Last Updated on: 5th August 2024, 02:39 pm
Felix Romuliana is one of the most overlooked yet significant Roman archaeological sites in the Balkans. Archaeologist Felix Philipp Kanitz, who studied the site in the 19th century, even called it one of the best-preserved Roman monuments in Europe. Yet due to its hard-to-reach location, not many visitors make it.
The site was originally a palace built for the mother of Emperor Galerius (305-311 AD), and it was also the place of his birth. Galerius himself would spend time here during his reign, and it’s also where he’d be entombed alongside his mother Romula.
In total, the site’s area covers around 40,000 m2 and it once would’ve been entirely covered in beautiful mosaics. As we’ll cover below, many of them are now on display at the nearby Zaječar National Museum.
Note that the site is also commonly referred to as Gamzigrad after the small town by the ruins, and both names are often used interchangeably. To avoid confusion, I’ll be sticking with the name Felix Romuliana throughout this guide.
The best way to reach the ruins is as a day trip from Niš, which you can learn more about at the end of the article.
The Zaječar National Museum
The ruins of Felix Romuliana are located just outside the small city of Zaječar. For those coming from Niš, you can first take a bus to Zaječar before hiring a taxi to the ruins (learn more below).
And while in Zaječar, be sure to visit the National Museum, where many of the major findings from Felix Romuliana are on display.
Among them are carved pilasters and ornate mosaics taken from the floor of the royal palace. One of the most impressive pieces is a colorful image of Dionysus from the 4th century AD.
Another important piece is a bust of Hercules, discovered at the Great Temple. You’ll also spot a perfectly intact labyrinth mosaic on the floor, along with fragments of a statue of Galerius himself holding a globe.
Additionally, the museum also contains an archivolt with the name ‘Felix Romuliana’ inscribed on it. Discovered in 1984, the finding finally proved beyond doubt that the ruins were indeed the former birthplace and palace of Galerius.
The museum also contains artifacts from later eras and from elsewhere throughout the region.
At the time of my visit, there was an impressive display of Orthodox icons taken from various churches of Yugoslavia, including Gračanica Monastery and others in Kotor, Sarajevo, Kratovo and Trebinje.
Additionally, you’ll also find ethnographic displays from Ottoman times.
WHo was Galerius?
Galerius was born in 258 AD in the Roman state of Dacia Ripensis, at the location we now call Felix Romuliana. Originally born into a peasant family, he gradually rose through the military ranks.
With the Roman Empire controlling a vast amount of territory, reigning emperor Diocletian implemented the Tetrarchy system in 293. This new system would have two senior emperors with the rank of Augustus ruling each half of the empire. And each Augustus would have a subordinate called a Caesar.
Not only was Galerius chosen to be Caesar alongside Constantius Chlorus, but he’d also marry one of Diocletian’s daughters. Ruling over the lands of Illyria, he led military campaigns around the Danube, while he also helped quell rebellions in Roman Egypt.
Interestingly enough, Galerius is depicted in a mural at Egypt’s Luxor Temple. Originally believed to be early Christian art, scholars later realized that rather than saints, the painting depicts the four leaders of the original Tetrarchy.
Galerius later had to fend off the invading Persian Sassanids in Roman Mesopotamia, where he’d be defeated by King Narseh around the region of Harran.
He later reinforced his troops and staged an attack on northern Mesopotamia via Armenia, with the Romans emerging victorious. Galerius would then conquer much of the lands in what now makes up eastern Turkey.
The Tigris River would mark the border between the Romans and the Sassanids, with the Romans taking land as far south as the Tur Abdin plateau. And according to the peace treaty, all trade between the two empires would be facilitated through Kartli, or the Kingdom of Georgia.
Another condition was that Tiridates III, who’d later become the first Christian king of Armenia, would receive much of his territory back.
When Diocletian abdicated the throne in 305, Galerius was promoted to the rank of Augustus, ruling alongside Constantius.
Galerius then elected his nephew Maximinus Daza and military comrade Severus as Caesers. Later, after his co-ruler Constantius died, his son Constantine (who was born in nearby Niš) suddenly took his place. But Galerius, fearful of Constantine’s influence, demoted Constantine to Caesar while promoting his friend Severus to be the new Augustus.
After Italy was taken by Galerius’s son-in-law Maxentius, Galerius sent Severus to take it back, but he was ultimately killed.
Maxentius was also the son of former Augustus Maximian, who’d abdicated the throne at the same time as Diocletian. But upon his son’s takeover of Italy, he once again became a co-emperor.
Galerius then tried to invade Italy himself but was unsuccessful. Attempting to make peace, his offers were refused, and even some of his own men were bribed to turn on him. Luckily for him, he managed to escape alive.
Amidst the chaos and confusion, Galerius, Maximian and Diocletian would hold a conference to work things out. Here it was declared that Galerius’s comrade Licinius would be Augustus of the West, with Constantine as his Caesar.
Galerius would stay on as Augustus of the East, and his Caesar was to remain his nephew Maximinus. Former Augustus Maximian was forced to retire yet again, and it was declared that his son Maxentius was a usurper.
Galerius would eventually die of disease in 311 in modern-day Sofia, Bulgaria. And following his death, his remains were moved back to Felix Romuliana, where he’d previously built a palace. He’s buried in a mound which overlooks the site right next to one for his mother Romula.
Exploring Felix Romuliana
Entering the ruins, about a 15-minute drive from Zaječar, you’ll first pass through the main gate which was surrounded by defensive towers. This is one of the most impressive and best-preserved sections of Felix Romuliana.
Why an Imperial palace needed to be fortified is something of a mystery. In fact, when archaeologists were first excavating the site, they believed for decades that it must’ve been a Roman military camp.
One of the bastions now serves as a lapidarium, housing some of the carvings and stone fragments found throughout the ruins. Most impressive are the arched entryways.
As mentioned above, also be sure to visit the Zaječar National Museum for the complete collection.
It’s also at the museum that you’ll find a 3D model of how Felix Romuliana may have looked. There’s yet another model on display at the site itself, though the one at the museum is more detailed.
Looking at either version, you’ll see how the entire site was once surrounded by defensive towers.
Moving forward, you’ll reach Galerius’s main palace area – or at least what’s left of it. Galerius began constructing the palace following his victory over the Sassanids (see above), and it would remain in use following his death.
It was eventually pillaged by the Huns in the 5th century but later restored by Justinian I in the Byzantine era. As such, you’ll also notice the remains of some churches from this period.
This is somewhat ironic, as Galerius long persecuted Christians throughout his reign. Eventually, however, he decided that the Christians ought to be left alone.
One of the most impressive sections of the palace is the central courtyard which measures out to around 23 x 15 meters. Its marble flooring remains intact, while many of its original columns have been re-erected.
The flooring throughout most of the palace would’ve been entirely decorated in ornate mosaics. One especially impressive geometric piece has been left intact at the ruins. The others, meanwhile, are now on display at the museum.
Today, the palace ruins largely appear as a labyrinth of brick foundations. But archaeologists have identified several different halls in the northwest area, along with an atrium and a crypt.
With a bit of imagination, you can picture how grandiose Felix Romuliana must’ve appeared in its prime.
The complex was also home to two temples: a small one and a bigger one. The small temple can be found in the northern part of Felix Romuliana, the platform of which remains in good condition.
Originally, however, it would’ve been completely covered over with a walled structure complete with columns in front of the entrance.
Built during the last decades of pagan Rome, it’s believed to have been a place for worship of the goddess Magna Mater, also known as Cybele, whose roots can be traced back to the Neolithic civilizations of Anatolia.
The Great Temple, meanwhile, is on the opposite side of the complex. It is indeed a much larger structure and best viewed from the hill behind it.
Discovered in the 1970s, it’s oriented east-west and features a double crypt in the basement – typical of the temples in East Rome at the time.
This temple also has a section dedicated to Magna Mater, in addition to one dedicated to Hercules, with whom Galerius was identified. Accordingly, as already mentioned, Felix Romuliana would serve as the final resting place of Galerius and his mother.
Only the temple crypt and podium remain, with the upper structure completely missing. Looking through the windows, one can see that the crypt is indeed filled with various items, though there doesn’t seem to be any way for visitors to enter.
Archaeologists discovered a statue of Hercules amongst the rubble here which can be seen on display at the museum (pictured above).
Not far away are the remains of ancient Roman baths, a highly important feature of Roman settlements. As was common, this bathhouse featured different rooms for both warm and hot water.
Roman bathhouses were generally public places where people of all classes could gather. While this surely would’ve been exclusive during the reign of Galerius, one wonders if the settlers who lived here following the Hun invasion made use of it.
Moving on, you’ll reach the East Gate. It also features well-preserved fortifications. And on your way back to the opposite side, be sure to turn around to take one last look.
On top of the hill in the distance, you’ll spot the two distinct burial mounds in which Galerius and his mother remain entombed to this day.
Additional Info
Despite its historical significance and having been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site, Felix Romuliana is seldom visited. This is largely due to its remote location in eastern Serbia, where few tourists venture.
Coming from Belgrade, your best option is to take a tour like this one. Otherwise, you’ll have to rent a car.
For those on a budget and doing more extensive travels throughout the country, the city of Niš is the best base for this day trip, with the journey involving a combination of public bus and private taxi.
You’ll first need to head to the city of Zaječar. I recommend taking the 9:00 bus from Niš, which arrives at Zaječar at 11:20.
From the bus terminal, walk to the Zaječar National Museum and see the artifacts there. You can then have a staff member at the museum call a taxi for you.
The staff member at the time of my visit was incredibly helpful, and the taxi driver himself was very polite as well.
I’m not exactly sure which company was called, but they utilized an interesting pricing system. For the return journey to the ruins, the cost was only about 1000 RSD. They then charged 500 RSD per hour of waiting time.
Therefore, my taxi journey ended up costing me less than the roundtrip bus fare from Niš!
When finished, simply head to the bus terminal and take a bus back to Niš. I recommend using the site polazak.com for updated timetables.
I stayed at a place called Apartmani Pinokio which was within walking distance of the fortress and most of the other significant locations in town.
I had my own room with a private bathroom and only paid around €12 per night including tax. As there’s no front desk, you’ll have to call someone to check in.
While the room has an air conditioner, there was no remote control to be found during my stay. I wanted to use it as a heater during an abnormally cold autumn week, but bundling up in the blankets worked well enough.
All in all, I’d recommend Apartmani Pinokio. But Niš is small enough that you should easily be able to find a conveniently located place. Checking on Airbnb, Niš also has some great values for monthly rentals.
Booking.com
A few buses for Niš leave from Belgrade every hour. The ride generally lasts about three hours and fifteen minutes. You can check the website polazak.com for updated timetables. There’s little need to purchase tickets in advance.
From the bus terminal, it only takes about 15 minutes or so to walk to the center of town.
Niš is also home to the Constantine the Great International Airport with direct flights to various European and Turkish destinations. Many of the routes only operate in summer, however.