Last Updated on: 4th August 2024, 11:28 pm
While hardly a household name today, the Tarascan Empire was the only kingdom in central Mexico that the Aztecs failed to conquer. And what remains of the former Tarascan capital of Tzintzuntzan, known for its unique circular pyramid temples, is one-of-a-kind amongst Mexican archaeological sites.
As we’ll cover shortly, a visit to Tzintzuntzan can also be combined with another interesting Tarascan site called Ihuatzio, also situated along the shore of Lake Patzcuaro. Learn all about transportation below.
But first, a brief history of the Tarascan Empire:
The Tarascan Empire: A Brief History
While we don’t know much about the region’s early history, the shores of Lake Patzcuaro were surely inhabited since very ancient times. And its inhabitants were adept at things like fishing and creating intricate crafts.
Later in the 11th century, a warlike group known as the Wacusecha came to the region. At first, they tried living side-by-side with the original inhabitants, but the various communities didn’t always get along.
And eventually, the Wacusecha decided to take over the entire area, forming a state that would become the Tarascan Empire. While they continually used their military might to expand their territory, their empire consisted of three main cities: Patzcuaro, Ihuatzio and Tzintzuntzan.
Each city would serve as the Tarascan capital at some point, but Tzintzuntzan was the main city throughout the empire’s apex. By the 15th century, it had nearly 35,000 inhabitants.
Somewhat confusingly, the Wacusecha began calling themselves ‘Purépecha’ at some point after the region’s local language. Therefore, ‘Purépecha’ and ‘Tarascan’ are often used interchangeably. And many inhabitants of the state of Michoacán still called themselves Purépecha today.
Some scholars suspect that had the Spanish not arrived in the 16th century, the Tarascan Empire may have eventually overtaken the Aztecs as Mesoamerica’s dominant power!
In 1478, in fact, the Aztecs attempted to overtake the Tarascans but were defeated, with thousands of Aztec warriors being slaughtered. The Tarascans would then continue to reject later Aztec peace offerings.
And upon the arrival of the Spanish, the Tarascans also refused to join forces with the Aztecs to fend off the foreign threat.
But the Spanish would ultimately overtake the Lake Patzcuaro region and Tzintzuntzan. As with the Aztecs, the mighty Tarascan Empire had already largely been weakened by the introuduction of various new diseases to Mesoamerica.
The Spanish would burn and pillage Tzintzuntzan, which explains why there’s not a whole lot left of the site today. But the size of the Great Platform on which the former ceremonial center stands remains highly impressive.
Visiting Tzintzuntzan
Tzintzuntzan is the name of both a modern town and the archaeological site within it. Designated by the Mexican government as a Pueblo Mágico, or ‘Magic Town,’ the small town is a destination in its own right. But first, let’s focus on the ruins.
Tzintzuntzan, which translates to ‘Place of the Hummingbirds,’ is probably the coolest-sounding name of any archaeological site in Mexico. According to legend, the Wacusecha were first guided by a deity named Tzintzuuquixu, after whom the city was later named.
Notably, the Mexica (Aztecs) have a similar story of coming from the north and ultimately settling along Lake Texcoco, which had already been inhabited for centuries.
As mentioned above, the Wacusecha were not the first people to settle along Lake Patzcuaro, though we still know little about the area’s earlier inhabitants.
As of 2024, Tzintzuntzan is open daily from 09:00 to 18:00 and costs $95 MXN to enter.
Past the ticket booth, the first main structure you’ll encounter is a former palace.
Not a whole lot seems to be known about the structure, but hundreds of human bones were uncovered beneath the floor! Furthermore, one room contains what’s left of a large altar.
Nearby, a staircase takes you down to ground level beside the main platform. The area is home to several rocks inscribed with petroglyphs which are mostly in the form of simple geometric shapes.
One particular shape the Purépecha were fond of was the spiral, which was also carved into blocks used in their constructions. While one can only speculate, the symbols likely represented some sort of natural or cosmological phenomenon.
All in all, petroglyphs like these are generally rare in Mesoamerica, especially when compared with the American Southwest, for example. In this case, scholars believe that rocks like these helped separate the sacred space from the profane.
Interestingly, it’s also possible that these stones and their carvings long predate the arrival of the Wacusecha to the region.
It’s also from down here that you can get a sense of the immense size of the Great Platform. It measures out to 400 x 250 m, and as can be seen from this angle, is entirely manmade!
This is easy to forget as you’re walking around up top, as the surface is largely covered in trees and grass.
Return to the top of the platform and proceed toward the edge, where you’ll encounter Tzintzuntzan’s most remarkable and unique feature: its yácatas.
There are five of these rounded pyramidal structures, all identical in size and built right next to one another. They’re uniquely Tarascan and appear almost as keyholes when seen from above.
The first one that visitors encounter is Yácata 5. While in better condition than some of the others, it was damaged by an amateur archaeologist (a local priest) who attempted to excavate it in 1852.
Yácata 2, meanwhile, was damaged by a British explorer named Charles Harford who was looking for buried treasure within. But the greatest damage was inflicted by the Spanish in the 16th century.
As we’ll cover shortly, much of the stone from these yácatas was usurped and used in the construction of the Monastery of San Francisco in the center of town.
Archaeologists believe that each Yácata was dedicated to Curiacueri and his four mythological brothers. And wooden temples likely existed at the top of each one. But who was Curiacueri?
Before the Wacusecha arrived, the main deity in the region had been a moon goddess named Xaratanga. The Wacusecha then introduced their main deity, Curiacueri, a solar, hunting and fire god.
Given the drastically different natures of the two deities and cultures as a whole, the two sides did not get along. And ultimately, the Wacusecha would attack their neighbors to become the dominant force in the region.
To appease the various tribes that lived in the area, however, they created a new myth involving the marriage of Curiacueri and Xaratanga. Nevertheless, Curiacueri would remain the supreme deity of the Tarascan Empire until their eventual demise.
From the edge of the platform, you can see the entirety of the modern town with Lake Patzcuaro behind it. Back in the heyday of the Tarascan Empire, this all would’ve been part of the ancient city of Tzintzuntzan.
Eventually, you’ll reach the end of the yácatas and loop around to the other side. While there are no rounded pyramids on ths side, you will see some staircases leading to the top of the platforms.
Notice how the constructions here were made with small slabs of basalt which fit together like puzzle pieces. This building style is quite rare in Mesoamerica, with the exception of the El Cerrito pyramid of Querétaro.
Heading through the forest toward the on-site museum, you’ll pass by one additional structure. Not much is known about it, but it appears somewhat similar to what’s left of the Palace.
Again, notice the spiral inscribed on some of the rocks – a common motif throughout Tarascan architecture.
The museum is small, yet modern and informative – at least if you speak Spanish, as there’s no English information here. You’ll learn about the history of the Tarascan Empire and the Purépecha people, while various ceramics and crafts are on display.
While the culture of the Wacusecha emphasized hunting and war, many older traditions of the region, such as weaving and metallurgy, persisted during the days of the empire.
Of special note is the stone sculpture of a coyote found at the nearby site of Ihuatzio (more below). The coyote was a symbol of that city, while the piece may have served as the ruler’s throne.
The Monastery of San Francisco
Leaving the ruins and heading back to town, simply cross the main road and continue heading straight, where you’ll soon encounter the Monastery of San Francisco.
Aside from the Tzintzuntzan Archaeological Site, this is the Pueblo Mágico’s other main attraction.
As one can immediately tell, much of the stone used in the construction was taken from the nearby archaeological site. Therefore, this former monastery could be considered an extension of the Tzintzuntzan ruins.
In addition the stone floor outside the church, various pieces of plaster have been remove from the walls, revealing the original Purépecha stones beneath. The spirals that can be seen at the nearby ruins appear here as well.
It’s unclear exactly how these particular stones were found and revealed, but perhaps they were discovered during extensive renovations that took place a couple of decades ago.
The former monastery requires a small entrance fee to explore which is well worth it. The complex was designed in 1530 by the Spanish architect Fray Pedro de Pila. And all throughout the church, you’ll encounter beautiful well-preserved frescoes along the walls.
While I’ve visited numerous convents-turned-museums throughout Mexico, the paintings here are among the most impressive I’ve seen.
Appropriately, within the monastery, you’ll also find a small archaeological museum with similar items to those at the on-site museum of Tzintzuntzan.
Back outside, the monastery complex contains a church which remains active. Known as the Templo de la Soledad, be sure to step inside to admire its beautiful interior and unique ceiling which appears to display indigenous motifs.
Before heading to our next destination, you may want to grab lunch. Tzintzuntzan is home to a couple of restaurants which specialize in traditional Purépecha food, and I can recommend Cocina Tradicional La Casa de Blanca.
Ihuatzio
Ihuatzio was the capital of the Tarascan Empire before Tzintzuntzan (the very first capital, however, was Patzcuaro). But after Tzintzuntzan became capital, Ihuatzio’s influence waned for the remainder of Tarascan history.
While the original city was quite extensive, the modern archaeological site consists of a single main structure within a spacious plaza.
But as you’re walking to the ruins from the main road (learn more below), it can be hard to know where the ancient city begins, as much of the former city now sits on private land owned by farmers.
While a lot of original stone was usurped to build the modern town, some of the walls surrounding the fields have probably been left in place since pre-Hispanic times.
As of 2024, Ihuatzio is open daily from 09:00 to 18:00 and costs $75 MXN to enter.
The main – and really only – structure at Ihuatzio is a large set of twin pyramid temples. Again, this particular shape is quite unique at archaeological sites in Mexico. It does remind one, however, of the double pyramid temple of Tenayuca, Mexico City.
Note that the main structure is unclimbable.
The main plaza is surrounded by five-meter high platforms. Luckily, these platforms can indeed be climbed for some great views of the temple and its rural surroundings. They may have served as some kind of ritual causeways in ancient times, though we’re still not entirely sure.
Beyond the official archaeological site stand three unexcavated yácatas in the nearby field which is now private property.
There’s also an unexcavated circular mound – possibly a yácata – at the south end of the main plaza. Archaeologists now call it the Observatory, perhaps because similar circular structures served this purpose at numerous Mayan sites.
While we still know little of the Tarascan Empire’s early history, some fascinating findings at Ihuatzio hint at an early Toltec influence. A Toltec-inspired chac mool sculpture was found at the ruins, as was common at most Toltec or Toltec-influenced sites (even as far away as Chichén Itzá!)
Be sure to check out these items during your visit to the National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City.
As with Tzintzuntzan, the tiny town of Ihuatzio also has a church that’s worth checking out. Returning to the main road and walking straight for a few minutes, you should encounter the Parroquia de San Francisco de Asis.
While the 16th-century church is beautiful in its own right, it’s perhaps most remarkable for the Purépecha-style motifs carved into its facade.
Additional Info
To reach the sites mentioned above from Morelia, you’ll first have to make your way to Morelia’s main bus terminal. While quite a distance from the city center, you can easily get there via Uber.
Getting to Tzintzuntzan is a little bit confusing, and as far as I know, there are no direct buses there. Therefore, you’ll have to transfer at a town called Quiroga. The buses there are run by a company called Autobuses de Occidente and should depart hourly.
I recommend downloading the Maps.me app in advance and marking the bus stop labeled ‘Bus Stop to Patzcuaro’ in your app. Tell the driver to let you off when you’re relatively close to that stop, and then head in that direction.
Once in the area, you should see combis (shared minivans) headed in the direction of Patzcuaro, and they will stop at Tzintzuntzan along the way.
When finished in Tzintzuntzan, simply wait along the main road for another combi bound for Ihuatzio. As with Tzintzuntzan, Ihuatzio is the name of both an archaeological site and a small town.
Also be sure to mark the Ihuatzio ruins location in your app in advance. The driver won’t take you all the way there, but he can drop you off at the nearest point along the main road. From there, it’s about a 15-20 minute walk to the ruins.
Back in town, after checking out the church, you can find a bus stop back near the main road – not far from where you got dropped off. Locals should be able to help if you’re unsure. Fortunately, there’s no need to transfer again and you should be able to catch a bus directly back to Morelia.
You can also catch a bus to Tzintzuntzan from Patzcuaro. But as there’s a lot to do in Patzcuaro, I don’t think there would be enough time to fit all three locations into the same day trip.
Alternatively, if all the transferring mentioned above sounds like a hassle and budget is not a concern, you could try a tour. This tour, for example, takes visitors to Tzintzuntzan, Ihuatzio and a third archaeological site called Tingambato.
Morelia is a large city with a gorgeous historical center. And the center is likely where most people will choose to stay.
One of the highest-rated high end hotels is NaNa Vida Hotel Morelia. A good mid-range option near the main attractions, meanwhile, is Vista Express Morelia.
Morelia also has plenty of budget options, like Casa Aura, or numerous places on Airbnb.
Considering how the city is also a good base for day trips (such as Tzintzuntzan and Patzcuaro), and how the bus station is quite a distance from the center, I opted to stay within walking distance of the station.
While being close to the station saved me a lot of time overall and I have no regrets, I wouldn’t recommend most travelers stay in that area.
Central Morelia is arguably one of the most beautiful cities in Mexico, but the city’s outskirts feel like another dimension. While I didn’t have any issues and everyone in the neighborhood I stayed in was friendly, ‘apocalyptic’ was the first word that came to mind as I explored the area.