the crowds and to see the sun light up the cenotaphs in a beautiful golden hue.
The cenotaphs here were built as chhatris, which are semi-open pavilions constructed atop elevated platforms.
Chhatris didn’t appear in India until the 12th century AD, and are considered an innovation of Indo-Islamic architecture. Nevertheless, many of the Rajput kingdoms of Rajasthan were Hindu, and chhatris can be found all over the state.
Other notable examples include those of Kota and Bundi, while you can also find some in the outskirts of Jodhpur.
But how did this remote area become such an important place for the local ruling family?
In the 15th century, a king named Jait Singh II (r. 1497–1530) commissioned a water tank in the area in order to greenify the desert. Later on, his son Lunkaran decided to built a cenotaph here, with many subsequent rulers would following suit.
Visitors are free to walk around the chhatris but are requested to remove their shoes before stepping up on the platforms.
Looking off to the side, you’ll see vast agricultural fields, which have probably persisted since the first water tank was established centuries ago.
Nearly all of the chhatris feature stelae. And if you take a look at the carvings of horses, you’ll get an idea of how an individual died. For example, a horse with its leg raised means that the person died in battle. Otherwise, they died of natural causes.
Construction of chhatris at Bada Bagh would continue until the 20th century. The last cenotaph to be built here was that of Maharawal Jawahir Singh (r. 1914 – 1949), as his son died before the project was over. This was considered a bad omen, and so the construction of new cenotaphs at Bada Bagh would cease entirely.
Be that as it may, the cenotaph of Maharawal Jawahir Singh does appear to be mostly complete today, and locals still climb the steps to pay their respects.
Lodhurva Jain Temple
Next, my driver and I continued west for another 11 kilometers or so, enjoying the picturesque desert scenery along the way.
Eventually, we arrived at the most remote destination of the day: the Lodhurva Jain Temple, which costs Rs 100 for foreigners to enter.
All in all, the temple complex is rather small, but it has enough impressive architectural features to warrant a visit. First, you’ll encounter the intricately carved torana archway adorned with various figures from Jain cosmology.
The temple itself, meanwhile, was built in a unique shape that some liken to a folded accordion. And its outer walls are entirely decorated with latticed stone carvings.
Another interesting feature is the large carving of a Kalpavriksha, a wish-fulfilling divine tree, located to the side of the complex. Notably, the Kalpavriksha is also an important concept in both Hinduism and Buddhism.
The Lodhurva Jain Temple is not just eye-catching but historically important. Before the founding of Jaisalmer, the prior capital of the Bhati clan was Lodhruva, which had been established in the 8th century. And this temple was constructed not long after in the 9th century.
After the capital moved to Jaisalmer, the temple would be plundered by Afghan rulers such as Mahmud of Ghazni and later the Ghurid Empire.
But it was eventually rebuilt in 1615. And amazingly, there’s nothing left of the former capital of Lodhurva besides this very temple!
The photography rules at this temple weren’t entirely clear, but there were a number of worshippers inside at the time of my visit, and so I chose not to photograph much of the interior.
The main idol inside is Parshvanatha, the 23rd Jain Tirthankara, and the temple remains an important pilgrimage spot, particularly for members of Jainism’s Svetambara sect.
On our way back east, we stopped at a local Hindu temple dedicated to Ganesha, though I wouldn’t take any photos.
According to my driver, people go there to pray when they plan to build a new house, and they make small towers with stones that can be seen all over the temple grounds.
And interestingly, much of the temple gets flooded with water for a few months during the rainy season each year – something the temple builders had in mind from the onset. But during the dry season, it appears relatively normal.
Amar Sagar Jain Temple
The Amar Sagar Jain Temple is located about 7 km west of Jaisalmer, and this would be our last stop of the day before heading back to town.
Officially, the temple costs Rs 100 to enter and then an extra Rs 50 for photography (with either cellphone or camera). For whatever reason, though, I was told I didn’t have to pay for photography – only for the same staff member to later ask me for a tip!
Speaking of photography, taking photos of all the shrines and idols is fine here, despite it being strictly prohibited at famous Jain temples like Ranakpur.
I asked my driver why this was, and he told me that temples like Amar Sagar are not run by ‘real Jains.’ I have no idea whether or not this was true, but he’d also expressed his dismay at the fact that, unlike Hindu temples, Jains often charge entry fees for theirs.
In any case, the temple grounds were clean and the structures seemed well cared for. So it at least seems like the money is being put to good use.
Not a whole lot of information seems to be out there about this temple, but it’s dedicated to Lord Parshwanath, the 22nd of the 24 Jain Tirthankaras, who’s revered for being an ancient reviver of Jainism.
While there’s no individual structure here that can rival the main temple of Lodhurva Jain Temple, the complex is considerably bigger, and you’ll find several different structures to explore – not to mention extensive gardens.
Again, many of the temples were built of sandstone and carved in stunning geometric patterns. I’ve been to a lot of temples throughout India, but Jain temple architecture never ceases to amaze me.
After an hour or so of admiring the details of the various structures – both inside and out – it was finally time to head home.
Even if you can’t make it to the more distant Lodhurva Temple, the Amar Sagar Jain Temple and the Bada Bagh Cenotaphs make for a rewarding visit for those with multiple days in Jaisalmer.
Additional Info
Jaisalmer is located at the western edge of India, so getting there is always going to be a bit of a detour.
It’s possible to come as far as Delhi, with the Delhi-Jaisalmer Express train being a long overnight journey.
Most travelers will likely be coming from another place in Rajasthan, and one can reach the city directly from Jodhpur, Bikaner, Ajmer, and Jaipur. Those coming from Udaipur will have to transfer in Ajmer, the nearest major station to Pushkar.
If you have limited time in India but don’t want to miss Jaisalmer, it’s also possible to fly into Jaisalmer Airport. You can reach it from cities like Jaipur, Mumbai and Bangalore.
If you’re doing a long trip through India, it’s best to create an account on the official Indian Railways (IRCTC) website. But that’s much easier said than done!
If you’re just doing a shorter trip, it’s best to book train tickets through 12GoAsia. You’ll pay a significantly higher fee, but it’s a much smoother experience.
The above link is an affiliate link, but I did use 12GoAsia a few times before I got my IRCTC account set up, and I had no issues.
Aurangabad also has its own airport, with direct flights from Mumbai and Delhi.
Jaisalmer has changed a lot over the years. I first visited the city a couple of times in 2008 and 2009. Back then, there was only one little hotel/backpacker district situated to the northwest of the fort.
Today, that area is hardly recognizable. Now, the entire city has essentially become one massive tourist district, while there are a lot more options now within the fort itself.
Jaisalmer used to be known as a rare haven of calm amidst the chaos that is India. But that’s sadly no longer the case. However, if you find somewhere within the fort – ideally down a narrow alleyway – you’ll get a glimpse of the old, laidback Jaisalmer that used to win so many travelers’ hearts.
During my recent long visit to the city, I had a great experience at Diamond Guest House, situated right in the heart of the fort. The family that manages it were incredibly friendly and helpful, while my room had an amazing view overlooking the adjacent Jain temple.
Even if you don’t happen to get that room, you can still enjoy great views from their rooftop. All in all, as a budget traveler, it was easily my top accommodation experience in India.
As mentioned above, I also stayed outside the fort at Hotel Tofu Safari during my first few nights in town. And that’s who I booked my Jaisalmer Desert Safari with. The hotel was well-located and reasonably priced, but upon arriving and seeing how much the city had changed, I knew I wanted to stay within the fort instead.
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