Last Updated on: 9th May 2024, 01:25 am
The Ruta Puuc, or ‘Puuc Route,’ is a term used to collectively refer to five Mayan sites located south of Mérida. Not only do they share similar histories, but each former city-state was built in what we now call the Puuc style of architecture. During prior visits to Yucatán state, I visited Uxmal, Kabah and Sayil – all accessible by bus. Finally, during a more recent visit, I got to see the two Puuc sites that had eluded me: Xlapak and Labná.
While Xlapak and Labná can only be accessed by car at the time of writing, one wonders if some kind of shuttle system is in the works following the completion of the Tren Maya.
Despite both Xlapak and Labná being quite small, new visitor centers on the level of Uxmal’s appeared to be under construction at the time of my visit, indicating that authorities expect a huge influx of visitors in the near future.
Both Xlapak and Labná cost $75 MXN at the time of writing, with the price seemingly creeping up by 5 pesos every few months. Frankly speaking, these two sites on their own might not be worth the long drive out from Mérida, so be sure to also visit Uxmal, Kabah and Sayil on the same day.
Xlapak
Xlapak is located about 5 km east of Sayil. It’s easily the least essential of the five Ruta Puuc sites, but it won’t take up much of your time to quickly explore.
With that said, you’ll still have to pay the $75 MXN entry fee, as no combo tickets exist at the time of writing.
Occupied from 250 BC, Xlapak would reach its zenith from around 800-1000 AD. And this is when the buildings we see today were built.
Approaching the site from the parking lot, the first area you’ll encounter is Group 1, also known as the Palace.
It’s easily the best-preserved structure at Xlapak, and here you’ll find the typical long-snouted Chaak faces that you’ll also see at nearby sites.
Chaak was the local Mayan rain deity, and he was heavily revered here in a region that was almost entirely dependent on rainwater for survival. As you’ll notice, this part of Yucatán lacks rivers and lakes.
There are a total of nine vaulted rooms inside Structure 1 which are today home to a community of bats.
Next, you’ll walk along a forested path for a short while until to reach the next structure. But on the way, you won’t have to look hard to spot multiple mounds in the forest.
While there’s surely a lot more to uncover at Xlapak, no major excavations seem to have taken place here in decades.
Eventually, you’ll reach ‘Group 2,’ which features some typical Puuc-style columns above its doorways.
Continuing along the forested path, you’ll then reach Group 3. While the worst preserved of the bunch, it seems like it might’ve been the largest and most elaborate structure at Xlapaj in its heyday.
While Xlapak could have potential with further excavations, it’s honestly a bit surprising that authorities are charging a full admission price here. Hopefully the money will someday be put to good use.
Labná
A couple of minutes east down the road past Xlapak lies Labná, which is indeed worth the effort to see.
Labná shares a lot in common with Sayil. But while its palace isn’t as impressive, it does feature some additional features that help it stand out.
The first structure you’ll encounter here is the Palace, which isn’t nearly as well-preserved as that of Sayil. Nevertheless, a lot of the artistic motifs of the buildings of the lower level remain in great shape.
Labná reached its zenith during the second half of the 9th century, and an inscribed date discovered at the Palace correlates with 862 AD. Therefore, it was probably built around the same time as Sayil’s.
The structure originally contained 42 rooms on the lower level and 28 on the upper level – not quite as many as the Sayil Palace’s 94. But look closely and you’ll spot some interesting carved faces that you won’t see there.
Facing away from the Palace, you’ll notice Labná’s well-preserved elevated stone road, or sacbe. But first, make a left down a grassy path to see a structure that many visitors miss.
To the east of the palace lies the Temple of the Columns. While little seems known about it, it actually appears as an extension of the main Palace structure.
Next, head back to the sacbe and continue south. Labná’s sacbe is very well preserved, and it’s impressive how high above the ground they built it.
Before the arrival of the Spanish, there were no horses or other such animals in the region, so transport here was done entirely on foot via roads like this (river transport, of course, was an option in other Mayan regions, but not here).
As you approach the next main group of buildings, you’ll encounter a pyramid known as El Mirador. Notably, it features a combed roof reminiscent of some structures you’ll find in Chiapas.
Arguably the most iconic structure of Labná is its arch. While numerous ancient Mayan ruins in Yucatán feature arches, this is probably the most stylish, with many of its Puuc-style patterns intact.
Interestingly, unlike nearby Kabah’s arch, this one doesn’t seem to mark entry into the city, but merely acts as a transition point between two parts of it.
But what lies on the other side?
Walking through the arch, you’ll encounter more fantastic Puuc-style artwork. Having been to most of the other major Mayan regions throughout Latin America, I can confirm that no other area can match Puuc’s architecture in terms of elegance.
Additional Info
In Mérida, I highly recommend people stay as central as possible. Some popular mid-range hotels in the center include Casona 61 and Kuka y Naranjo. Those on a tighter budget should also enjoy the highly-rated Hotel Santa Maria and Hotel Real Toledo.
As Mérida is so spread out, things may be much farther apart in reality than they appear on a map. Before making any booking, it’s best to confirm the precise walking distance from your accommodation to the city’s main square, Plaza Grande. From there, you can easily get around to most of the major sites and bus terminals.
Also within the historical center is the main ADO bus terminal that can take you to the ruins. It’s especially important to be close to this terminal if you plan on visiting Uxmal first thing in the morning (see above for more details).