Chalcatzingo is a remote and largely unknown site, and reaching it from Cuernavaca by public transport can be a challenge. But it is indeed possible, and if you’re a fan of Mesoamerican archaeology, the journey is well worth it.
While relatively straightforward, you’ll need to ride in no less than three separate vehicles on both the way there and back. The basic journey looks like this: Cuernavaca > Cuautla > Jonacatepec > Chalcatzingo. Now let’s break down each step in detail.
From Cuernavaca, you’ll first need to take a bus to Cuautla, the second-largest city in the state of Morelos. In my case, I went to the main market area, where the Estrella Roja company operates buses for this route.
While I’m not sure of the exact timetable, buses are supposed to leave frequently throughout the day. I arrived at the market at around 7:50 and the bus for Cuautla departed almost immediately.
While the two cities appear close on a map, the ride lasted a little over two hours due to the mountainous roads. At the time of my visit, a ticket cost $47 MXN. (You should also be able to catch a bus for Cuautla at the Pullman de Morelos station, but these buses will be more expensive and less frequent.)
Arriving in Cuautla, your next mission will be to find a colectivo (shared minivan) to the town of Jonacatepec. You can find these minivans right outside the station exit, and they will have ‘Axochiapan’ or ‘Tepalcingo’ written on the windows. The station has a few different exits, so keep trying if you don’t see the colectivo stop at first.
It would be a good idea to tell the driver in advance that you want to get off at Jonacatepec. And during the ride, keep your eye on your phone so you know to get off in the right town. The ride from Cuautla to Jonacatepec should take around 30 minutes and costs about 18 pesos.
Jonacatep just has one main road running through it. And it’s along this road that you’ll find a colectivo with Chalcatzingo written on it. The ride costs 10 pesos, and I’m under the impression that the driver simply rides back and forth between the two towns repeatedly, regardless of how many passengers (if any) are on board.
Chalcatzingo is also the name of a modern town, so you still have another step before reaching the ruins. You’ll be dropped off at the main square, from which it’s about a 20-minute walk to the ruins.
Getting back to Cuernavaca after your visit, repeat the same steps mentioned above in reverse. There are a few things to keep in mind, however, during your return to the city.
Back at the Chalcatzingo main square, you may not see a colectivo for Jonacatep anywhere in sight. But keep waiting and one should eventually appear within 10-15 minutes. Then wait along the same road for a Cuautla-bound vehicle.
Back in Cuautla, note that there are two different services run by the same Estrella Roja company departing from the same place. One of these buses is a nicer bus which leaves fairly infrequently (80 pesos), while the other is a cheaper bus (47 pesos) that leaves more often.
Confusingly, you’ll see two ticket vendors sitting right next to each other, but one vendor only sells tickets for one of these buses. Be sure to talk to both ticket vendors to confirm the soonest departure time.